Hey guys so.i just bought a 2014 .mustang and im having problems getting g the car . Any ideas maybe a leaky slave cylinder?

If it goes in gear easily when not running but has problems running the slave cylinder is a good starting point.

DarrylS76 said:

Hey guys so.i just bought a 2014 .mustang and im having problems getting g the car . Any ideas maybe a leaky slave cylinder?

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Who's, "g"? Maybe she's just to big to fit...

I’m getting a déjà vu vibe ;-)

I just got it back from. the shop . They did a bleed of the air in the slave cylinder ut said I might want to ultimately replace it

Man i just don't get it . We bled the master cylinder and it was ok for a day or two but now back to the same problem. So now the mechanic wants to flush the brake fluid out. The guy i bought the car from is not answering me go figure so i can't ask any questions. Instead of 1k to replace the master cylinder which is what the shop wants i think id be better off just putting a mcleod or other race clutch since I plan on tracking the car and let him.do the new cylinder while their In there as well . What do you think ?

EF1 said:

If it goes in gear easily when not running but has problems running the slave cylinder is a good starting point.

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Not sure how they bleed the system. Is the TOB stock?

If they are doing the suggested 50-100 pumps of the pedal to bleed the system, that may be your problem. Apply vacuum to the reservoir when bleeding/pumping worked for me.

DarrylS76 said:

Man i just don't get it . We bled the master cylinder and it was ok for a day or two but now back to the same problem. So now the mechanic wants to flush the brake fluid out. The guy i bought the car from is not answering me go figure so i can't ask any questions. Instead of 1k to replace the master cylinder which is what the shop wants i think id be better off just putting a mcleod or other race clutch since I plan on tracking the car and let him.do the new cylinder while their In there as well . What do you think ?

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Replacing the clutch if the master or slave cylinder is bad will not fix your problem. If the trans has to come out for a clutch replacement it is wise to replace the slave cylinder. It is the cheaper part and more likely to go bad. If the slave goes bad it leaks. I have not had a bad master cylinder yet so I don’t know the symptoms or how hard it is to change one on these cars.

TMSBOSS said:

Not sure how they bleed the system. Is the TOB stock?

If they are doing the suggested 50-100 pumps of the pedal to bleed the system, that may be your problem. Apply vacuum to the reservoir when bleeding/pumping worked for me.

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Thanks man. So i tried pumping the clutch about 30 times are you saying I should.pump the brake pedal instead?

In the OEM configuration, the clutch is fed brake fluid from the brake master reservoir and doesn't have its own reservoir. The often-suggested way to bleed the clutch (given that there's no bleed valve on the system) is to actuate the clutch pedal in a smooth medium-pace until your leg gets tired. The dealer technicians can't sit there doing this, so the suggested service book procedure is:
Using a rubber stopper, hose, and a handheld vacuum pump (mityvac or similar) - apply 15-20 inHg of vacuum to the brake master reservoir. Hold vacuum for one minute and then quickly relieve vacuum.
Remove vacuum system, confirm proper FILL mark level, cap reservoir.
Actuate clutch 10-12 times in a smooth medium-pace motion.

It also suggests that you may have to do this procedure two more times or until the clutch pedal effort is consistent and the top of the pedal travel has a positive feel (not weak). Alternatively, you can leave the vacuum on the reservoir for a longer period of time (though potentially at the lower end of the threshold, like 15 inHg). If you had a modified divorced system with a discrete clutch reservoir (as some people here have done), you would do this procedure on the clutch reservoir.

If this procedure fails, something in the system is allowing air into the system, whether it be a damaged TOB, clutch feed line, or clutch master. In most cases, it's the TOB. If the car has been run hard with aftermarket headers that get close to the nylon (plastic) clutch feed line, I'd check that for melting/obstruction too.

DarrylS76 said:

Thanks man. So i tried pumping the clutch about 30 times are you saying I should.pump the brake pedal instead?

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Before pumping the clutch pedal to bleed the TOB, first apply vacuum to the master cylinder reservoir. I use a simple hand pump, mityvac. I found a rubber plug that fit the opening drilled a hole through it and stuck it in the opening. Pull a vacuum and then see if it pulls air out of the system.
30 pumps of the clutch? That’s just a start.

TMSBOSS said:

Before pumping the clutch pedal to bleed the TOB, first apply vacuum to the master cylinder reservoir. I use a simple hand pump, mityvac. I found a rubber plug that fit the opening drilled a hole through it and stuck it in the opening. Pull a vacuum and then see if it pulls air out of the system.
30 pumps of the clutch? That’s just a start.

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Hey thanks so much I showed my mechanic this post and a few of the others I have it at the shop now, and I just got a phone call and they asked me if anything new has happened.Because the mechanic just went out there to start working on it.And said that the clutch was all the way to the floor. Man I hope this isn't just going to be a continuous thing . Its weird because when I first went to get it I was stuck at the gas station so I went back to mechanic I actually bought it from and I told him that I was stuck at the gas station. Because I couldn't start it. And apparently it was a relay, so they switched it.
And then now this issue with the transmission I don't know .

DarrylS76 said:

Hey thanks so much I showed my mechanic this post and a few of the others I have it at the shop now, and I just got a phone call and they asked me if anything new has happened.Because the mechanic just went out there to start working on it.And said that the clutch was all the way to the floor. Man I hope this isn't just going to be a continuous thing . Its weird because when I first went to get it I was stuck at the gas station so I went back to mechanic I actually bought it from and I told him that I was stuck at the gas station. Because I couldn't start it. And apparently it was a relay, so they switched it.
And then now this issue with the transmission I don't know .

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replace slave cylinder since this is a trans out job buy a clutch as well. I went through that with my S550 Mustang in 2021. Bought Exedy Pro-Kit that come with slave cylinder and is an ultra cheap option. Works great now. I'm now having a different issue with brake fluid cap leaking fluid.

1.st get a braided mc cloud line that comes with the bleeder valve.
2. Install a second resinous just for the clutch
3. While tranny is out get new clutch pressure plate and the performance throw out bearing from Mc cloud or other.
4. Flush all clutch fluid and go with dot 5 or the German colored brake fluid it’s gold or blue so when you bleed you know when your fresh fluid is there.

race4food said:

Install a second resinous

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reservoir (yeah, stupid auto-correct, right?)

race4food said:

go with dot 5 or the German colored brake fluid it’s gold or blue

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Not DOT 5 - that's silicone-based (doesn't absorb moisture) and should never be used. It was for museums that didn't want to flush brake fluid ever. They found that moisture still got into the brake lines, but because the silicone didn't absorb it, it settled in the lowest point and rusted through the line there.

What you want is good-quality DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 brake fluid. Also, you probably can't get blue brake fluid in the US. The US DOT sent a cease & desist order to ATE for selling their blue fluid several years ago. Yes, there's a federal standard for brake fluid color (FMVSS says it needs to be clear or amber).

If going to a non-factory clutch, consider getting a clutch pedal stop to prevent over-extension of the throwout bearing in the future. Maximum Motorsports has one designed for their Tilton kit, but it could work with others. Or you can use their design to DIY.

If you're going to drop the trans, read through the recommendations in this thread. https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/recommendations-while-the-transmission-is-out.21130/

EF1 said:

If it goes in gear easily when not running but has problems running the slave cylinder is a good starting point.

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I replaced the flywheel and clutch and it drove great for a month now its back to being stuck in gear agian

DarrylS76 said:

I replaced the flywheel and clutch and it drove great for a month now its back to being stuck in gear agian

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At that point Brakes Master and Clutch master cylinders (in the clutch pedal) are to blame. I would replace the Brakes Master if you didn't already did that and check for brake fluid under the clutch pedal (the sign of a failed clutch master) but more often than not is the Brakes Master.

Whats strange is that I can get it in gear with the engine off.Start it in second and drive around, and it will shift.But I can't get it in reverse with the engine running

DarrylS76 said:

Whats strange is that I can get it in gear with the engine off.Start it in second and drive around, and it will shift.But I can't get it in reverse with the engine running

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Engine off shifting does not need a clutch to release. Sounds like you have a hydraulic problem. TOB is most common. Was the new unit correct for the car, installed correctly? If it was made/installed short and the clutch was pushed to the floor, the TOB could have been damaged. That being said, I had a similar issue, would not shift at speed, "sometimes" and it turned out being the master cylinder. I changed both over a weekend. Lots of Fun!!!

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