2022 Mach 1 w/HP 10R80 stock engine and transmission at this point. I change the Mercon ULV transmission fluid every 5000 miles and I can’t get my transmissionS to last past 10,000 miles.
I daily drive and do HPDE in my car.

I’M TRYING TO DECIDE IF I IS WORTH IT TO TRY A BUILT 10R80 TRANSMISSION OR GO TO THE TREMEC TR 3160 OR SOME OTHER OPTION.

Longevity of the transmission is VERY IMPORTANT!
Thoughts and wisdom?
One friend suggested buying a wrecked MACH 1 with the manual and swap the transmission etc.
I also saw something about a sequential transmission.
A acquaintance highly recommends KOSMIC in Texas.
I have heard good things about MIDNIGHT in Texas.
A place in Tennessee was recommended.
A number of people said to stay away from MONSTER.
Thank you.

Wow, 10,000 miles? What is happening to it? What is breaking? How have your transmission fluid temperatures been? Did Ford replace several under warranty when it was new?

The 3160 is very good, but they're a bit weaker than a T56 Magnum. That's usually the go-to for Road Course work.

Or you can really have some fun and go with a sequential

Before you do anything get in touch with @flyhalf , he's the resident expert on those

As mentioned in the other forum. What is that is failing?

Mtnbikerva said:

View attachment 110327

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Ok so main issue was a clutch.
Ok. Here's what I would do.
Stage 2 suncoast 10r80 kit. Increase number of clutches and upgrade them too.
I would change the body valve to a -D part number. The -D is the latest ford valvebody.
Also. I would add a thermostat bypass pass. U can get it at SPEEDITALIARACING.COM
As fluid. I would use VALVOLINE ULV. (has better addictive package than motorcraft)
Add a alluminium pan PPE to better and easier do a fluid change.
Be sure to check levels when engine is on. Be around the "5" on the level gauge.

flyhalf said:

Ok so main issue was a clutch.
Ok. Here's what I would do.
Stage 2 suncoast 10r80 kit. Increase number of clutches and upgrade them too.
I would change the body valve to a -D part number. The -D is the latest ford valvebody.
Also. I would add a thermostat bypass pass. U can get it at SPEEDITALIARACING.COM
As fluid. I would use VALVOLINE ULV. (has better addictive package than motorcraft)
Add a alluminium pan PPE to better and easier do a fluid change.
Be sure to check levels when engine is on. Be around the "5" on the level gauge.

Click to expand...

I put the PPE trans pan 5k miles ago. It is stupid that Ford put a plastic pan on it with no drain plug!
And no way to tell the fluid level other than putting the car up in the air and sliding your hand next to a possibly super hot exhaust.
And the PPE pan also comes with a magnetic drain plug!
Aluminum transfers, heat better, and cooling fins.

flyhalf said:

Ok so main issue was a clutch.
Ok. Here's what I would do.
Stage 2 suncoast 10r80 kit. Increase number of clutches and upgrade them too.
I would change the body valve to a -D part number. The -D is the latest ford valvebody.
Also. I would add a thermostat bypass pass. U can get it at SPEEDITALIARACING.COM
As fluid. I would use VALVOLINE ULV. (has better addictive package than motorcraft)
Add a alluminium pan PPE to better and easier do a fluid change.
Be sure to check levels when engine is on. Be around the "5" on the level gauge.

Click to expand...

Does the D valve body use higher quality, materials and manufacturing?
I don’t remember if I asked you before but how many miles did you get out of your stock 10R80? and how many miles did you get out of your better built 10R80? Did you find the need to upgrade any other parts?
Any parts or brands/models that you thought were a waste of money and time?
Thank you.

Mtnbikerva said:

Does the D valve body use higher quality, materials and manufacturing?
I don’t remember if I asked you before but how many miles did you get out of your stock 10R80? and how many miles did you get out of your better built 10R80? Did you find the need to upgrade any other parts?
Any parts or brands/models that you thought were a waste of money and time?
Thank you.

Click to expand...

They changed some of the known problems including different springs.
What temps are u seeing on the track?
When u on track do you feel the shifting being erratic?
The alluminium pan does not cool down on track. And yes to check you go under the car while is on. The advice is tighten the fill cap by hand. So u can easily removed when c a r is on. Use the remote starting to turn it off and on everytime u need to add fluid. I would add bunch of fluid to start with( when cold) , and remove from the below plug until reaching the precise mark u need
Dont keep the trans overfilled.
If u install the thermostat bypass the process is easy cause u are opened to the cooler and circulate fluid.
Last one (I sold it ) has 1200miles with zero issues with the above mods. I do have 2 coolers but is for track use only.

It never gets hot. I ran the 3 gauge’s in the dash/electronic cluster and I never saw it get close to red. Engine, differential and transmission temps. Didn’t pay attention to numbers.
I switched display between temps and tire pressure.
On or off track it can be erratic.