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Recommendations on a good starting brake pad

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190
71
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
New England
Simple setup, 11 GT, 4 pot brembos front, 14” gt500 setup in the rear. Suspension setup for street and inter track. Tires GY SC3, not R, Engine mostly stock. This is a fun street car to be tracked.

I expect to do some test and tune, brake balance etc. I am not looking for the final solution for the brakes, just something to get me started. I have enough track experience to know the stock pads won’t do it.

Cheap: targeting 2-3 track days, if they last longer great.
Streetable: they need to have enough cold bite to not get me killed. Don’t care about dust. It would be nice if they don’t screech.

Not sure on exact specs, maybe .45+ mu and 1200f temp. I do better with a low travel, high bite brake pedal for my style of heel toe. I also don’t care if the pad abuses rotors.

Thinking maybe ebc blue, maybe pst track day pads or dfc active performance or street/track. Also not looking to swap pads at this time, still looking for a double duty option.

Thank you,
 
No offense but I would not suggest Powerstops even to begin and as 0-man mentioned he has already moved on to a better pad. If you get G-Locs make sure they are pre-bedded ( major importance ) and you likely might want to start with a bit less aggressive pad up front ( say a 14 ) , and in the rear run at least a 10 ---staggering works great on the Mustang.

You might call Tim at OPMustang as he is a Sponsor , has a Mustang himself ,and he sells a boatload of G-Loc pads.
 
Eric is right, the company I worked for for 27 years also used EBC but just for lower dust levels, we never recommended for track use.

Alot of folks start with 12s, and they have good linear feel, but if you go to fast tracks or are really aggressive they will wear a bit faster than a 14 to an 18 G-Loc. I ran them on my Viper, knowing they would wear quicker but I loved the feel they had as very progressive. On my Mustangs I went right to 18s ( their Endurance pad ) as I brake super late. Danny Puskar ( owner ) actually gave me the first set of R-18s to try on a street car (my 12 CO Boss 302 ) years back when they were just starting that pad and had only used it for racing. I always felt that pad was what helped me outbrake a Porsche GT3 going into a fast right hand turn after the long straight at Hi Plains Raceway. I did send him back glowing reports and said make me and others more of these, ha. That was a long time ago...........
 
Good comment, I forgot as that was not their original use and I have used them for a super long time ---thanks Eric. Will recommend a lot more folks use 16s.
 
IP was looking for streetable starting point. I like R12 better than R16 on the street but I am lazy and run R16 on the street as well.
 
Most folks never take off their track pads and I guess I find 12 or 16 G-Locs just fine for the street or track and if the gentleman is going to do 2-3 track weekends and some test and tunes he is likely going to be exactly like you and I ( and the majority of drivers I know ) and not change out the track pads.
 
Semantics, ha. Good stopping pads are the only ones we all really need. If he wants a good beginning pad , and he wants to do some test and tune, and 2-3 track weekends, then most of us here will tell him to get a good track pad. Those of us who have been racing for years believe a good beginning pad is no less than what we would use and considering that stopping is actually the biggest concern on a road course, not a place to skimp , imho.
 
You're better off finding 80 virgins before you find a good street / track pad.

Best option is G-loc R12/10 for track and GS-1 for street. You can swap out and not have to clean up the rotors. I also recommend Ti shims.

Once you get faster then upgrade to something like Pagid track pads and whatever their street pad is thats compatible.
 
Thanks for all the feedback. Not being sure exactly sure where I will end up with this build or what the limitations will be, my preference would not be to try and predict my end point. Similar to dampers and tires, pads are not just about outright performance. There are nuances to how they feel that go to total value returned. Bottom line is my plan is to try different combinations, probably starting with less aggressive/expensive. However this is still a heavy, high power car, with an OK brake system. It sounds like the general advice is leaning to more aggressive to start.

What other manufacturers have you tried? Very familiar with g-loc from here. In a previous life I have gone through several carbotech pads. Tried some ebc pads and stop tech. Never considered Wilwood, but appreciate the recommendation.
 
Everyone has brake pad opinions, but since you asked for more... these pads are at the top-end of friction levels, but you can go lower within these brands...

I use Cobalt XR-1 front and XR-2 rear. They have a few other options, but are NOT cheap. They do last pretty well and I can do most of a year on a set.
I've also used Raybestos ST-47's and ST-43's, they last forever and work pretty well. I've used Pagid RST-3's front with RSL-29's rear, and I believe some use the 29's as fronts also.
Hawk has several track pads also, and I used some of theirs when I first started.
 
I ran Hawks with my '16 that was a fairly far out there track day only car. Dtc50 front and 30 rear. I found them to be very good in all respects. The pricing at the time was also very good, not sure were that's at now.

The worst thing I can say is they made lots of dust, but what track pad doesn't?
 
Do you mean ST47? I haven't used those but I have used the ST45 in front and ST43 in rear, and also ST45 front and rear. ST45 front and rear is my favorite setup on this car. I stopped using them because they were backordered forever at Porterfield.

Right now I'm using PFC 08 in front and rear. This combo is solid and seems to just work with no drama or odd feelings on the track with 200TW tires. Similar to ST45 but jury is out on whether these last as long, Porterfield says they won't. Very consistent throughout a 20 minute HPDE session. Cost less than Cobalt, more than Raybestos.

I've also used Cobalt XR1 up front with ST45 in rear when the Raybestos fronts were backordered, this setup was good but I think the XR1s were too aggressive for me and 200TW tires, way too easy to get into the ABS. XR2 probably would have been smarter or it could have been the mismatched compound in back. They lasted a long time and felt very consistent throughout a 20 minute HPDE session.

Worst pad so far has been Hawk DTC60 and I also ran these with the Raybestos ST45 rear. I didn't like this setup much. There was this odd feeling like the pad was cold going into every braking zone, as if the friction ramped up after the brakes were applied. They had good stopping power, didn't fade, and wore OK especially for the price. But they were definitely in a different tier than the other pads. People say the dust is hard on paint, it didn't seem much different from other pads I've run.
 
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