I want to try Ferodo DS1.11 in the front on my 2017 Mustang GT PP1. I can't find a Ferodo offering for the rear. Would Pagid RSL29 be a good option to run in the rear or is combining brands with different compounds a bad idea?

Some said to use OEM rear pads, but I found out that these are made by PFC with the EF compound, not by Ferodo (part number FR3Z2200G).

Last time I ran OEM pads (in street mode) I fried them, now I drive in track mode so don't know if they will keep up with proper front pads.

Suggestions, ideas, any experience with said combo? I drive mostly at very brake heavy tracks and have yet to find a brake pad that doesn't glaze.

I've been using the DS1.11 in my car and haven't been impressed. they're fine, but the Cobalts are better. I liked the Cobalt XR1s. I ran XR1 in the rear as well to help with turn in a bit. Favorite pads by far.

The DS1.11s are probably fine for 90% of folks. I just didn't think they had the reliable bite when hot. I could never overheat the Cobalts

Realized I didnt answer your question. From what I've read, the RSL29 pad is a less aggressive pad than the Ferrodos. Personally, I like running the same compound (or characteristics) on front and rear.

The more important consideration is if the compound is compatible with what was run on the rotor before it? Are the rotors new? or did you use a different pad on them before? Mixing compounds/brands on the same rotor is usually frowned upon without at least turning the rotor first.

Any reason you wouldn't just go RSL29 all round. They just work all the time every time for me. Actually except in the wet where they may have too much bite for a pure road tyre. On track with 200TW can't fault them.

Combining different pads / brands is not a bad idea. Its what your looking for in your braking. Ive seen people run RSL29 in front and stock in rear. They like it and it works for them. I was in a bind and ran out out Padgid fronts and had to use Raybestos (whatever I brought). It was different than what I was used to but it worked for the day and come to find out. I liked it after I got the feel of it. The key thing is to make sure the pads and rotors used with materials that like each other. I hope that makes sense

Walt said:

I want to try Ferodo DS1.11 in the front on my 2017 Mustang GT PP1. I can't find a Ferodo offering for the rear. Would Pagid RSL29 be a good option to run in the rear or is combining brands with different compounds a bad idea?

Some said to use OEM rear pads, but I found out that these are made by PFC with the EF compound, not by Ferodo (part number FR3Z2200G).

Last time I ran OEM pads (in street mode) I fried them, now I drive in track mode so don't know if they will keep up with proper front pads.

Suggestions, ideas, any experience with said combo? I drive mostly at very brake heavy tracks and have yet to find a brake pad that doesn't glaze.

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Do you have any brake cooling modifications like the scoops or deflectors some companies offer?

I have ran Pagid RST3 up front with the RSL29 in the rear. Then I went to GLOC R12 in the rear and fell in like with that combo. No issues there.

GAR944 said:

Any reason you wouldn't just go RSL29 all round. They just work all the time every time for me. Actually except in the wet where they may have too much bite for a pure road tyre. On track with 200TW can't fault them.

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I've heard mixed reactions about them overheating. My tracks are very demanding and their temp rating is only 1380f. I had DBA Race performance pads before with the same temp rating and I glazed those.

It's the third time I'm getting new pads because of overheating issues so I'm looking to get something that will last me.

biggsy said:

Do you have any brake cooling modifications like the scoops or deflectors some companies offer?

I have ran Pagid RST3 up front with the RSL29 in the rear. Then I went to GLOC R12 in the rear and fell in like with that combo. No issues there.

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Yes I do have deflectors in the front.

I actually wanted to get GLOC R12 front and R10 rear at first, but another member here mentioned issues with ABS triggering on 200TW tires. He went with Ferodo DSUNO pads and OEM rear. I figured I should try Ferodo DS1.11 which is more endurance focussed but I don't trust the rear OEM pads to hold up. The OEM pads in the front are made by Ferodo and tuned DS2500, but the rear is not, they are PFC. DS2500 does not exist for the rear.

Looking to get a setup that will finally hold up on my most demanding tracks.

Walt said:

Yes I do have deflectors in the front.

I actually wanted to get GLOC R12 front and R10 rear at first, but another member here mentioned issues with ABS triggering on 200TW tires. He went with Ferodo DSUNO pads and OEM rear. I figured I should try Ferodo DS1.11 which is more endurance focussed but I don't trust the rear OEM pads to hold up. The OEM pads in the front are made by Ferodo and tuned DS2500, but the rear is not, they are PFC. DS2500 does not exist for the rear.

Looking to get a setup that will finally hold up on my most demanding tracks.

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Understood.
Cobalt XR1/2
Pagid RST3
GLOC R16/18
Hawk DTC-60/70

All viable options for front.

How is your braking technique? I have read stabbing the brakes instead of squeezing them can play a part

biggsy said:

Understood.
Cobalt XR1/2
Pagid RST3
GLOC R16/18
Hawk DTC-60/70

All viable options for front.

How is your braking technique? I have read stabbing the brakes instead of squeezing them can play a part

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Difficult to say, I try to brake hard and late on the same exact reference points. Sometimes I do end up braking a bit longer because of traffic.

I have an old video of me on street tires at the end of their service life (went all out on them, I know I was overdriving them had too much fun to stop). I run 200TW since and have improved my technique + alignment, no more screeching tires.

I hope the quality is good enough and maybe it can help explaining my brake technique.

Walt said:

Difficult to say, I try to brake hard and late on the same exact reference points. Sometimes I do end up braking a bit longer because of traffic.

I have an old video of me on street tires at the end of their service life (went all out on them, I know I was overdriving them had too much fun to stop). I run 200TW since and have improved my technique + alignment, no more screeching tires.

I hope the quality is good enough and maybe it can help explaining my brake technique.

zolder.mp4

drive.google.com

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that's a fun looking track!

Based on that video, I'd recommend something like the Cobalt XR3s or XR2s. The XR2 would be my choice - bit more bite than you probably use right now, but a more agressive pad can be very helpful in learning how to maximize braking, IMHO. if you're constantly instinctively hitting through before apex, you're braking too early. If you're chirping tires right before turn in, you're ramping too slowly (this looked to happen a couple times in the video).

I like aggressive pads because if I trigger ABS, it means I need to smooth out my brake application. its great feedback

honeybadger said:

that's a fun looking track!

Based on that video, I'd recommend something like the Cobalt XR3s or XR2s. The XR2 would be my choice - bit more bite than you probably use right now, but a more agressive pad can be very helpful in learning how to maximize braking, IMHO. if you're constantly instinctively hitting through before apex, you're braking too early. If you're chirping tires right before turn in, you're ramping too slowly (this looked to happen a couple times in the video).

I like aggressive pads because if I trigger ABS, it means I need to smooth out my brake application. its great feedback

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Thanks I'll look into those if they can ship to me. Ferodo DS1.11 is half the price but if the Cobalts are better and won't overheat I'd rather spend once and cry once.

The track is indeed very fun, Circuit Zolder in Belgium. It is used as a training circuit for juniors to start racing on the Nürburgring, as it is a similar technical, narrow track with some elevation changes. Very fun but also very hard on the cars. It is closest to me so it is where I do most of my driving. Spa Francorchamps is less accessible with only a handful open trackdays a year, but much easier on the car and brakes hold up just fine.

Walt said:

The track is indeed very fun, Circuit Zolder in Belgium. It is used as a training circuit for juniors to start racing on the Nürburgring, as it is a similar technical, narrow track with some elevation changes. Very fun but also very hard on the cars. It is closest to me so it is where I do most of my driving. Spa Francorchamps is less accessible with only a handful open trackdays a year, but much easier on the car and brakes hold up just fine.

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Do you ever go not so far away (approximately 100 km) to Spa Francorchamps? I have watched videos from in car, and that track looks to be very fun.

Junkyard Dog said:

Do you ever go not so far away (approximately 100 km) to Spa Francorchamps? I have watched videos from in car, and that track looks to be very fun.

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Yes I do it is my favorite track to drive, but like I said only a handful open trackdays a year so I'm usually only going once or twice a year.

8 days ago

July 29

August 18

September 6

October 11

Four more this year! Wish I could join you!

Junkyard Dog said:

Public Driving Experience: The track is yours!

Discover the Circuit de Spa-Francorchamps at the wheel of your own car! Sessions of 1 or 4 runs. Book now!

www.spa-francorchamps.be

8 days ago

July 29

August 18

September 6

October 11

Four more this year! Wish I could join you!

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Yes I'm going September 6 and maybe if the weather is still good October 11. I've met some US soldiers that track their imported American cars over here, so I guess that's one way to make it happen . They told me they even pay US fuel prices at our pumps, lucky!

LOL. I lived not far away in Bitburg in the 80s, and, yes, it was nice paying US prices for gasoline. It is limited per month to so many gallons, though.

Junkyard Dog said:

LOL. I lived not far away in Bitburg in the 80s, and, yes, it was nice paying US prices for gasoline. It is limited per month to so many gallons, though.

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Oh didn't know it was limited but kind of makes sense.

I have a little video of 2 laps where I'm racing a 1973 Porsche 911 Carrera RS 2.7. One of my more interesting clips there. He got a blue flag a couple of times and was later black flagged due to not letting me pass but I didn't mind it was pretty fun we talked afterwards. I love finding someone with a similar car and skill compared to my own and try to keep up (if they are open for it).

If you listen closely you can hear the vibration/judder from the brakes I'm struggling with. As you can see the whole camera and car shakes everytime I apply the brake due to the deposits (or warped rotors but doubt it). I hope Ferodo DS1.11 will be enough and if not the Cobalt XR2.


If you listen even closer you can hear I have an Ecoboost engine, but I swapped the 6 POT brakes of a GT so it's easier to just tell people I have a GT PP1 for brake advice. Even swapped the front splitter and belly pan for the cooling.

Wow, he was obviously much slower in the turns but did not want to let you by, forcing you to drive beside him in the turns.

I like those flashing light flags. Much easier to see.

Why did he not see them?

Junkyard Dog said:

Wow, he was obviously much slower in the turns but did not want to let you by, forcing you to drive beside him in the turns.

I like those flashing light flags. Much easier to see.

Why did he not see them?

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I'm pretty sure he did see them, his ego was just too big. But like I said makes it even more fun when you do eventually pass those people (as long as it can happen safely). When he missed his corner I saw an opportunity but still hesitated a bit because I wasn't sure he actually saw me.

Usually driving a bit closer makes them aware that you are faster but some just don't want to budge. Happens a lot that others are much faster on a straight but then slow you down in the corners and you can't really pass them.

We don't have a point by system like in the US, it's more like a free for all race but if you get the signal you are kind of supposed to move over. Ignoring to do so results in a black flag with the better organizations, some just don't care and you see all kinds of crazy driving like 4 people passing each other.