Thinking of a 2018+ mustang for mostly track duty, occasional weekend car, looking for info

[concretevol]

I won't repeat what is a lot of good advice so far. I think a lot depends on budget for the initial car purchase. Best option to me is a GT350 or GT350R. Next is the Mach 1 because it has a lot of the best bits from the GT350. Plenty of people track 5.0 GTs so not sure why it was said they aren't good track cars. The performance package options definitely shortcut a lot of things you will have to add on your own otherwise. Other than that, the 2018+ engine is pretty bulletproof and I would for sure go with a manual transmission. Rev match or heel to toe is all personal preference, for me personally heel/toe is really satisfying purely because it is a more raw car/driver experience.

 

[flyhalf]

that was with SAE J1349

U have cams?

 

[Mad Hatter]

U have cams?

We have the LM intake only cams in our cars, but that Mach 1 in the chart does not.

 

[byronj]

Im biased here and would say get a GT350 and improve on that but the new Mach one is basically a GT350 without the 5.2 VooDoo engine. And to be honest, you don't need that much HOP to be fast. Alessandro and Nikko are proof of that. You could search for a well sorted out S197 thats still streetable and you can have tons of fun on the track and strip with a lower operating cost.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

........and there are plenty of folks on here that will tell you they know of a well sorted Mach 1 with the extremely important " Handling Package " that will save you plenty of money getting things set up since quite a bit has already been done. Just check my profile and view the silver Mach 1 I had ( had is key as it currently is at Porsche of Omaha ). I can tell you all about the car, it is great for a DD, solid for autocrossing, and has never failed to be in a trophy position in NASA Time Trials.

Just saying..........................

 

[Tonymustang302]

Honestly, for reliability, the mach 1 is a way better choice than a gt350.

 

[Dave_W]

check my profile and view the silver Mach 1 I had ( had is key as it currently is at Porsche of Omaha ).

To the OP, if you're looking to buy now and this is in your budget, pull the trigger on this car before it's gone. It's the ideal model & option package for what you're looking to do, has the right mods for worry-free track duty, and is well-sorted.

 

[PaddyPrix]

Nothing wrong with the Base GT if you're willing to do a little work, namely the Performance Pack's brakes. The factory cooling on the PP is nice and cool, but most people who get serious end up upgrading, and if you're coming from a Base GT, you can either pick up their factory stuff on the cheap, or just do what they're doing just the same. Base GT factory suspension sucks, but you can get a FRPP Track Pack to hang with the HPDE crowds, or a set of motorsport coilovers to compete. Since you're towing, with a little patience, happen to know your way around salvages, and have some friends, you can have a full car for under $20k. Since it was until just recently the current platform, just about all of the factory parts are still well available, so most boo-boos can be fixed without a long downtime. With all that speed and weight, you'll chew through expensive tires... but that's pretty much the same for all in the bigger bore classes when compared to a Miata, 944, e30, etc.

 

[Tonymustang302]

Are you back yet

 

[PaddyPrix]

Are you back yet

Me? Just kinda restarting the effort now that the pain has stopped. Lot of work still to be done, more to strip, and a few custom things still to figure out, and having the s650 platform now hitting the streets, might be worth seeing what improvements can be stolen/retrofitted.

 

[bnight]

Nothing wrong with the Base GT if you're willing to do a little work, namely the Performance Pack's brakes. The factory cooling on the PP is nice and cool, but most people who get serious end up upgrading, and if you're coming from a Base GT, you can either pick up their factory stuff on the cheap, or just do what they're doing just the same. Base GT factory suspension sucks, but you can get a FRPP Track Pack to hang with the HPDE crowds, or a set of motorsport coilovers to compete. Since you're towing, with a little patience, happen to know your way around salvages, and have some friends, you can have a full car for under $20k. Since it was until just recently the current platform, just about all of the factory parts are still well available, so most boo-boos can be fixed without a long downtime. With all that speed and weight, you'll chew through expensive tires... but that's pretty much the same for all in the bigger bore classes when compared to a Miata, 944, e30, etc.

For me Base GT preferably on the cheap could be the best option since you want to ditch a lot of the things that make a PP1 package (Just not enough of that is worth it for a serious track car). If you are trailing the car you can up your brakes game a lot and get rid of the PoS "Brembo" and buy real racing brakes, good coilovers, since you are doing your cooling anyway you can ditch the PP1 radiator and get better radiator from the get go. Regarding suspension skip all the strut and springs combos and move straight the MCS 2 way ot Cortex JRi. Overall here is how my dream build should look like if it's strictly a track car:

1. Brakes:
ESSEX/APRacing:
13.01.10119 - $5700 - Fronts
13.01.10120 - $4599 - Rears
This are what is fit on an FP350s so they should be good for track
Braided Brake Lines and Clutch Line - $400
Some form of front brakes cooling - $500

2. Suspension:

Front:
Either MCS TT2 or Cortex JRi both are around $4300
Steeda Front Swaybar + Steeda Competition Swaybar - $700
Whiteline / Steeda Endlinks - $400
Steeda Front Control Arms + Tension Links with Bearings - $700
Steeda Bumpsteer kit - $240
Camber Plates Vorshlag - $525

Rear:

Steeda IRS Base Kit: $209
Steeda RLCA Bearings: $240
Steeda Toe-Links with Knuckle to Toe Link Bearings: $375



3. Engine Cooling

LCR-50-96 0-4063 FP350S Oil Cooler: $600
M-6675-M52RR 12 qts Oil Pan: $1503
M-6675-M52RR Oil Pick-up Tube: $195
M-8501-M52A Wather Pump: $229
Mishimoto MMRAD-MUS8-15 Radiator: $647
Mishimoto MMTS-MUS8-11 Thermostat 160: $60
Some form of Radiator Ducting
RaceLoover Hood Vents: $600

4. Wheels + Tires:
Apex EC-7 19x11: $2000
Goodyear SC3R 305/30/19 - don't know the price in states
APR Studs Front: $120
OPMustang Spacers: $50
OPMustang racing lug nuts: $50

Other than that you can round up this build as you like with engine mods (not very familiar there as I'm running stock motor for reliability / ease of fixing) and Exhaust / Intake. Same goes for safety items like cage, seats etc.

Overall from what I'm seeing on my daily/track car the biggest issues for a MT82 car is brakes cooling and CHT temps of the engine some of the mods in the cooling are overkill but I'm a huge fen of the pay ones cry ones methodology.

Hope this helps.

 

[ACGTS40]

Thanks for all the replies, doing my research and love all this info I’m getting

 

[Mad Hatter]

For me Base GT preferably on the cheap could be the best option since you want to ditch a lot of the things that make a PP1 package (Just not enough of that is worth it for a serious track car). If you are trailing the car you can up your brakes game a lot and get rid of the PoS "Brembo" and buy real racing brakes, good coilovers, since you are doing your cooling anyway you can ditch the PP1 radiator and get better radiator from the get go. Regarding suspension skip all the strut and springs combos and move straight the MCS 2 way ot Cortex JRi. Overall here is how my dream build should look like if it's strictly a track car:

1. Brakes:
ESSEX/APRacing:
13.01.10119 - $5700 - Fronts
13.01.10120 - $4599 - Rears
This are what is fit on an FP350s so they should be good for track
Braided Brake Lines and Clutch Line - $400
Some form of front brakes cooling - $500

2. Suspension:

Front:
Either MCS TT2 or Cortex JRi both are around $4300
Steeda Front Swaybar + Steeda Competition Swaybar - $700
Whiteline / Steeda Endlinks - $400
Steeda Front Control Arms + Tension Links with Bearings - $700
Steeda Bumpsteer kit - $240
Camber Plates Vorshlag - $525

Rear:

Steeda IRS Base Kit: $209
Steeda RLCA Bearings: $240
Steeda Toe-Links with Knuckle to Toe Link Bearings: $375



3. Engine Cooling

LCR-50-96 0-4063 FP350S Oil Cooler: $600
M-6675-M52RR 12 qts Oil Pan: $1503
M-6675-M52RR Oil Pick-up Tube: $195
M-8501-M52A Wather Pump: $229
Mishimoto MMRAD-MUS8-15 Radiator: $647
Mishimoto MMTS-MUS8-11 Thermostat 160: $60
Some form of Radiator Ducting
RaceLoover Hood Vents: $600

4. Wheels + Tires:
Apex EC-7 19x11: $2000
Goodyear SC3R 305/30/19 - don't know the price in states
APR Studs Front: $120
OPMustang Spacers: $50
OPMustang racing lug nuts: $50

Other than that you can round up this build as you like with engine mods (not very familiar there as I'm running stock motor for reliability / ease of fixing) and Exhaust / Intake. Same goes for safety items like cage, seats etc.

Overall from what I'm seeing on my daily/track car the biggest issues for a MT82 car is brakes cooling and CHT temps of the engine some of the mods in the cooling are overkill but I'm a huge fen of the pay ones cry ones methodology.

Hope this helps.

Hmm.... I would never say that the 15" brembos from the S550 are a POS. I compete with several AP racing equipped cars and get the same braking performance for 1/5 the price. its all in the ducting and brake pad choice. I think the OP was looking for affordable upgrades to track the car, not to go after GT3's! If you are on street tires you can't go crazy with the brakes in any case.....

 

[flyhalf]

Fyi. I pull 1.7 -1.8 g in vertical.G with pp1 brakes.
The brakes are fine .at least.at our level Imo.
One note. The other great advantage guys is..the torsen diff in the back...

 

[Bill Pemberton]

Have to go along with Flyhalf, the 15 inch rotors with the 6 piston Brembos on my Mach 1 ( well, my late Mach 1 , ha) I was pulling similar Gs and outbraking everything in sight. It is one of the strong points of the Handling Package and the big meats on the car help too, ha.

 

[Mad Hatter]

Its funny, but when the Porsches see my big red brembos (S550 pp) they assume I spent 5 grand for them... I dont tell them they go for 1200 a set, maybe 2200 if you go with 2 pc rotors. But the disc ring price put me off the 2pc. And totally agree with @flyhalf , the torsen rear end is the unsung hero

 

[Bill Pemberton]

Or, it could just be the " Mad Gringo " is behind us and he don't like to slow down!

 

[bnight]

Fyi. I pull 1.7 -1.8 g in vertical.G with pp1 brakes.
The brakes are fine .at least.at our level Imo.
One note. The other great advantage guys is..the torsen diff in the back...

Yeah but the design of the bleed valves is a problem, the design of the OEM bolts for the front brake pads is a Pita and if they are not maitained proparly you will go through callipers a lot (I'm already on my second set of all 4 callipers). And I'm having huge issues with brake pad fade with AR-1 tires pulling 1.6G in braking. I do agree that they work but question is for how long.

 

[bronco100]

so as the title says, i am looking for some help with a 18plus stang for the track, i am thinking standard GT 5.0 but not sure on what packages. When i say track i will also use it sometimes on the weekend, may an autox here and there
and may be a few times at the drag strip. Car would be trailered to the track.

A little bit about me, i have race karts for a while, race SCCA Spec Racer ford for a while, and have completed track days on a motorcycle and car. Also love to sim race as well.
I have another mid engine car i track once in awhile but really want some american muscle to enjoy. Just curious if anyone has come from a german car or mid engine car to the stang
your thoughts on differences or pros and cons.

My initial thinking is a 2018plus car, is there any year that is better than others? Any years that have any issues i need to think about since this would be mainly a track/weekend car?
I plan on putting a bar in it so i can run proper seats w either 4 or 5 racing belts. Are any of the seats that come in packages worth it or just buy aftermarket?

Automatic/Stick: the automatics seem to be very stout but are most running auto for straight line fun or do some run them on the road course? Are they reliable on the road course? I do
enjoy left foot braking as well. W the stick shift, is it auto rev match or do you have to heal/toe?

Any package i should look for? I was thinking of adding some steeda goodies but wasnt sure if it needed shocks as well or if some of the packages with magnetic ride
are better than aftermarket.

Tires/Brakes: how long does a good pair of tires last, brake pads as well? Do you recommend changing rims?

Im not really concerned with HP, would probably tune it and cold air intake, exhaust. But otherwise just concentrating on putting down laps.

Anything else that is recommended, concern, something to think about i am all ears.

Thanks in advance for the help

AC

I was in a similar position not long ago and ended up selecting the 2018 Ford Mustang Ecoboost. It's much better balanced than the GT and lighter weight. Particularly if you're coming from a german/mid-engined car, it will be more familiar. The only downside is obviously less power (which you mentioned you don't mind).

Yes you'll want to change rims, and they're called wheels. You'll need some upgraded tires as well.

You could go auto or manual, if you go auto you may need additional transmission cooling. If you go manual, I'd personally go for one that comes with downshift rev-matching, unless your heel-toe (not heal/toe, by the way) technique is perfect.

No, none of the seats that come any of the packages are worth it because they aren't SFI/FIA certified and they won't support a 6-point harness. You can't run "4 or 5 racing belts", almost any track or racing series will not allow a 4-point belt. I don't know what you mean about "putting a bar" in it, don't install a harness bar. You will want at least a rear 4-point cage, or a full cage if you are doing any wheel to wheel racing.

 

[TMSBOSS]

Yeah but the design of the bleed valves is a problem, the design of the OEM bolts for the front brake pads is a Pita and if they are not maitained proparly you will go through callipers a lot (I'm already on my second set of all 4 callipers). And I'm having huge issues with brake pad fade with AR-1 tires pulling 1.6G in braking. I do agree that they work but question is for how long.

Replace the standard style bleeders with a “sleeved” bleeder. Not sure this is the right term. My Brembos have an insert/metal piece which sears into the caliper, Once. Once in place you manipulate the bleeder inside the steel sleeve. The threads on the caliper are saved. This is an example of the type I use. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/p...MIhcDy3J6FgQMVFzWtBh3uMA47EAQYBSABEgJQePD_BwE