315 R6s on all four corners

[cloud9]

I bought another BMW. 1992 3-series setup for GTS2 (NASA). I made a low-ball offer and won. Now I'm stuck with it

Nice. Good luck!

 

[LTNYC]

I just upgraded to a Cortex X-treme grip street system with JRi coilovers. The 18x11" CCWs (8-inch backspacing) are hitting the spring perches in the rear. I'm bummed talking with Filip & John right now trying to find a solution. Looks like I'll either have to swap to DA could in the rear, or change out from the 2.5" springs to 2.25", or just shorter springs overall. They're just touching, so even a little clearance should solve it. Other option is to send the 11's back to CCW and exchange for 10.5s. But The 305s seem to get more rubber to the ground with the 11s. UGH.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

I just upgraded to a Cortex X-treme grip street system with JRi coilovers. The 18x11" CCWs (8-inch backspacing) are hitting the spring perches in the rear. I'm bummed talking with Filip & John right now trying to find a solution. Looks like I'll either have to swap to DA could in the rear, or change out from the 2.5" springs to 2.25", or just shorter springs overall. They're just touching, so even a little clearance should solve it. Other option is to send the 11's back to CCW and exchange for 10.5s. But The 305s seem to get more rubber to the ground with the 11s. UGH.

Is there enough room in the fenderwell to run a small wheel spacer?

 

[neema]

LTNYC, one option is to mount the springs in the factory location and to flip the shock upside down. You'll get gobs of room this way. If it makes you feel better, I got the blessing from JRi and Filip to run it this way. The wheel rate isn't as consistent with the springs mounted inboard, but you can fit big 12" wide wheels in the back with the new space. See below

Clearance with the rear coilover as it comes from cortex:




Clearance after divorcing the spring from the shock and flipping it upside down:

 

[steveespo]

LTNYC, one option is to mount the springs in the factory location and to flip the shock upside down. You'll get gobs of room this way. If it makes you feel better, I got the blessing from JRi and Filip to run it this way. The wheel rate isn't as consistent with the springs mounted inboard, but you can fit big 12" wide wheels in the back with the new space. See below

Clearance with the rear coilover as it comes from cortex:




Clearance after divorcing the spring from the shock and flipping it upside down:

This is how my MM JRi DA rear shock/springs are setup, there is a good amount of clearance between the sidewall and the shock shaft. You have to account for a slight change in motion rate since the spring on the axle is closer to the control arm pivot point there is less leverage. Spring rate should be a little softer on the axle than on the shock. Probably not enough to worry about though.
Steve

 

[LTNYC]

Is there enough room in the fenderwell to run a small wheel spacer?

Yeah I had considered that but the wheels are already flush to outer fender, so I'd need to roll fenders. But then it's more stress on the bearings too

 

[LTNYC]

Good to know! I didn't even know this was an option. Will this increase wear and tear prematurely though, since this isn't how these components are really meant to be placed?

LTNYC, one option is to mount the springs in the factory location and to flip the shock upside down. You'll get gobs of room this way. If it makes you feel better, I got the blessing from JRi and Filip to run it this way. The wheel rate isn't as consistent with the springs mounted inboard, but you can fit big 12" wide wheels in the back with the new space. See below

Clearance with the rear coilover as it comes from cortex:




Clearance after divorcing the spring from the shock and flipping it upside down:

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Yeah I had considered that but the wheels are already flush to outer fender, so I'd need to roll fenders. But then it's more stress on the bearings too

I am figuring to have my fenders rolled in February just for peace of mind here.

 

[Roadhouse]

I am figuring to have my fenders rolled in February just for peace of mind here.

Maybe I'm missing something, but aren't the fenders on our cars already rolled from the factory?

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Maybe I'm missing something, but aren't the fenders on our cars already rolled from the factory?

They're pretty good already but you can flare them out a little bit more w/ the roller.

 

[Roadhouse]

They're pretty good already but you can flare them out a little bit more w/ the roller.

Cool. I guess every little bit helps if you're close...

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

We'll find out. I have a body shop buddy that will do it for an agreeable price.

 

[JScheier]

We'll find out. I have a body shop buddy that will do it for an agreeable price.

Heat. Make sure you have access to a good heat gun and use it.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Heat. Make sure you have access to a good heat gun and use it.

For sure. Good article on this on Turnology.com today.

 

[neema]

Good to know! I didn't even know this was an option. Will this increase wear and tear prematurely though, since this isn't how these components are really meant to be placed?

The shocks are happy to be mounted either way, and 2.5" will work just fine on the axle (it is the stock location after all). the caveat is that you'll need weight jackers/threaded spring perches to maintain adjustability. Vorshlag has some for sale.

 

[steveespo]

For sure. Good article on this on Turnology.com today.

Drew
At the body shop have them aim their infrared drying lamps at the corner you are doing and preheat it for 30 minutes. Then use the heat gun and roller to stretch them out. Heat makes it all more flexible and less chance of cracking the paint or kinking the sheetmetal. It will come out smooth and almost look factory. You can probably push it out 3/8" on the quarters and 1/2" or more on the fender arches.
Steve

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Drew
At the body shop have them aim their infrared drying lamps at the corner you are doing and preheat it for 30 minutes. Then use the heat gun and roller to stretch them out. Heat makes it all more flexible and less chance of cracking the paint or kinking the sheetmetal. It will come out smooth and almost look factory. You can probably push it out 3/8" on the quarters and 1/2" or more on the fender arches.
Steve

not a bad idea; thanks!

 

[LTNYC]

The shocks are happy to be mounted either way, and 2.5" will work just fine on the axle (it is the stock location after all). the caveat is that you'll need weight jackers/threaded spring perches to maintain adjustability. Vorshlag has some for sale.

Switching to double adjustables for a bit more clearance! Filip didn't recomment the divorce

 

[blacksheep-1]

not a bad idea; thanks!

I use a heat gun because it's faster but don't get too frisky.. it's really pretty simple you can do it at home.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Ordered my first set of 18x10.5 PF01s today...the wait begins