I removed it by lifting the body off of it. Disconnecting all the wiring harnesses from their connection to the body and tucking them out of the way is one area you to need to pay attention to. Take close up pictures of everything so you know how they are routed.
Also, disconnect the steering column. At the very least at the bottom knuckle. When I reinstalled the engine with Kooks Shorties, I ended up disconnecting it from the top knuckle too so you may want to do that up front. Just make sure the steering wheel is locked in place so its not moved while your're working on the car. Technically, the bolts are one-time-use so order them ahead of time or make sure you use Lock-tite when puting them back in. I had to push the telescoping portion out a bit through the firewall from the drivers seat side to line everything up when I put it back together.
Despite having the Ford Performance Radiator, I did not need to remove the radiator, etc. Although you should remove the radiator fan and coolant expansion tank.
I marked around the outline of the K-member to assist in aligning it again afterwards. I'm not sure that helped much because there didn't seeem to be any ability to shift it around when reassembling.
I disconnected the ball joints and tie-rod ends to avoid having to disconnect the calipers and to have less "stuff" in the way when working on the engine. But if I had to do it over, I'd disconnect the calipers and struts. There are less one-time bolts/nuts to replace that way. Either way you'll need an alignment.
Note that the O2 sensors and transmission linkage are also held to the trans tunnel by some plastic fasteners. Once you drop the engine and trans combo a few inches you can reach up and disconnet. You may need to use one of those trip clip fastener pliers that spread the surfaces apart to make it easier.
My friend had a homemade heavy welding table on wheels that we used to hold the engine. I just used some 1x3 wood strips under the k-member to keep the oil pan off the table and a block of wood under the transmission cross member. I was only changing the cams, timing gear, oil pump and manifold so I basically just worked on it as it sat - but wheeled it out from under the car.
If you don't have a table like that I've heard some people use stacks of pallets. If you do, then either get a pair of the cheap Harbor Freight dollies to stack them on or attach casters on the bottom pallet.
As your lifting the car off, stop the lift every 1 or 2 inches and look all the way around to make sure nothing is caught. Having a buddy really makes this go faster.
If you're removing the engine and the trans as a unit, coming out from below must be easier since you don't have to worry about angling the combo up and out.
Good luck.