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How much wheel runout is too much for track wheel?

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63
40
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Indy 46038
I hit the leading edge of a track edge curb at ~80mph Sunday. I watched my dashcam video to see what happened.
Then I used the HF dial indicator to measure all my rim runouts. The LF was worst at over 0.200". So yeah, I need to get that rim repaired.

But here are the other three rims:
0.010" (obviously good)
0.040"
0.080"

In the past I had a couple wheels repaired at the repair shop and they came back under 0.020", which is the desired spec.

At $175 repair cost per wheel, can't I get by with the 0.040"? What about the 0.080" rim?

Pic for attention. But note that I also went under the car and measured the rims at the inboard side of the barrel. That is where these posted numbers were taken.

20260915_101301.jpg
 
Wheels....if they are forged wheels you can grab a large ball peen hammer and a 4x4 piece of wood and work them back closer to spec. You can probably do that with factory cast wheels as well but not aftermarket ones. Seriously don't think you'd notice less than a 1/4 nch of runout.
 
Very interesting reply, thanks!

These are Apex SM10, 19x11, with roller forged barrels.
Here are the runouts (thousandths) as provided by the repair specialist:
210 (Obviously the hard hit wheel)
080
050
040

The repair tech does not want to fix the wheel with their heating process because he worries it may crack.

I called and talked to Apex and the tech also said don't worry about the other 3 wheels. They have a new, but blemished wheel listed on their spreadsheet for ~$300 so I may go that route.

As for the wood blocks and BFH technique, I think recall having some success on a bicycle wheel. I suppose it's worth a try before I order a replacement. Should I support the inboard rim with two blocks of wood on either side of the high area and then whack a third block at the center?
 
As for noticing a vibration - yes, the steering wheel vibrated on the drive home. Hit was to the left front wheel.
 
Very interesting reply, thanks!

These are Apex SM10, 19x11, with roller forged barrels.
Here are the runouts (thousandths) as provided by the repair specialist:
210 (Obviously the hard hit wheel)
080
050
040

The repair tech does not want to fix the wheel with their heating process because he worries it may crack.

I called and talked to Apex and the tech also said don't worry about the other 3 wheels. They have a new, but blemished wheel listed on their spreadsheet for ~$300 so I may go that route.

As for the wood blocks and BFH technique, I think recall having some success on a bicycle wheel. I suppose it's worth a try before I order a replacement. Should I support the inboard rim with two blocks of wood on either side of the high area and then whack a third block at the center?
Usually the bend is on the barrel of the wheel, I just lay them on an old piece of carpet, face down, and hit from the inside. If the bend is on the outside ( the supported side) then it gets a bit more complicated, your method might be worth a try.
 
If you go to tireguymafia on Instagram and cruise around there are several videos where the wheel is mounted to a spindle, then a steel wheel is rotated around inside it, to fix the dent. There's also some with welding, but I'd buy a new wheel at that point. I've straightened wheels good enough to run Gt4 at Daytona with the hammer nethod so...
 
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