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blacksheep-1 said:Some random thoughts, source some longer (much longer) bolts for the subframe, support it with a jack and one by one, replace the stock bolts with the longer ones, for the most part the subframe will drop straight down making some necessary room, and it will stay lined up. It also has the added feature of just not suddenly coming loose and dropping off the car at an inopportune time. Replace the control arm bolts with the same dimensional bolt only use a hex or 12pt head and separate washer so (in theory) it will slide by the rack. Lastly, measure the toe in at normal ride height, then jack the car up about an inch and remeasure, then again in another inch. You can tape a steel ruler on the side of the frame to measure this or just measure fender height..whatever. Then do the opposite, now to lower the car you would need to either remove the springs..or uncrank the coil overs..or put the car on a lift and raise it with the frame chained to the floor, again do the measurements at both 1 and 2 inches (or whatever you did on the raised side) this way you can graph it.
The last time I did this I did it with no springs in the car so the suspension was more easily manipulated. Dragster guys normally worry about toe on the "rise" most circle track and road racers focus on the "lower" numbers.
The question is how far is the car actually moving? you can do the tired and true method of placing tire wraps on the shock housing and seeing how much they compress, or you could whip up a couple of steel pieces, a rod and a tube, affix one end to the lower a arm and one to the frame, using rod ends, and place tie wraps on those, mark the location, and see how much the tie wrap moves. This should tell you where yo need to focus and at what suspension travel to efficiently measure bump steer.
At a baseline, in real life, the control arms and tie rod ends should all be parallel with each other at normal ride height, along with things like panhard bars and misc links, so at least at NRH the suspension should not be under any bind.
BMRTech said:And here are just some random shots. We installed our tall ball joint adjustable arms...and extended them out as far as possible (retained 3/4" of thread into the tube adapter/arm. This adds negative camber, adds some caster, and will slightly move the tires forward, which is what we want.
BMRTech said:The fore mount, with the bearing....extends outboard.
The rear of the arm is slotted. So you can "pull" it out. When you do this, it pivots the arm in a manner that pulls the wheels out, and a little forward - thus increasing track width, negative camber, and wheelbase slightly.
Here is a shot. Check out the rear mounts, how they are offset outboard in relation to the lower mount on the K-Member.
Jabooh1 said:All this adjustment is one reason why I haven't done a BMR K member and A Arm change out.
Jabooh1 said:All this adjustment is one reason why I haven't done a BMR K member and A Arm change out.
Grant 302 said:That's exactly what I was talking about.
Nah, that's the *best* reason to try it! 8) My only concern is not having the Howe ball joint in there.