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Thanks for the inputs!
Will work on my braking style at the track.
Will work on my braking style at the track.
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13Boss#3328 said:If I ended up keeping the Boss, I will need to change my strategy about consumable, since I am not racing, I would not need top of the line brake pads and rotors + fluids
I am looking for opinions regarding:
1) brake pads that are the same or slightly better than the OEM that can last longer than a typical race pads
2) brake fluid that does not need to be changed frequently but still DOT 4 or above
Other suggestions are welcome
Thanks
JScheier said:Man... so sorry. I've had rear brakes on my mind (just upgraded the rear of mine to GT500)... total brain fart on my part.
Braking technique is one of the hardest things to change. People are set in the way they do it, they get comfortable with it, and it's really hard to get it into their head from the passenger seat. What I usually do is go out for a session or two with a student and see what they are doing. If braking is something we need to work on, we hop in my car (I rarely drive a student's car) and I demonstrate what I want to see / have them try. It's hard to see someone's feet at work... so it's definitely a 'feel' type of learning. Honestly, I learned how to brake by driving a non-ABS car (actually, it was an 86GT that had ABS, but I could turn it off on the dash). Threshold braking gets you that 'feel' really quickly... or else you are out of tire money pretty quickly
You may be right on your driving style comment, but I still think those pads were operating way out of their effective range. Your technique may have contributed to that, but I'd go with a higher temp range pad for longevity... use them to work on your technique and you should be golden. You can always step back down a compound once you feel your braking is improved.
So, what do I teach? I want you on the brakes quickly, but smoothly with firm, not abrupt pressure (aka: Don't stab!). Student last weekend would stab the brakes so hard that I swear the rear tires were coming off the ground. That's not good.
The whole purpose of braking is to? Slow the car in preparation for a turn. You want to slow the car, but you also want to transfer weight to the front tires so that they can do their job more effectively. If you really hammer the brakes, you end up over-loading the front tires and unloading the rear. Makes it hard to turn and accelerate.
Smooth but purposeful onto the brakes, smooth and purposeful off the brakes. Same with the throttle.
I hope that helps. There are some good tutorials on-line, but again, without actually 'feeling' what it is the instructor wants, it can be difficult to pick up.
JScheier said:Man, another comedian
Lots of things can be contributing here:
1. if you use traction control (full or 'sport'), the system will absolutely eat your rear pads in no time at all. I had a student last weekend that ran TC the second day (when I wasn't in the car). Not only was he slower, he effectively ran the pads (OEM) down to the backing plates in 4 sessions. The rear rotors were blue and I'm willing to bet that the rubber seals on the calipers were probably shot as well
2. Take a look at the pads in the photo. How old were these? Note the paint / rust. I'm guessing this car doesn't sit out in the elements, and that the pads are fairly new (OP says 3 track days). Paint and rust is probably due to excess heat which would lead me to believe that either a) TC was on and killed the pads or b) they truly were out of their effective heat range and that roasted them.
3. the only other thing I can think of is that the pads (somehow) were not properly installed (ie: screwing in the pistons) and that lead to excessive dragging resulting in excessive heat.
Three track days out of a set of rear pads... that's just bad juju.
Senderofan said:Sorry for my bad....No harm intended...just want to point out that you are one of the talented drivers here....and we need to listen to your advice / experiences.
Take Care,
Wayne
13Boss#3328 said:If I ended up keeping the Boss, I will need to change my strategy about consumable, since I am not racing, I would not need top of the line brake pads and rotors + fluids
I am looking for opinions regarding:
1) brake pads that are the same or slightly better than the OEM that can last longer than a typical race pads
2) brake fluid that does not need to be changed frequently but still DOT 4 or above
Other suggestions are welcome
Thanks
*What other car has your interest that you would sell the Boss ?
*I use Carbotech 12 and 10 with motul 600 , brake ducts installed and dust shields off. Have 5 or 6 days on the pads and they have pad left.
13Boss#3328 said:For the whole 2013 track season I used the stock pads/rotors and they worked fine, nothing earth shattering but fine.
I am ok with another "fine" performance from the HPS if they can last like the stock ones.
Having said that, I was taking it really easy on the track last year compared to this year.
Worse comes to worse, I will leave the current setup for street and get myself some track pads/rotors
cosm3os said:That's a fine plan. You know why this hobby isn't cheap? Cause going faster costs more money and we aren't satisfied if we're not going faster! Most important thing is to have fun.
Fixed that for you.dabossinne said:As the proverbial saying in racing goes, "Speed costs money. How fast do ya wanna SPEND?"
further said:It's a big, heavy, high HP car that chews stuff up.