Hawk DTC-70/DTC-60 vs OEM GT350 pads

Hi all,

I've started running NASA TT3 and my stellar performance last weekend (and the fact that I was the only TT3 car ) means I've won some Hawk bucks. Looking through threads on here, I'm not seeing a lot of love for the Hawk pads. Specifically, I'm seeing:

- They eat rotors like candy
- Dust is corrosive
- Non-linear brake torque

I've been running OEM pads for track days and have been quite happy with them, I was just looking forward to saving some consumables dough ($100 towards pads per weekend would be nice). Any other perspectives on the Hawk pads vs. OEM or am I better off walking away from them even with the "free money"?

Thanks,

Chip

Agree with those anti hawk comments... but free pads!!

Hawks are are good for typically one track day so the cheap part is relative. More expensive pads like Pagid will probably last over 8 times longer. So you have to see what fits your budget and how much time will you have on track.

With the hawks, you would have to factor in the disc destruction factor as well.. $$.

Now that Pagids have become sooo expensive am back to Gloc R18 pads upfront with improved brake cooling. @Fabman plates and 4" ducts. So far so good. two hours of track and the pads still look new.

Mad Hatter said:

Agree with those anti hawk comments... but free pads!!

Hawks are are good for typically one track day so the cheap part is relative. More expensive pads like Pagid will probably last over 8 times longer. So you have to see what fits your budget and how much time will you have on track.

With the hawks, you would have to factor in the disc destruction factor as well.. $$.

Now that Pagids have become sooo expensive am back to Gloc R18 pads upfront with improved brake cooling. @Fabman plates and 4" ducts. So far so good. two hours of track and the pads still look new.

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My OEM pads last me 4+ days. I do have brake cooling in place. I've yet to replace the OEM rotors, though I have a spare set ready and waiting as the rotors have some surface checking. Free pads are great, but not if they cost me more in rotor wear than they're worth. I'm running on SC3 tires, for additional info, and haven't had issues with brake fade. I'm running Road Atlanta in a few weeks, though, and want to be sure I'm in good shape for that.

I have been running DTC 70/60 on my car for 8 track days and have had no issues with them. I have quite a bit left on the pads. They stop really well and my rotor wear looks good.

Idk how are you guys are running on stock pads, they aren't good with constantly pushing the car through the whole session. Idk how any of the aftermarket with track-specified compound could be worse, but anything possible I guess
I'm using Powerstop Trackday, cheap af and doing their job pretty good. Even wear, linear brake feel, no fade.
My stock rotors are almost cooked after 3000 racetrack kilometers and 4 sets of PS trackday pads - pretty good numbers for me, considering it's pretty heavy car.

Maxim_7k said:

Idk how are you guys are running on stock pads, they aren't good with constantly pushing the car through the whole session. Idk how any of the aftermarket with track-specified compound could be worse, but anything possible I guess
I'm using Powerstop Trackday, cheap af and doing their job pretty good. Even wear, linear brake feel, no fade.
My stock rotors are almost cooked after 3000 racetrack kilometers and 4 sets of PS trackday pads - pretty good numbers for me, considering it's pretty heavy car.

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I think a lot of it has to do with specifics of the courses/layout and speeds at each, something we should all take into account... that, and if it's a fulltime race car or a street car, and whatever the minor differences are there. We have a course on a NASCAR track where you're stopping 100+mph about every 15-20 seconds which killed my stock brakes in just 3 laps, and we have a course that stops at most 30mph and no heavy brake zones where one could almost do a lap at a good speed without even touching them. My pads and rotors last close to a whole season, which might be 20 event days, and depend on which tracks I go to.

ChipG said:

I've started running NASA TT3 and my stellar performance last weekend (and the fact that I was the only TT3 car ) means I've won some Hawk bucks. Looking through threads on here, I'm not seeing a lot of love for the Hawk pads. Specifically, I'm seeing:
- They eat rotors like candy

Click to expand...

What are you doing on your out/parade lap?
If both your rotors and pads are cold, race compound brakes won't grip a thing, regardless of brand. Similar to shoving it in the missus raw, that friction isn't doing anybody any good.

Maxim_7k said:

Idk how are you guys are running on stock pads, they aren't good with constantly pushing the car through the whole session.

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Consider adding front brake cooling deflectors from Vorshlag. Simple bolt on. They kept the front pads consistent.

The GT350 OEM pads are actually pretty good - I've run NCM, Barber, Nashville, Road Atlanta, and Memphis with them (I switch out to different pads for the street for less dust and wear). Road Atlanta in a few weeks in probably hot weather will be a good test. I'm using Verus brake deflectors, Goodridge stainless lines, and Motul. My out lap is always a warm up lap for oil temp, tires, and brakes. That said, once oil and tires are warmer later in the day, only half a lap is really needed to get up to temp.

I really recommend Cobalt pads. I've never experienced anything better. They've taken over here at COTA - all the mustang and Porsches have started running them.

honeybadger said:

I really recommend Cobalt pads. I've never experienced anything better. They've taken over here at COTA - all the mustang and Porsches have started running them.

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I really want to try them, it’s just the price tag that’s got me held up. How’s the wear life compared to the raybestos you were using prior?

Scootsmcgreggor said:

I really want to try them, it’s just the price tag that’s got me held up. How’s the wear life compared to the raybestos you were using prior?

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Super similar. I got 6-7 days out of the Cobalts and 7-8 out of the Raybestos - but the Cobalts were far superior. And were a much more aggressive compound. An XR2/XR3 combo might compete with Raybestos on the longevity. The XR1/XR2 combo I ran is incredible - they won't overheat or fade and they're very linear.

Wanted to try those, but the cost is pretty much the same as the Pagid pads.

honeybadger said:

Super similar. I got 6-7 days out of the Cobalts and 7-8 out of the Raybestos - but the Cobalts were far superior. And were a much more aggressive compound. An XR2/XR3 combo might compete with Raybestos on the longevity. The XR1/XR2 combo I ran is incredible - they won't overheat or fade and they're very linear.

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thanks.

honeybadger said:

Super similar. I got 6-7 days out of the Cobalts and 7-8 out of the Raybestos - but the Cobalts were far superior. And were a much more aggressive compound. An XR2/XR3 combo might compete with Raybestos on the longevity. The XR1/XR2 combo I ran is incredible - they won't overheat or fade and they're very linear.

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What compounds would you suggest for 200TW tires? (e.g. Goodyear SC3’s and/or Conti ExtremeContact Force)

Maxim_7k said:

Idk how are you guys are running on stock pads, they aren't good with constantly pushing the car through the whole session. Idk how any of the aftermarket with track-specified compound could be worse, but anything possible I guess
I'm using Powerstop Trackday, cheap af and doing their job pretty good. Even wear, linear brake feel, no fade.
My stock rotors are almost cooked after 3000 racetrack kilometers and 4 sets of PS trackday pads - pretty good numbers for me, considering it's pretty heavy car.

Click to expand...

I ran the Powerstop Trackday front pads and they felt horrible, way worse than OEM pads, no bite and they caused such harsh vibrations on the rotors that I had to stop running them at NCM. They also don't last at all, I had the same experience running them on a Miata in terms of life, 3 track days and their done.

Last season I've been experimenting with cheap track brake offerings from Rockauto, and their not worth anyone's time, whether they're PowerStop or Dynamic Friction , just buy what's known!

dem00n said:

I ran the Powerstop Trackday front pads and they felt horrible, way worse than OEM pads, no bite and they caused such harsh vibrations on the rotors that I had to stop running them at NCM. They also don't last at all, I had the same experience running them on a Miata in terms of life, 3 track days and their done.

Last season I've been experimenting with cheap track brake offerings from Rockauto, and their not worth anyone's time, whether they're PowerStop or Dynamic Friction , just buy what's known!

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Weird. I have stock rotors, usually powerstop trackdays last around 700 track kilometers (I think that's good, no?). Strong bite, strong feel - complete opposite of the oem crap. OEM was cooked after first session on the proper track, never coming back in terms of braking power after that session.
I'm not into some crappy garage style carting tracks, braking zone from 200+ km/h is regular thing for me, so the load is real.

I have SPL front arms, so no vorshlag mode for me.

TMSBOSS said:

Consider adding front brake cooling deflectors from Vorshlag. Simple bolt on. They kept the front pads consistent.

Click to expand...

PaddyPrix said:

I think a lot of it has to do with specifics of the courses/layout and speeds at each, something we should all take into account... that, and if it's a fulltime race car or a street car, and whatever the minor differences are there. We have a course on a NASCAR track where you're stopping 100+mph about every 15-20 seconds which killed my stock brakes in just 3 laps, and we have a course that stops at most 30mph and no heavy brake zones where one could almost do a lap at a good speed without even touching them. My pads and rotors last close to a whole season, which might be 20 event days, and depend on which tracks I go to.

Click to expand...

Yep, same story. If track is proper fast course with hard braking, stock brakes are done in 1 session 100%. Changed the pads and fluid and it's no problem even on some hard on brakes track here (Sochi F1 for example).

Maxim_7k said:

I have SPL front arms, so no vorshlag mode for me.

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If you think about it, it's a flat plate with a bent lip on the outer edge, a few holes drilled, and then some threaded U bolts with washers and nuts going through those holes.

It's a nice one, but I'd bet if you wanted it bad enough, you could figure a way out to make something similar work.

PaddyPrix said:

If you think about it, it's a flat plate with a bent lip on the outer edge, a few holes drilled, and then some threaded U bolts with washers and nuts going through those holes.

It's a nice one, but I'd bet if you wanted it bad enough, you could figure a way out to make something similar work.

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yes, for sure. Will do duct mode later, but for now it's no need.