How often do you replace your seals or brake calipers and rotors? And or did you get sick of doing this and go to a bigger brake kit?

[EF1]

I take them to a local heat treating shop that has a cryogenic tank. He does 4 rotors for me for around 125.00. It’s a no brainer.

I wish I had a cryo treater near me.

 

[Fabman]

I wish I had a cryo treater near me.

I use garner heat treating in San Leandro. I will post contact info tomorrow.

 

[EF1]

I use garner heat treating in San Leandro. I will post contact info tomorrow.

I am in East Tennessee. The closest I have found is 3 1/2 hours away.

 

[Ewheels]

2022 Mach 1 with 14,000 miles and 8 1/2 track days at Summit Point and VIR together. A couple days in cold rain.
It seems odd to me that my rear seals were cooked and my calipers seem to be getting overly hot, according to my Performance shop.
Also I drive with the car in track mode, which also is claimed to decrease rear brake usage thereby decreasing rear brake wear. Also at times I have driven with advanced track off also.
How many of you went to big brake kits either just the rear or all the way around?
To me, it seems very shortsighted by the manufacturer, for me/us to have to change the calipers this often.
I use DBA single piece rotors and I have the oversized VORSHLAG brake duct in the front. As far as I know there’s nothing for the rear.
I have changed the G-Loc brake pads four times and rotors 3x already. This does not seem normal to me, but I am new. Do you guys change your brake pads, rotors and calipers this often?
Your wisdom is appreciated.

OP Mustang sells caliper temp stickers. You stick them right on the caliper surface. That will tell you the temp they are getting to and that could give you some insight if they are getting to an absurd temperature.

I also run DBA single piece rotors with Hawk DTC 60 pads but have used GLOC in the past but I have never had heat issues as you are describing. I think something else is going on here.

 

[Fabman]

I am in East Tennessee. The closest I have found is 3 1/2 hours away.

When you order new ones have them drop shipped there and then shipped to you when done.

 

[cjatrains]

My experience: I own a 2022 Mach 1, A10, Handling Package. I have been doing 8-9 track days per season, Lime Rock Park, CT and Watkins Glen Int'l, NY

Front Brake History:
Installed a set of expensive PFC 2 piece rotors, they cracked after 8 track days 1 st season. Went back to running Factory Ford OEM rotors, they last the same # of track days. So I am currently on my 3rd set of front rotors.

I installed the Titanium heat shields in my factory Brembo calipers on year 1, because I had them leftover from my C7 Corvette that I had converted to the larger GS/Z06 front brakes, they fit fine and I haven't complete scorched a set of seals or dust boot covers yet.

I have been using the EBC SR-11 Sintered Metallic brake pads up front, yes they aren't made for the s550 Brembos, but I have figured out how to remove about 1/4" of the pad and Stainless Steel backing plate on the inner circumference and they fit and run fine. I do rotate them every 2-3 track days so the pad taper doesn't shorten the life I get out of the pads. Been consistently getting 8 track days on these pads.

The Mach 1 came with the Shelby plastic brake cooling deflectors, and I added the larger aluminum ones and installed them behind the factory Shelby deflectors.

Rear Brakes:

Left everything stock, on my third set of rotors back there as well. Ran one set of GLOC, 10's or 12's, barely made it through the first season. Ran stock pads for 1-2 track days, it was clear they weren't going to last even 4 days.

Switched over to Pagid RSL-29s they will almost make it through an 8 day season.

Yes I run in Track Mode weather permitting, I have somewhere near 40-44 track days since 2020. Ran the 1st 2 seasons with Cup 2's, then switched over Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar 3 tires, (220 TW). Typical lap times at 1.5 mile Lime Rock park track = 1.03 to 1:04. WGI long course 3.45 miles, running 2:15 to 2:20. So not the fastest guy out there but not "scenic" driving either.

Typical brake zone g's are 1.0 to 1.2.

Haven't decided to try running with Ford Stability control shut off. It's really frustrating how much rear brake Ford is engaging to stop the car from rotating, way worse than my 2015 C7 Z51 car.

Purchased APEX VS-5RS lightweight forged wheels saved 50 pounds total rotating mass for the 4 corners. As much as I like the lightweight 2 piece rotors, it's not worth the price differential to me to run them as the OEM boat anchors seem to last just as long.

I tried calling and emailing two cryo treatment companies here in MASS, neither one replied !!

I'd like to get a set frozen and heat treated and see if it helps with the thermal heat cycle cracking that ruins these rotors after 8 track days, but it's not worth spending hundreds to do that as I get a good deal from the local Ford dealer on rotors

 

[Mad Hatter]

OP Mustang sells caliper temp stickers. You stick them right on the caliper surface. That will tell you the temp they are getting to and that could give you some insight if they are getting to an absurd temperature.

I also run DBA single piece rotors with Hawk DTC 60 pads but have used GLOC in the past but I have never had heat issues as you are describing. I think something else is going on here.

It depends on your use. When I did track days aganist the clock the discs would last a season. Switching to W2W with 20min heats upped the heat and mente that the discs lasted a much less. Also the track you go to! Braking from 145mph to 50mph makes a huge difference

 

[Fabman]

This is who I use:

Metal Heat Treating in the Bay Area | Metal Hardening Service

Garner Heat Treat Inc is a professional metal heat treating company who provides hardening services throughout the Bay Area. Visit our website for details.

garnerheattreatinginc.com