I have a 22 MACH 1 with the handling package looking to either have somebody build or just buy an outright built transmission that is super solid. My car is stock! Not even forced in induction of any sort or tunes or anything. The 10R80 transmission in my experience just seems to be a pile of excrement.
I daily my car also in weather above 45 degrees Fahrenheit or so.
I found nextGen diesel up there up in Pennsylvania. I wonder if they would be great or if they would even do a non-diesel.I’ve heard nothing but bad things about Monster transmissions. I hear good things about Midnight in Texas, but that’s a long ways to go for me and be. I get the impression it’s they’re really only for all out race cars.
I am in northern Virginia. Thank you.

I'm not sure anyone can fix the issues with the 10 speed trans for road racing. @flyhalf is the leading authority on these around here, and it seems like he got it figured out just in time for GM and Ford to make a bunch of changes to the trans that basically nullified all of his work. The only auto (or semi auto) trans I've seen work are theones we used on the Aston Martins back in 2020, and even on those we had to find some work arounds. I would've thought by now the MFGs would have built a road race automatic but they are involved into getting the street cars figured out and these trans have been problematic for them. I mean, imagine GM and Ford spending millions to ce design this trans and basically there are tons of issues with it.

Wife's '24 'vette has a DCT 8 speed in it. She, and every other C8 owner I know just puts the trans in auto mode and leaves it there.

Nicely positioned paddle shifters have never felt human touch. Such a shame.

My Mach1 sees a couple of track days a month. I’m on my second 10R80, but not because it failed. Both the first and new one seems to “burp” some transmission fluid out of the breather valve when driven hard. That’s what the dealer says is happening. They’ve replaces all of the seals on the second transmission and it hasn’t helped. I have a separate transmission temperature gauge (numeric vs what’s on the dash) and it seems that it heats up to about 210 at which point I assume the transmission cooler kicks on and takes the temperature to about 200 or just under. It holds there for a 20-25 minute session. This assumes the data from the OBD2 port is accurate. Ford claims it’s a heat issue, but it seems like the factory cooler works. Perhaps it needs to kick on sooner. I’ve been looking for someone that can build it stronger but have yet to find anyone. I’ve also been researching options for swapping out the 10R80 but it seems like I might be better off getting a different car.

Read @flyhalf posts, he is the only one I know of that has successfully tamed the slushbox for track use. Basically, you need mega cooling for the trans. Getting a different car won't help, if it's an automatic you're going to have trouble keeping it alive in a track setting. There is no free lunch with automatics.

Funny enough, Ford North America told the dealer to tell me to get a bigger cooler. That was after they removed the transmission for the second time (fortunately, and surprisingly, under warranty). They are apparently well aware it’s a heat issue. They can see how I’m driving the car and know full well it’s being used on a track. I’ve read all of @flyhalf’s posts, and it appears substantial modifications are required. I don’t know a shop that I trust to handle it correctly, and I’m not capable of doing it myself.

Taran Vair at Kozmic Transmissions in Houston built my old 10R80 for track use. Upgraded the clutches, fixed the C drum, added some VB tricks and parts for reliability and performance. Was on a 723whp centri build that I wanted to set up for road course work.

The cooling is paramount, but it isn't as crazy as you think. He will do the thermal bypass delete which helps keep temps down on the front end of a hard session but won't help keep absolute temps down. But really all you need to do is get a big setrab unit mounted up front, an improved racing thermostatic bypass valve, and power by the hour sells the A/N fitting conversion to attach everything to the trans. Probably be under a grand for all the cooling you would ever need, and maintains streetability.

Also Kozmic is very reasonably priced. I shipped him my trans from Delaware which was $400 total for both ways on a pallet. If I remember correctly, the full rebuild including fluid was under 3 grand. He's built a 10R60 for my 840whp Explorer ST, never had any problems with either trans he built me. Highly recommend. He probably has a 10R80 core laying around too, which would cut your down time to a single day for the swap.

Diceman - Good info for my next transmission, which will probably come soon enough (hahaha!!). I recently had an upgraded valve body kit (not full valve body) installed from NextGen Drivetrain, along with an aluminum transmission oil pan from PPE, and a thermal bypass valve from Coyote Direct. It's shifting well though I haven't been on the track with it yet. It takes a lot of street driving to move the need on the trans temps. I even tried temporarily covering the passenger side lower air intake to block airflow into the trans cooler until it warms up, and it still took quite a lot of driving to warm up. That's a trick @flyhalf wrote in one of his many posts on the topic.

Fyi everyone. I will have my transmission and double cooler set up out soon. (Some upgrading happening hopefully)
So if anyone wants a transmission with
500miles on it.
New VALVEBODY model on.
Suncoast tier 2 mod (extra and better clutches and rings)
Speeditalia thermostat bypass.
2 coolers (634+640 setrab)+lines with a improved racing 130f inline thermostat (otherwise is too cold)
And a CARBON FIBER DRIVESHAFT ALL IN FOR $4500

Well Let me know..
If all Goes well I might have it available soon.
Ale

Is the factory 2024 Dark Horse transmission cooling any better than the 2022 Mach 1 transmission cooling?

Mtnbikerva said:

I have a 22 MACH 1 with the handling package looking to either have somebody build or just buy an outright built transmission that is super solid. My car is stock! Not even forced in induction of any sort or tunes or anything. The 10R80 transmission in my experience just seems to be a pile of excrement.
I daily my car also in weather above 45 degrees Fahrenheit or so.
I found nextGen diesel up there up in Pennsylvania. I wonder if they would be great or if they would even do a non-diesel.I’ve heard nothing but bad things about Monster transmissions. I hear good things about Midnight in Texas, but that’s a long ways to go for me and be. I get the impression it’s they’re really only for all out race cars.
I am in northern Virginia. Thank you.

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What was wrong with the original, and what is wrong with the replacement Ford installed in February?