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Old thread, but I figured I'd post a little update.Ended up getting Maximum Motorsports caster- camber plates after speaking with Rehagen (great guys by the way). Very impressed with the quality! I just put them in the other day and they are just as quiet as the Steeda Heavy Duty mounts...
I understand the $$$ with it, but those cars are BS.I say BS because they get allowance to add modifications that the other cars can't just because they aren't actually sold in such a configuration. Tough shiznit!I dont pay attention to those cars when watching the races since they arent the...
Good to hear!I had mine sent back to Hypermotive for them to inspect and send back o GC. Hopefully I'll get a refund. I'll probably just go for Vorshlag when I decide to upgrade again.
1. First I've heard of this.
2. You should be able to get almost -2.0 camber with the Steeda plates.
3. I would suggest either getting an adjustable front bar or get a stock GT (24mm) or V6 (22mm). I run a 22mm bar.
4. No exerience with this.
The upper plastic ring with the cross-patterned-ish reinforcements stays stationary. The bearings are betwwen the ring ang the lower, rubber isolator (which has a hard plastic retainer as well). So, "modifying" the upper ring would only be required in the specific areas needed.
In my album, you'll see some pictures that have a metric scale held up to certain areas of the camber plate. The is room for a larger flage on the bolt. There is room for a thicker bracket. There is room for larger studs.
MT-82: Redline MTL or Amsoil SynchromeshRear Axle: Depends on your diff. Stock Boss Torsen or Trac-Lok: Motorcraft refill or Redline.You can purge the clutch by disconnecting the line or using a vacuume pump and fluid dump reservoir. To bleed, either pump the clutch until you feel...
Link above has the gallery. Here are some pictures more related to the issue I stated:Torque spec is 18 lb/ft, not 24 lb/ft. Threaded end pulled right out, starting at the thinner end, bending the bracket in the process due to uneven distribution of force. Also, the larger hole/slot...
Oh, to answer your question on camber and lowering: No, you can get away with the stock strut mounts. But I will say that upgrading from the stock mounts isn't a bad idea. Not a must do, though. When I went from stock to Steeda Heavy Duty mounts, I actually noticed a slight decrease in NVH.
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