This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Bump steer is the very last thing you do after alignment.I guess I don't understand bump quite like I thought, I do have caster/camber plates though
I've got a couple bucket list tracks out your way so who knows I might be out there soon
Well damn, now I want to get a bumpsteer gauge and get this done correctly, .016 is incredibly impressive
Caster should be good, if I remember the last report they were even, can't recall the actual measurement. Although I've been debating going to coilovers soon so maybe after that would be a good time to set bumpBump steer is the very last thing you do after alignment.
If the caster changes, that changes the bumpsteer because it raises/lowers the tie rod end and you get to start all over..
Agreed. It's amazing how much the smallest spacer changes the bump curve.An alignment shop won’t have a proper bump gauge, regardless of what they may tell you.
Basically you just slam the caster as far + as it will go, then set camber and toe. Them set the bump. If you are doing coil overs, do it at the same time.Caster should be good, if I remember the last report they were even, can't recall the actual measurement. Although I've been debating going to coilovers soon so maybe after that would be a good time to set bump
Yeah that is what I am learning here, now it makes more sense on why they send some paper thin spacersAgreed. It's amazing how much the smallest spacer changes the bump curve.
I'll have to see what the budget allows but hopefully I can make the move to coil overs, I've just been running the eibach stuff that came on the car when I bought itBasically you just slam the caster as far + as it will go, then set camber and toe. Them set the bump. If you are doing coil overs, do it at the same time.
I have a saying:Yeah that is what I am learning here, now it makes more sense on why they send some paper thin spacers
I'll have to see what the budget allows but hopefully I can make the move to coil overs, I've just been running the eibach stuff that came on the car when I bought it
I like it, now I just need to keep learning the details from you allI have a saying:
Winners do what losers won’t.
It’s all in the details man.
Good catch, that could have made for a really bad day...Well last track day was plagued with a bit of hesitation, I kept getting a metallic resonance on left handed turns and despite raising the car up several times all suspension looked good, paint marks were where they should have been etc. Finally got around to checking it out and oddly enough tracked it down the passenger side exhaust being a little loose so the tip was hitting the bumper structure and it was only happening when that side suspension was loaded up thus only left handers. Okay easy enough, tighten maybe replace some clamps but the real scare came when checking on the clamps by the H-pipe under the middle of the car, one of the driveshaft center bearing bracket bolts was just gone, when I found it the bracket was actually resting on the black cross member. I was able to find a bolt that was the same threads so I could get it back up but now I really just want to get this heavy thing out and the aluminum requires no center bracket due to being so much lighter so that just moved up in priority
View attachment 89387
I think the only thing that really saved me was the fact that it is the one spot that is meant to have some angle to itGood catch, that could have made for a really bad day...
If you go with a 1 pc driveshaft, consider replacing your UCA with an adjustable unit so you can get the pinion angle dialed in. I went through two pinion seal replacements before figuring that out.
I used the Steeda adjustable uca with poly bushings and it's held up well 4 seasons later. I read that the Roush uca was the hot ticket but I think that one has been discontinued. However, most of the quality manufacturers should provide a decent upgrade over the factory part. It's crazy how much deflection the stock stamped unit with rubber bushings has.I think the only thing that really saved me was the fact that it is the one spot that is meant to have some angle to it
That's a good tip, I recall reading that somewhere but forgot about it. Do you have an UCA that you prefer?
Yeah after some reading and talking with the guys at Maximum Motorsports I got the same message about the Roush one and was able to find one, so I have been running that for the last year and a half and I have been really liking it. Same design just beefed up steel and much harder rubber bushing, I would like to see more higher density rubber bushing replacements in general, the poly stuff is good but from my (limited) experience the rubber seems to have a more consistent and linear loading action and it will eat up some of the small imperfections and bumps which depending on scenario may help keep the wheels planted. But then again I am running a good number of spherical bearings which are really unforgiving and perhaps the specific brand of poly I have been working with is harder than others so the experimentation continues!I used the Steeda adjustable uca with poly bushings and it's held up well 4 seasons later. I read that the Roush uca was the hot ticket but I think that one has been discontinued. However, most of the quality manufacturers should provide a decent upgrade over the factory part. It's crazy how much deflection the stock stamped unit with rubber bushings has.