Recommendations on a good starting brake pad

[ShifterX]

So I picked up some track day pads. I will give them a try. I noticed they don’t come backing plate shims. Should I have shims with the brembo calipers? My thought is I will probably pick up some Ti shims for the track. But I am talking in the meantime, just street driving. Should I pickup some steel shims, or not needed?

 

[TMSBOSS]

So I picked up some track day pads. I will give them a try. I noticed they don’t come backing plate shims. Should I have shims with the brembo calipers? My thought is I will probably pick up some Ti shims for the track. But I am talking in the meantime, just street driving. Should I pickup some steel shims, or not needed?

Use the Ti shims. They will last.

 

[byronj]

So I picked up some track day pads. I will give them a try. I noticed they don’t come backing plate shims. Should I have shims with the brembo calipers? My thought is I will probably pick up some Ti shims for the track. But I am talking in the meantime, just street driving. Should I pickup some steel shims, or not needed?

Not required at all. Ti shims are primarily used to reduce heat transfer to the brake calipers. Get them when you start tracking and generating lot of heart.

 

[Mike_FL]

I still melted the dust seals on the caliper using the ti shims

 

[Bill Pemberton]

Best thing for brake heat --- duct work, duct shields, etc. Cool those muthas down and the life of everything will last longer.

 

[GJarrett]

Where's the best place to get ti shims?

 

[TMSBOSS]

OP Mustang. They are a site sponsor.

 

[MBalboni]

No offense but I would not suggest Powerstops even to begin and as 0-man mentioned he has already moved on to a better pad. If you get G-Locs make sure they are pre-bedded ( major importance ) and you likely might want to start with a bit less aggressive pad up front ( say a 14 ) , and in the rear run at least a 10 ---staggering works great on the Mustang.

You might call Tim at OPMustang as he is a Sponsor , has a Mustang himself ,and he sells a boatload of G-

No offense but I would not suggest Powerstops even to begin and as 0-man mentioned he has already moved on to a better pad. If you get G-Locs make sure they are pre-bedded ( major importance ) and you likely might want to start with a bit less aggressive pad up front ( say a 14 ) , and in the rear run at least a 10 ---staggering works great on the Mustang.

You might call Tim at OPMustang as he is a Sponsor , has a Mustang himself ,and he sells a boatload of G-Loc pads.

No offense but I would not suggest Powerstops even to begin and as 0-man mentioned he has already moved on to a better pad. If you get G-Locs make sure they are pre-bedded ( major importance ) and you likely might want to start with a bit less aggressive pad up front ( say a 14 ) , and in the rear run at least a 10 ---staggering works great on the Mustang.

You might call Tim at OPMustang as he is a Sponsor , has a Mustang himself ,and he sells a boatload of G-Loc pads.

Great recommendation @billpemberton I’ll try the 14/10 setup on my boss. My usage is road racing, spirited canyon carving twisties and an occasional road trip (not necessarily in that order). My car is not a daily driver, but an option as a grocery getter.

 

[EF1]

No offense but I would not suggest Powerstops even to begin and as 0-man mentioned he has already moved on to a better pad. If you get G-Locs make sure they are pre-bedded ( major importance ) and you likely might want to start with a bit less aggressive pad up front ( say a 14 ) , and in the rear run at least a 10 ---staggering works great on the Mustang.

You might call Tim at OPMustang as he is a Sponsor , has a Mustang himself ,and he sells a boatload of G-Loc pads.

Bill, R-14 is not recommended for Mustangs. It is for endurance racing light weight low horsepower cars. Go with R-12 or R-16 for the mustang.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

Thanks , I should have said R16 , though like Madhatter I only run R18s up front. It was started as an Endurance pad and Danny told me well over a decade back I had the first set sent to the general public to try ( ran them at Great Plains Raceway) . I still find experienced drivers or those running at really fast tracks might want to try them as the 12s will wear reasonably quickly at fast tracks. The 12s have superb feel ,though, and for those who don't mind changing them a bit more often the progressive feel that they have is really nice.

 

[EF1]

I ran most combinations of 16,12,10 front and 8,10,12 rear WR with the 14” 4 puston Brembos. I worked my way up from 10/8 to 16/12 as my driving improved. I found early on that I was out growing the pads as they wore out and just worked my way up the range. I have only run the 16/12 combination with the 15” 6 piston set up. I have not seen a need to move yo the R-18 yet.

 

[TMSBOSS]

My question to the question. Why not start where you believe you will finish? By using the pad that your car and driver will work in to. If the 16s are the logical end point, why not begin there? I went from stock Boss pass to pagid race pads. One transition, one move, done. BTW, I ran the same on the street. Yes, there was a slight squeak that the unknowing would mistake for a problem. I didn’t make the change for them. Stock pads and rotor went into a box and Girodisc and pagids went on. I would epsee a challenge if you transitioned to a lesser performing pads, that’s not the case. Buy once, cry once.

 

[EF1]

My question to the question. Why not start where you believe you will finish? By using the pad that your car and driver will work in to. If the 16s are the logical end point, why not begin there? I went from stock Boss pass to pagid race pads. One transition, one move, done. BTW, I ran the same on the street. Yes, there was a slight squeak that the unknowing would mistake for a problem. I didn’t make the change for them. Stock pads and rotor went into a box and Girodisc and pagids went on. I would epsee a challenge if you transitioned to a lesser performing pads, that’s not the case. Buy once, cry once.

In my case I did not know where I was going to end up. Hell I did not know where I was going. I was just starting out and changed things as I thought they were holding me back. If I started with the current brake set up in the beginning I would have been out braking the tires all the time. I was still on stock 255 Pirellis.

 

[TMSBOSS]

In my case I did not know where I was going to end up. Hell I did not know where I was going. I was just starting out and changed things as I thought they were holding me back. If I started with the current brake set up in the beginning I would have been out braking the tires all the time. I was still on stock 255 Pirellis.

Point taken. I guess I assumed the tires and wheel went first.

 

[Junkyard Dog]

In my case I did not know where I was going to end up. Hell I did not know where I was going. I was just starting out and changed things as I thought they were holding me back. If I started with the current brake set up in the beginning I would have been out braking the tires all the time. I was still on stock 255 Pirellis.

Are you still running 295/30/19 Toyo R tires as shown in your build thread?

 

[EF1]

I still have a set mounted up but they are pretty well aged out. I will need new tires before returning to the track. I will buy the Toyos again if they are available. I get a good price on them so they are a good value per track day.

 

[Junkyard Dog]

I still have a set mounted up but they are pretty well aged out. I will need new tires before returning to the track. I will buy the Toyos again if they are available. I get a good price on them so they are a good value per track day.

Do you have any comparison in how they perform with another tire, like, just for example, the Goodyear Eagle Supercar 3R?

 

[EF1]

I have not run the Goodyears. I was running 275 wide Hankook Rs4 or 285 Toyo R888r before these R

 

[Junkyard Dog]

I have read other comparisons where they are significantly faster than the older Toyo R888R. How did they compare to that and to the Hankook RS4, and how did the longevity compare?

 

[EF1]

I have not been on track in awhile due to some health issues but if my memory is correct a bit faster than both. They held up to heat better than the R888r no chunking. Life is a little less than R888r but pretty close. The RS4 will outlast them both and it is useable in the wet within reason. I wish the RS4 came in 295.

The 295 Proxes R is a bargain. I can get them with discounts for around $1,200 for 4 do if I get 4-5 weekends out of them I am happy.