Dave_W said:

Smooth is fast.

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I like Fast is smooth. Smooth first can be slow many times. Ask me how I know.

This is an awesome build thread. Lots of good info and a great car.....

Dave_W said:

This. Always. Even in low-power cars. IMHO, if you can stomp the gas pedal to the floor on corner exit, you're getting on the throttle too late, you're not carrying enough speed mid-corner, and/or you've got too much understeer built in (at least in a RWD car). As a novice, if you're developing muscle memory of stomping on the gas, you'll just have to spend time to unlearn it later. Try to smoothly feed in throttle as you unwind the steering wheel on corner exit, so you're at WOT when the wheel is straight. As an example, concentrate on watching the steering wheel angle while listening to the engine note in the video above.

Smooth is fast.

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Dave_W,

Thanks. I get it, but, well, I am a novice.

My instructor's most common instruction to me was "gentle, gentle" when exiting turns (from the apex, out). I thought I was being gentle, but I did my best to listen. Only once did he speak sternly. During the beginning of an afternoon session leaving the pits at Road Atlanta turn 1 is uphill, very wide, and sweeping. Once I was on track, I went up it pretty hard, once rolling above the speed that I thought the tires would break loose, basically all 500 horsepower.

He said something like, "Just so you know, you can get away with that because it is a summer afternoon and the tires are still hot. If you come out like that on cold tires you are going to leave the track."

I felt that the sternness was uncalled for because the car stuck to the track just fine - the Pirellis were still hot and sticky, but I kept my mouth shut, nodded, and left a little easier the next session out.

I am a good student, even if I am an inexperienced novice. And the instructor was excellent. I only hope I get one as good next time.

Jered_402 said:

Quick rundown of the turbo kit. This is a kit I designed and built. Only thing I don’t do is the very last tig welding. I have some very skilled welder friends that do it a lot better than I can.

Kit consists of twin precision 6466 Gen 2s, bell intercooler, turbosmart goodies, Bell Intercooler. Been absolutely flawless for 4-5 years now and installed on two cars. First one was totaled out after my mother drove through my garage door.
Kit can make 1026whp at 17psi, but there will never be used on the track.



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How different is your custom kit from the Hellion twin turbo kit for S650s?

I ask for a few reasons. (1) the design looks "similar," (2) the turbo size is similar, and (3) making a custom kit is outside of my capabilities, so if I decide to go this route it will have to be something like Hellion rather than me fabricating a system.

Junkyard Dog said:

I felt that the sternness was uncalled for because the car stuck to the track just fine - the Pirellis were still hot and sticky, but I kept my mouth shut, nodded, and left a little easier the next session out.

I am a good student, even if I am an inexperienced novice. And the instructor was excellent. I only hope I get one as good next time.

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Don’t worry cold tires WILL put you exactly where they want you to be eventually.

Junkyard Dog said:

How different is your custom kit from the Hellion twin turbo kit for S650s?

I ask for a few reasons. (1) the design looks "similar," (2) the turbo size is similar, and (3) making a custom kit is outside of my capabilities, so if I decide to go this route it will have to be something like Hellion rather than me fabricating a system.

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Similar for sure. I could probably get technical on some things here but no need.

Because I have to say it, horsepower is one of the last things that makes a car quick around a track. So don’t go chasing that just yet. We have a 300hp car that’s 2 seconds quicker than this Mustang.

Jered_402 said:

I could probably get technical on some things

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Get technical......

Amazing thread looks like you know your way around a Mustang. The Twin Turbo route is interesting. Any mods to the engine or with so little HP you think no need to open and build the engine ? Also loved that you switched the ABS. It's known limitation that the factory ABS don't like more than 1.22G of braking. Same goes for the S650 Dark Horse ABS so going to a full on Bosch M4/M5 is the only viable though not cheap option. Is your ABS works with the factory ECU or do you switched to an aftermarket ECU ?

bnight said:

Amazing thread looks like you know your way around a Mustang. The Twin Turbo route is interesting. Any mods to the engine or with so little HP you think no need to open and build the engine ?

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Standard stuff. Oil pump gears and crank sprocket but I do those on every coyote I own boosted or not. I don’t have any plans to open up the engine anytime soon. Once grip increases and we are actually full throttle more I will look into it.
Maintenance will be key, specially valve springs etc.

bnight said:

Also loved that you switched the ABS. It's known limitation that the factory ABS don't like more than 1.22G of braking. Same goes for the S650 Dark Horse ABS so going to a full on Bosch M4/M5 is the only viable though not cheap option. Is your ABS works with the factory ECU or do you switched to an aftermarket ECU ?

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We run the abs as a stand alone unit, it won’t be wired into any of the factory harness. For now the factory ecu is staying. Don’t foresee any real issues with the factory abs unplugged and removed. But we will cross that bridge when the time comes. Worse case throw a control pack ecu in it. Or stand alone.

Jered_402 said:

Standard stuff. Oil pump gears and crank sprocket but I do those on every coyote I own boosted or not. I don’t have any plans to open up the engine anytime soon. Once grip increases and we are actually full throttle more I will look into it.
Maintenance will be key, specially valve springs etc.



We run the abs as a stand alone unit, it won’t be wired into any of the factory harness. For now the factory ecu is staying. Don’t foresee any real issues with the factory abs unplugged and removed. But we will cross that bridge when the time comes. Worse case throw a control pack ecu in it. Or stand alone.

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If "I have no idea" is the answer, I understand, but I was wondering if you could discuss the oil ring gap. Stock on these engines is very tight. I notice on the "boosted" short blocks on the market not only do they lower the compression, but they open up the ring gap significantly.

On the drag strip, it obviously does not matter much, and the same goes for the street with an occasional full throttle short blast.

What are your opinions on boost for extended periods on track, where the coolant and oil are already hot and getting hotter? How long until that stock oil ring gap disappears as the rings expand?

Does it matter only with really high boost?

I do not know the answers to any of these questions, so I am not setting you up so that I can pounce with all of my superior knowledge. These are things I am truly curious about, and I figure you either know, because of your intended goal here, or you are at least wondering about them, too.

Junkyard Dog said:

If "I have no idea" is the answer, I understand, but I was wondering if you could discuss the oil ring gap. Stock on these engines is very tight. I notice on the "boosted" short blocks on the market not only do they lower the compression, but they open up the ring gap significantly.

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Generally speaking the high hp straight line guys are also ditching the oil squirters and don't have near the cooling capacity or airflow needed to sustain any real power over time. So seeing much higher temps is acceptable for that short of time, so opening up ring gap makes sense in those cases. With that if you are buying a built coyote, you're not planning on making 700hp, the plan will be to make double that at least. Since factory cars now come with 700-800hp from the factory with a warranty without being "loose".

Junkyard Dog said:

In the drag strip, it obviously does not matter much, and the same goes for the street with an occasional full throttle short blast.

What are your opinions on boost for extended periods on track, where the coolant and oil are already hot and getting hotter? How long until that stock oil ring gap disappears as the rings expand?

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This car isn't going to be a great example of this. Yes our cooling system, oil and water, will be beefed up, but we don't plan to do any extended sessions with it or endurance type stuff. But the goal is always to get a cooling system to get to a point and sit. If its getting hotter and hotter, its not up to the task. My wheel to wheel car could go a full tank of fuel and not even get over 220 cylinder temp. Factory ecu shuts you down at 260. I simply don't see ring gap being an issue with a car that is only wot for a few seconds before we brake, turn, roll on the throttle.

Junkyard Dog said:

Does it matter only with really high boost?

I do not know the answers to any of these questions, so I am not setting you up so that I can pounce with all of my superior knowledge. These are things I am truly curious about, and I figure you either know, because of your intended goal here, or you are at least wondering about them, too.

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Ok, thank you. I am pretty eager to see the results of your car on track.

Unfortunately haven’t had much time out in the garage. But did get some tires to try. Thinking about trying the ao52 since I have 23 sticker. Might keep some track attack pro scrubs around to try.

Pulled the entire dash out. Stripped everything we won’t need. All air bags removed, trimmed as much as possible. Again we are keeping every creature comfort possible. But stripping everything else. No radio. But keeping all the hvac, a/c Etc.

Decided to pick up an aim pdm32 after finding a great deal on a never installed pdm32 and 10 inch dash. I am keeping the factory dash for now, but need telemetry. Picked aim as their data is pretty well accepted without going the much more expensive routes. Don’t need the pdm but I feel the value in the pdms vs the standalone logging dashes justifies going with a pdm over their dashes.


Only thing I will not have is a radio so decided to use that space for the aim dash.







Going to 3d print the mounting bracket.





Final is printed out of ASA Carbon Fiber. I will glue it to the front bezel and have some mounting hardware for the back panel of the bezel.

Ordered a track spec cage back in December, finally received it last week. 14 weeks on a 2-4 week original quote. Really set me back quite a bit, hopefully get it welded in here in the next week or so. Haven’t touched much since then. But once it’s in a painted I can get rocking back on the car.



Had them weld up the main hoop.



A little more whipped than I like. But it’s fine. Wish we can just get back to normal MiG welding.

Went ahead and ordered some cortex MCS doubles with reservoirs for the car with the offset struts and coilover rear.

Drew up some brackets to relocate the front sway bar mount off the strut and locate it on the lower control arm. Wont use all the holes but gives us plenty of adjustment and strength.

How is the progress lately?

Junkyard Dog said:

How is the progress lately?

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Terrible actually. Just about every part had been delayed one way or another. Cage was 14 weeks late from track spec, MCS coilovers from cortex will be 8 weeks by the time they show up. But once they do I can get the car over to the welder for the cage install. Then I can get rocking on it.


I did get one of the wing mounts lined out. Going to try a couple different mounting points as well and a couple different uprights

These will be the high and flush with the rear of the car.








Then I will get these cut out. These uprights will be 2” lower and 10” back.




I will send these over to the water jet this week.