Hey all I have a ‘21 Mach 1 with handling package parts and some aftermarket parts for better alignment. I do maybe 4-8 track days a year and run 200TW 305’s square. For my purposes I need to keep at or close to factory ride height and good ride while keeping the dust boot (I drive on some roads where I don’t want the shaft exposed). I’m running HP rear springs (742) and GT500 CFTP front springs (268) that I just mounted on the struts. I haven’t installed the struts yet so this a prime time to upgrade the front sway bar. I just so happen to have a Steeda front bar, but the factory Mach 1 bar is a bonded bushing bar. I’ve heard this is to help on center feel, but I’ve also heard it is to help add spring rate in bump (bonded so there is resistance not just in roll). Would it be a bad idea to ditch the factory bonded bar when running soft/compromised front springs? Obviously the steeda bar would greatly increase roll stiffness in the front, but would I miss the added rate? Right now it’s easy to swap bars since struts are out.

With the factory HP setup I felt the car a little too loose, including some corner entry oversteer. I could drive around this, but I feel it could be better.


Factory front sway bar
GT500 CFTP 268# front springs
Steeda camber plates and enlarged opening
-3.5 camber
Zero toe

HP 742# rear springs
24mm solid HP rear sway bar
BMR CB005
AAD camber arms
AAD vertical links
Cortex toe links
Ford Performance toe knuckle bearings
-2.0 camber
0.24* total toe in

305/30/19 200TW tires square on 19x11’s

Contact Sam Strano. His rear ARB is the one you're looking for. It's adjustable and has a better range. My car came with the 24mm RARB as well and it's too much. I run the 20mm bar off of a V6 Convertible, but when I buy one, it will be Sam's. It's not listed on his site, but call him and you'll either be able to get one or get on the list for the next run.

Replacing the rear lower control arm bush and toe link bush with bearings would also be a good idea. They do nothing for NHV.

TeeLew said:

Replacing the rear lower control arm bush and toe link bush with bearings would also be a good idea. They do nothing for NHV.

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Thanks. I have the toe bearings and I actually pulled the knuckles to press the bushings out and bearings in. I regret not doing the control arm at the same time.

I’ll give Sam a call. I did find references to his rear bar. Of the aftermarket ones it’s frustrating because most are far too stiff and the steeda comp looks too soft. I’ve debated putting the non-HP 24mm rear bar on (it’s hollow) but may need softer.

My opinion is that we don't need much rear bar. If running unhooked, it disconnects the car front-to-rear a little too much. The grip is awesome, but it needs a little bit of rear bar to make it turn and tighten transitions. Sam's bar spans a range that runs from about my 20mm bar to about the 24mm solid.

There are a couple of places/situations that I can see wanting that much rear bar, but generally speaking, I think something on the low side would be the better choice, especially on tracks that have several traction corners.

TeeLew said:

My opinion is that we don't need much rear bar. If running unhooked, it disconnects the car front-to-rear a little too much. The grip is awesome, but it needs a little bit of rear bar to make it turn and tighten transitions. Sam's bar spans a range that runs from about my 20mm bar to about the 24mm solid.

There are a couple of places/situations that I can see wanting that much rear bar, but generally speaking, I think something on the low side would be the better choice, especially on tracks that have several traction corners.

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I meant to ask, what is your opinion on changing the front bar? It was your comments I had seen regarding to the bonded bushings adding wheel rate. I’m a little hesitant to give that up given how soft the CFTP springs still are. That being said a rear bar will likely fix most of my current criticisms.

RobZ71LM7 said:

I meant to ask, what is your opinion on changing the front bar? It was your comments I had seen regarding to the bonded bushings adding wheel rate. I’m a little hesitant to give that up given how soft the CFTP springs still are. That being said a rear bar will likely fix most of my current criticisms.

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Obviously, I think more spring stiffness is best, but if you're running the CFTP front spring, then it's a toss-up.

You want both more roll stiffness and more ride stiffness. The bonded bushings gives you a bit of ride stiffness, so probably a good thing. With the adjustable rear bar, you'll be able to find something that balances it. But, more front roll stiffness would be nice to improve response and try to limit the camber loss on the loaded tire.

This is probably zero help, but you'll just have to put one on and try it.