Soo, current plan is to swap a GT350 drivetrain and computer into my GT chassis. I've paid for the 350 parts with 35k miles on them, so we're committed. No Centrifugal, going to stay NA for a while.

I'm looking at doing a Predator oil pan/pump/gears, but I heard maybe they have issues breaking the oil pickup when paired with a voodoo? Is that true? Are boundary gears better than the Ford Performance predator pan gears?

Front cover will be off for the oil pump.. liTuning tensioner chain guides? Any timing chain stuff worthwhile?

Someone mentioned oil balancing lines.

Bellhousing braces? Plastic Intake manifold porting? Sounds like headers are minimal gains.

Planning on a an MGW shifter for the Tremec (not technically a reliability mod)

What else should be on my radar to R&R, install, or check while we have it out of the car?

Since the front cover is off, consider switching to the 350r cam phasers. I had issues with my non R in hot weather throwing cam timing codes - the R phasers have less hydraulic leakage. There is an FP kit with chains etc. that includes them.

Calling @honeybadger...

It's tempting to suggest that you do install the Predator oil pan, etc, but include a Predator 5.2 liter cross-plane crank while the bottom end is open. It'll work with your existing wiring harness and ECU and you won't have to worry about the Voodoo-vibration turning every non-Voodoo part you install on the engine into junk when you start it for the first time.

Stan Whitney said:

Since the front cover is off, consider switching to the 350r cam phasers. I had issues with my non R in hot weather throwing cam timing codes - the R phasers have less hydraulic leakage. There is an FP kit with chains etc. that includes them.

2015-2017 5.0L/5.2L COYOTE HIGH PERFORMANCE CAM PHASER

2015-2017 5.0L/5.2L COYOTE HIGH PERFORMANCE CAM PHASER|Ford Performance Parts

performanceparts.ford.com

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The R phasers are different? Ok I’ll add that to the list.

JAJ said:

Calling @honeybadger...

It's tempting to suggest that you do install the Predator oil pan, etc, but include a Predator 5.2 liter cross-plane crank while the bottom end is open. It'll work with your existing wiring harness and ECU and you won't have to worry about the Voodoo-vibration turning every non-Voodoo part you install on the engine into junk when you start it for the first time.

Click to expand...

Can't second this enough - I ran the predator oil pan, pickup, and pump. My engine vibrated the pickup tube to death and broke the mount and it was balanced to a higher degree than stock.

a cross plane crank and cams are a direct drop in for a Voodoo engine and the cost will be cheaper long term as reliability is higher.

If you're super committed to the Voodoo in a performance application (not a weekend car show engine swap build), keep the damper, clutch/flywheel, engine mounts, headers/midpipes, and trans mount OEM voodoo.

honeybadger said:

Can't second this enough - I ran the predator oil pan, pickup, and pump. My engine vibrated the pickup tube to death and broke the mount and it was balanced to a higher degree than stock.

a cross plane crank and cams are a direct drop in for a Voodoo engine and the cost will be cheaper long term as reliability is higher.

If you're super committed to the Voodoo in a performance application (not a weekend car show engine swap build), keep the damper, clutch/flywheel, engine mounts, headers/midpipes, and trans mount OEM voodoo.

Click to expand...

Judging that a 5.0 can get to flat plane hp numbers simply enough, I would think the added peace of mind of a cross plane would be the way to go. Does ford have a cross plane shortblock for the 5.2 since thats what they race with?

What year is the engine? Later Voodoo engines all came with the R phasers, check the engineering numbers on them. If it starts with an "F" you have the plain Jane Coyote phasers.
The Predator crank will require balancing so plan on disassembling the engine if it wasn't already in your plans.

honeybadger said:

Can't second this enough - I ran the predator oil pan, pickup, and pump. My engine vibrated the pickup tube to death and broke the mount and it was balanced to a higher degree than stock.

a cross plane crank and cams are a direct drop in for a Voodoo engine and the cost will be cheaper long term as reliability is higher.

If you're super committed to the Voodoo in a performance application (not a weekend car show engine swap build), keep the damper, clutch/flywheel, engine mounts, headers/midpipes, and trans mount OEM voodoo.

Click to expand...

Right now I'm excited about the flat-plane crank, albeit not for the right practical racecar reasons. I won't be putting a ton of miles per year on the car (5k at most) and not much track time. If this flat-plane engine shits the bed, I'll be right there with you guys and put in a cross plane next round. Long term, I like the 5.2 block, GT350 heads, and I like the idea of the Temec (although the MT82 has been pretty good to me... so far). I hear you guys on the cross-plane being the preferred crank for the long term loud and clear.

I'll take your advice and stick to the stock damper, clutch/flywheel, engine mounts, stock shorty headers, and trans mount.

Before we install it, I think we'll I'll take off the front plate, valve covers, and oil pan to swap in Boundary billet oil gears, R cam phasers, and to inspect the crank, cams, and timing chain condition.

bauern said:

What year is the engine? Later Voodoo engines all came with the R phasers, check the engineering numbers on them. If it starts with an "F" you have the plain Jane Coyote phasers.
The Predator crank will require balancing so plan on disassembling the engine if it wasn't already in your plans.

Click to expand...

Its a 2016 car, so pretty sure its a Gen 1 (we'll check to be sure in case it got replaced under warranty after it shows up). I'm trying to avoid disassembling the engine right now, as its one step past my already slightly overextended budget, even though this might bite me hard if the Voodoo flat plane ends up being a problem in the next couple of years.

It can't be worse than my friends in SCCA DP Miatas. They go through engines every 5 months it seems, which is crazy because it takes them 4 of those 5 months to get the next engine sorted and installed.

Chrome said:

Its a 2016 car, so pretty sure its a Gen 1 (we'll check to be sure in case it got replaced under warranty after it shows up). I'm trying to avoid disassembling the engine right now, as its one step past my already slightly overextended budget, even though this might bite me hard if the Voodoo flat plane ends up being a problem in the next couple of years.

It can't be worse than my friends in SCCA DP Miatas. They go through engines every 5 months it seems, which is crazy because it takes them 4 of those 5 months to get the next engine sorted and installed.

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You could keep the RPM's down but that kind of defeats the purpose of the flat plane crank. If I remember correctly, the forces quadruple as the rpm's double.

bauern said:

You could keep the RPM's down but that kind of defeats the purpose of the flat plane crank. If I remember correctly, the forces quadruple as the rpm's double.

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Well the lower gearing in the Tremec will help there some. I was running the 5.0 GT up to 7500-800 regularly with the tight geared Gen2's MT82 and 3.73s. The Voodoo w/ Tremec will be at a lower RPM for the same ground speed. With the same ~305/30R19 tires, at 65mph the GT would have been at 7500 rpm, while the Voodoo will only be at 6900 rpm.

I'm not promising to go easy on the RPMs in an Autocross setting. Its depending on the course, and I'm competitive... I won't back off the 8250 stock redline if that's what's going to give me the fastest run. The Voodoo is supposed to rev, and I'm intending to take advantage of that. I'd rather increase the maintenance interval, upgrade specific parts where needed, and check for known problem areas periodically than 'go easy' on it just in case.

bauern said:

You could keep the RPM's down but that kind of defeats the purpose of the flat plane crank. If I remember correctly, the forces quadruple as the rpm's double.

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This is why i shift mine at 3500rpm

Chrome said:

Well the lower gearing in the Tremec will help there some. I was running the 5.0 GT up to 7500-800 regularly with the tight geared Gen2's MT82 and 3.73s. The Voodoo w/ Tremec will be at a lower RPM for the same ground speed. With the same ~305/30R19 tires, at 65mph the GT would have been at 7500 rpm, while the Voodoo will only be at 6900 rpm.

I'm not promising to go easy on the RPMs in an Autocross setting. Its depending on the course, and I'm competitive... I won't back off the 8250 stock redline if that's what's going to give me the fastest run. The Voodoo is supposed to rev, and I'm intending to take advantage of that. I'd rather increase the maintenance interval, upgrade specific parts where needed, and check for known problem areas periodically than 'go easy' on it just in case.

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dont touch it, keep it stock, use amsoil, shift at 7500. Im on year 4 with mine

@honeybadger said keep it stock and it should last.

honeybadger said:

Can't second this enough - I ran the predator oil pan, pickup, and pump. My engine vibrated the pickup tube to death and broke the mount and it was balanced to a higher degree than stock.

a cross plane crank and cams are a direct drop in for a Voodoo engine and the cost will be cheaper long term as reliability is higher.

If you're super committed to the Voodoo in a performance application (not a weekend car show engine swap build), keep the damper, clutch/flywheel, engine mounts, headers/midpipes, and trans mount OEM voodoo.

Click to expand...

why the stock headers/midpipes?

stiggggilicious said:

why the stock headers/midpipes?

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they're tuned to absorb the NVH of the voodoo. Lots of my friends switched to catless midpipes and kept cracking them - regardless of brand and "quality." I don't think I saw any engine failures related to exhaust - more just a nuisance of the voodoo breaking stuff.

There look to be big rubber grommet / hangers on the cat sections (plus the flex pipes) which probably help them absorb/dampen engine vibrations before they crack welds on the rest of the exhaust.

power gains from headers sound marginal anyway, and I dont need the loudest car or any additional trials and tribulations with O2 sensor readyness for state inspections so I’ll be happy to reuse those factory exhaust parts.