This is the Build Thread for Stock-ish. Reply below.

Back when I had my 2017 GT 350 I set it up similar to yours, though I had a bit sticker tires ( R8 Purple Crack Rubber ) ,haha. I also was running a set of G-Loc racing pads ( R18s in front and R10s in the rear ), but the car is very capable doing just the things you and I did. I did have my M&M Camber plates maxed out a bit more than you do, but I found them of good quality. I did go with Vorshlag ones on my Mustang after the GT 350 and I liked them even more - I go more range of adjustment.

@Bill Pemberton yeah your tires were just a bit sticker haha. I’m still on OEM pads for now, along with OEM solid (non-drilled) rotors. The alignment shop said -2 was nearly maxed out with the MM camber plates. Yeah I’ve heard Vorshlag Is the best, but they’re expensive. Also, this car only sees about 3-4 events a year, so I didn’t want to chew through the insides of my street tires with too much negative camber

Completely understand, there are many folks with M&M Camber plates and as I mentioned I had a set on my GT 350, and I forgot that I also had a set on my Boss 302 LS. If you are going to Road Atlanta do check those pads as you will be eating them up as you go faster.

@Bill Pemberton Do you remember the max negative front camber you got with the MM camber plates? And were you on lowering springs? At recent events at Road Atlanta, I feel less confident with the brakes into 10A (after the long back straight). I have 1 more new set of OEM pads to use and then I’ll decide if I need to switch to more aggressive brake pads for the track

I was able to get around -2.2 or - 2.3 up front , so not alot more and I had the rear at -1.75. Having run Road Atlanta a couple of times you definitely need brakes at 10A and I always kept my OEM pads for back up. You might contact OP Mustang and chat with Tim as he could sell you a set of G-Locs - make sure they are pre-bedded.

Maybe a question for Tim but could I run G-locs in the front and OEM pads in the rear? For the street/track, I would swap the front pads and rotors as I have 2 sets of front rotors. I would run OEM pads on the street so wouldn’t want to mix brake pads on the rear rotors

kevfrank said:

@Bill Pemberton yeah your tires were just a bit sticker haha. I’m still on OEM pads for now, along with OEM solid (non-drilled) rotors. The alignment shop said -2 was nearly maxed out with the MM camber plates. Yeah I’ve heard Vorshlag Is the best, but they’re expensive. Also, this car only sees about 3-4 events a year, so I didn’t want to chew through the insides of my street tires with too much negative camber

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I enjoyed your 1:40 Road Atlanta video. What is the camber on the rear wheels and tires? How many HPDE days did the Continental tires last?

Junkyard Dog said:

I enjoyed your 1:40 Road Atlanta video. What is the camber on the rear wheels and tires? How many HPDE days did the Continental tires last?

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Thanks for watching! Rear camber is -1.3. This is my first set of the Contis, but they have about 20 heat cycles and still going strong

kevfrank said:

Thanks for watching! Rear camber is -1.3. This is my first set of the Contis, but they have about 20 heat cycles and still going strong

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Is 20 heat cycles like 20 sessions, so maybe 4 HPDE days of 5 sessions each?

Junkyard Dog said:

Is 20 heat cycles like 20 sessions, so maybe 4 HPDE days of 5 sessions each?

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Yeah, 20 sessions and all sessions were during HPDE. The number of sessions I do during an HPDE aren’t always consistent, so it’s better to keep track of heat cycles. Also, each session was between 15 and 25 minutes (depending on organization and how late I got out lol)