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Stand Alone Engine Harness GT350

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I'm looking for a stand alone wiring harness for my 17 GT350 that I bought wrecked and am doing a body swap. I have a new engine harness but was hoping I could just get a stand alone kit to make it a hobby car and not have to install all new harnesses. Any pointers would me much appreciated. The 2.3L Mustang body harness needs to be replaced as well to account for the diff pump and fuel pumps. I plan to have fun on the track with this car.

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So I've been contemplating similar/related questions and doing some research. The Ford control pack harness does not have the same CAN bus integration as the stock harness so your electric steering rack will not work. You need a stimulator from Cortex Racing. Also Ford states that if you try to use it in a CAN equipped mustang the engine won't start either (because of the CAN bus interruption). The gauge cluster also will not work, and likely the push button start. Beyond that its not clear to me how much of the rest of the CAN reliant functions of the car are interrupted by having a different engine harness, but likely some are.

So the conclusion I came to is its easiest to either leave all stock harnesses in and in your case have the dealership reprogram/marry any modules that are not talking to eachother after the swap, or rip it all out and do a full chassis rewire. Anywhere in between will certainly be the more difficult road.
 
So I've been contemplating similar/related questions and doing some research. The Ford control pack harness does not have the same CAN bus integration as the stock harness so your electric steering rack will not work. You need a stimulator from Cortex Racing. Also Ford states that if you try to use it in a CAN equipped mustang the engine won't start either (because of the CAN bus interruption). The gauge cluster also will not work, and likely the push button start. Beyond that its not clear to me how much of the rest of the CAN reliant functions of the car are interrupted by having a different engine harness, but likely some are.

So the conclusion I came to is its easiest to either leave all stock harnesses in and in your case have the dealership reprogram/marry any modules that are not talking to eachother after the swap, or rip it all out and do a full chassis rewire. Anywhere in between will certainly be the more difficult road.
That is the answer that I was coming to. Thank you for taking the time to help me figure it out. Looks like I'll just use the OEM harness and leave the Key fob in the car.
 

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