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I need some help diagnosing a possibly related issue to the diff.The problem is when I abruptly steer the car back and forth (weave or slalom) there is an audible knock or clunk from under the car. If the right forces are generated, I can do... (see full post)
Could be, but the original arms were dead even. I will have to take some frame to ball joint measurements and see if the issue is the control arm. There is quite a bit of play on all the control arm bolts, it’s not exactly a precision fit. (see full post)
Well I pulled them both out, moving the ball joint forward. One problem off the bat, now the camber is definitely uneven. Drivers side has quite a bit of negative camber compared to the passenger side. It’s got to be around -3 or so drivers and... (see full post)
Replacing both lower control arms. I know technically there is not control arm alignment adjustment, but the rear mounting bracket has plenty of play. I will get an alignment, but would like to start at the best place.If I pull the rear...
Lot of good stuff there. Thanks.
I watched enough videos to know I didn’t want to get into overhauling the diff. I was not aware that just swapping the carrier with no gear changes is a possibility. It sounds about the same level of... (see full post)
Hold on a second here. Are you saying it’s possible to just swap out the oem diff without resetting the pinion depth and backlash? Just by using all the same parts, minus the diff? Are you saying to transfer the carrier bearings to the new... (see full post)
Appreciate this. Obviously not saying much but my car is the best handling solid rear axle car I have driven. What I mean by that, is the rear axle does a surprisingly good job of hooking up even with a near open diff. I am currently running... (see full post)
285 200TW is the plan. I am looking for more of a long wear kind of 200TW like maybe the GY SC3. I am not looking for a RE-71 type tire if that makes a difference.Paperweight is not very encouraging. (see full post)
Makes sense. I am not racing just HPDE, so I don't need absolute peak performance. Also, no auto-X, just open track. What I am trying to get a sense of is the functional performance of a 100% (new) trac-lok vs a torsen. Also, how long a... (see full post)
The limited slip in my 2011 GT is gone. Any lateral loading creates a one wheel peel. On the lift, spinning one wheel creates no movement in the other. Other trac-lok cars, both wheels spin the same direction. This car behaves like its full...
Tried to order H&R coilovers from tire rack. They quoted me about 3 weeks from Germany. A bit too long for me. I ordered koni sports instead and I already received them. I went with the gt500 style as I got a good deal on a steeda upper mount... (see full post)
Interesting…. What about the H&R street coils? 400/290 sounds more of a track setup then street. I like you would prefer adjustable RH, although I would also like adjustable damping. For my budget though, it’s one or the other. (see full post)
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