I've decided to stick with the stock size rear rotors for now. If I was going to change them I'd go with the Steeda which is in-between the stock and GT500 rear rotor size at 13". Thanks for everyone's comments.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
NFSBOSS said:I've decided to stick with the stock size rear rotors for now. If I was going to change them I'd go with the Steeda which is in-between the stock and GT500 rear rotor size at 13". Thanks for everyone's comments.
There's plenty of first hand experience using a 13.8 or 14" rear rotor with a 14" front rotor with no issues. I guy I have done many track days with has the BAER 14" kit front and rear and he has noticed no difference. When I'm behind him coming down from 120 mph into a 40 mph corner his car is stable. It's the hardest braking zone of the tracks here in NorCal. The Steeda kit splits the difference and looks to be a safe bet. Plus the costs is similar to the GT500 rear setup including replacement rotors. When my current DBA 4000 T3 rear rotors need replacing I'll revisit this.Jimmy Pribble said:Wait a minute; I ain't done yet.
I also agree with Grant's point about bias. However, if the same rear brakes are to be found on the standard GT and the Brembo/Boss, wouldn't a rear upgrade just restore the bias found on the standard GT? Was the bias incorrect and then corrected with big brakes up front? That seems unlikely to me. Either way, it can't be the same. One is better than the other. Obviously, I don't expect it to be perfect; just speaking in general terms. Also, just trying to get the bias in the ballpark. The ABS takes care of the rest.
Thoughts?
Jimmy Pribble said:Wait a minute; I ain't done yet.
I also agree with Grant's point about bias. However, if the same rear brakes are to be found on the standard GT and the Brembo/Boss, wouldn't a rear upgrade just restore the bias found on the standard GT? Was the bias incorrect and then corrected with big brakes up front? That seems unlikely to me. Either way, it can't be the same. One is better than the other. Obviously, I don't expect it to be perfect; just speaking in general terms. Also, just trying to get the bias in the ballpark. The ABS takes care of the rest.
Thoughts?
The point of the larger rotors, whether it's rear or front, is improved heat dissipation.ufnavy06 said:Sooooo general consensus is bigger rear brakes not necessarily good. Spend money on more aggressive pads and heat dissipation. Got it.
I was like you a couple of years ago when Gary and Pete kept telling me that turning the TC off will not only allow you to go faster but you'll have more control over the car on track. I finally got the balls to turn it off and have never looked back and you know what? They were right. ;D Earlier this year I accidentally left the TC on for a session and when I pulled into the pits the rear rotors were smoking.further said:One tiny thing I've done which may or may not make a difference, in addition to removing the brake shields, is to remove the small gravel blocker in the front of the rear wheel well, hoping to improve airflow to rotor. TC off would certainly help, as it engages brakes to center the car, but I'm not that adventurous.
If you still have side pipes with the discs removed, you don't have to remove those because with enough track time you'll just melt them off!further said:One tiny thing I've done which may or may not make a difference, in addition to removing the brake shields, is to remove the small gravel blocker in the front of the rear wheel well, hoping to improve airflow to rotor. TC off would certainly help, as it engages brakes to center the car, but I'm not that adventurous.
I have a Longacre with a separate attached probe for checking tire temps as well.ufnavy06 said:Speaking of temperatures in the rotors, what infrared/thermal imaging gun are you using to check the temps? I'd definitely like to pick one of those up.
This is the one I have from Longacre. I'm not sure where I bought it but they list it on their site for $219.90ufnavy06 said:Not one of those $300 ones that compensate for pressure differences though, right?
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
cloud9 said:If you still have side pipes with the discs removed, you don't have to remove those because with enough track time you'll just melt them off!
NFSBOSS said:I was like you a couple of years ago when Gary and Pete kept telling me that turning the TC off will not only allow you to go faster but you'll have more control over the car on track. I finally got the balls to turn it off and have never looked back and you know what? They were right. ;D Earlier this year I accidentally left the TC on for a session and when I pulled into the pits the rear rotors were smoking.
Pete has also noticed more heat in his rear rotors. I'll be checking that more carefully at track days in 2014.
Eric said:Rick,
I ordered the Baer kit through Chicane23 (www.chicane23.com); ask for John. I also installed the Baer front 2-piece/slotted rotors at the same time. They were both shipped direct from Baer.
You can also get them from Kenny Brown.
http://store.kennybrown.com/product/brake-rotors/baer-eradispeed2-rear-rotors-2005-2014-mustang-boss-302-and-shelby-gt500
r
Eric
NFSBOSS said:Stoptech has a bunch of good tech articles and here's one on rear rotor size.
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/rear-brake-upgrades
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers