The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!
DriversSide.jpeg

SN95 ST5/TT5 Build Thread Profile - SN95 Mustangs

2003 GT

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

It's been a minute, lol. The concept behind this build was to try and shoehorn a Mustang into the NASA TT/ST5 class (14.5:1 power to weight ratio). Originally, I was debating working with an S197 3v into TT/ST4, but since the SN95 platform was my first and second Mustangs, I went this route. So after ignoring almost everyone's suggestion to go S197, I found a blown motor 03 GT. Bought an all-aluminum 02-05 Explorer motor and PI intake (Rest in Piece PI Intake), and swapped it in. Also put an aluminum flywheel, A/C delete, Steeda pulleys and long tube headers while I was at it. Had my aluminum drive shaft explode its universal joint so the stock shaft went back on. Sitting on SVE 10th Anniversary wheels (17x10) with 255 something or other tires to fit the TT5 tire width rules. Still have not decided on running Maxxis RC1 or Toyo RR tires. Will be running either a V6 hood or the stock hood with the hood louvers installed.

Suspension wise I am playing a game of how much can I get away with not doing so I can keep my power to weight ration as solid as possible. Forgoing the panhard bar/torque arm for the four link with spherical bushings. Maximum Motorsports Road Race lowers and stock uppers as I can replace one arm per corner and not take any point hits. Then band aiding the front with Steeda full comp front springs and X2 ball joints to try and keep the roll center a little higher and prevent as much dive as possible. Still open to the idea of going with from coil overs and MM forward offset control arms. A full cage will keep me from taking more points if I wanted to add subframe connectors. Aero wise, I have not come to a decision. I may take the extra .4 and stay base trim aero, or give it back and run an air damn and some typer of wing/spoiler. Really depends on my final weight with cage and HP. As it works out with the points system, if I weight 3200lbs race weight, I can have 264 HP. We will see.

The original weight (without battery, valve covers, fuel, oil or coolant) was 3249lbs. After the motor swap, ac delete, aluminum fly wheel, headers, most interior gut (except for the dash/ac/radio/Mach 46/etc) and adding a battery, 5 gallons of fuel, oil, etc, it is sitting at 2902lbs (without driver). Still have to swap to Cobra front brakes, finish gutting and install the cage, but I feel confident in this project so far.
Weight After.jpgNew Wheels.jpgWeight Before.jpgMotor Install.jpg
 
Got a little motivation from watching Riner's video on dash weight so I decided to pull the climate box/stereo/misc out. That's another 92lbs out of the car plus whatever the front bumper bar did. It will eventually get a fab'd up dash once the cage goes in so I didn't spend any time cutting any of the dash structure apart. But damn, that thing is heavy! Race weight I am aiming for 3100lbs. On a quick test drive around the "test track" at my work, she is feeling flat and very rotatey.
climate box  padding.jpgmach460 spoiler.jpgpass airbag vents glovebox.jpgstereo speakers.jpggutted dash.jpgcar 20250419.jpg
 
Ye olde rule of Thumb states , " For every hundred lbs. of weight removed gains you 1 second a lap on a 2 mile track." I would say you are on your way to faster and faster. Cool post with the weights shown!
 
Ye olde rule of Thumb states , " For every hundred lbs. of weight removed gains you 1 second a lap on a 2 mile track." I would say you are on your way to faster and faster. Cool post with the weights shown!
After running Spec Miata for two years, I'm trying to embrace the low power of the 2v and focus on momentum.
 
There are a couple fiberglass dash options around $500 if you want to eject all the factory plastic dash stuff. Looks a bit drag-racey but probably weighs nothing.


 
There are a couple fiberglass dash options around $500 if you want to eject all the factory plastic dash stuff. Looks a bit drag-racey but probably weighs nothing.


I am hoping to fab a sheet metal dash up once the cage is in. This weight removal was a "hold me over" until then.
 
I’m curious on this build. I’ve been considering this exact idea for an ST5 build as well. It seems like the low power but good torque could make for a good option. Have you managed to drive it on track yet?
 
Top