For me, If I'm using a the 29 on the front should be matched with a 19.5 on the rear. Run lower friction on the rear than the front. The DS1.11 is a similar friction level to the 29.
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Ferodo DS1.11 Front and Pagid RSL29 Rear, good combination?
- Thread starterWalt
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For me, If I'm using a the 29 on the front should be matched with a 19.5 on the rear. Run lower friction on the rear than the front. The DS1.11 is a similar friction level to the 29.
- Thread starter
- #22
I'm planning on using DS1.11 on the front, and RSL29 on the rear.
Aren't they like super expensive though in Europe I seen prices as high as 800€ for front pads only. The DSUno's that I run are like 400€. Otherwise yeah Pagid RSL29 all around or just on the back should work fine. My understanding is the OEM rear pads have a Mu of 0.43 while Pagid has 0.45. The whole idea of running low Mu pads on the back is to not trigger Ice Mode (this mostly why Gloc try to suggest staggered pads front/rear). I'm Actually happy with how the DSUno/DS2500 pads combo works on my S550 Mustang. Here is data of every option I tested:
That data clearly shows that less aggressive rear pads actually make more stopping power. Hope this helps.
- Thread starter
- #25
You were the one that actually inspired me to try Ferodo DS1.11/DSUNO. Before I wanted to get Carbotech XP12 and XP10.
The thing I'm unsure about is the OEM pads for the rear, because I did have them on my car while I had the OEM in the front also, and still overheated both axles. Maybe if I do run a more aggressive pad in the front, it does more work and the rear does not overheat but I am not sure.
I went to the dealer and they showed me all their rear OEM pads for the Mustang, and none were actually made by Ferodo. Ferodo DS2500 does not exist for the rear, there is no available pad shape for the rear either.
The rear OEM brake pad part number is FR3Z2200G, and these are made by PFC, unkown compound, (EF friction code). So I think you have these too, maybe you could see what is printed on the back? If you have these exact pads and experience no issues, I think I'm going to try those too.
The front OEM pads are indeed Ferodo DS2500 derived, but the rears are not.
Pagid RSL29 fronts are indeed very expensive. The rears are €300. Front DS1.11/DSUNO is €350-400. My raceshop (mosa frein) recommended to run RSL29 on the rear in combination with the DS1.11 but that is probably because that is the only rear pad they carry, hence asking here for more advice.
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- #26
I misread that, you meant I should run RSL19.5 on the rear together with DS1.11 in the front? I was under the impression that RSL29 had a lower friction and bite than DS1.11 so it would be fine. I just wanted to mention that I was intending to run RSL29 in the rear and not in the front.
I use the OEM brake pads mostly to not trigger the Ice Mode and I'm happy with how they perform on my car the Gloc R8s were also lasting a hell of a lot of time and so are the OEM rear brake pads. My DSUno pads got down to 25% after around 120 laps but most of my tracks are really brake intensive. For comparison my Gloc R12s lasted 231 laps so they last twice as much as the DSUno pads but the R12s were mostly running on OEM disks while the DSUno were run on slotted disks. Previously the OEM pads survived 1 day of not heavy running. The DSUno handle temperature better than R12s which were showing signs of glazing. As you can see from data I even run R16/R12 front/rear and that was terrible to run on the car as the braking was severely compromised. And even at 25% fronts and completely gone rear pads I managed to record 180-100 km/h braking in 2.18s the other day in my local track same time a G82 M4 on Slicks recored a 2.71s 180-100 km/h braking and that car has bigger brakes and Pagid RSL29 pads with auto transmission and slick tires. So yeah I'm sure the OEM rear brake pads work and that they are great for stopping. If you actually look at the date the first data point (DS2500) is actually the OEM braking system so that is 3rd best in that list actually besides the R8s the OEM rear brake pads were holding the 2 fastest times while the rear R12 were obviously the slowest. When I take my rear pads out will look into what it said for a parts code.
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- #28
If you can still see it because my printing was burned off due to heat
But let me know if you still see it or when you get a new set what it says on the back. OEM rear pads are pretty cheap so I might just try like you said, thanksTo an extend this was just what I had in the garage when I decided to test Front DSUno's but as seen by the data it worked really great. I would advice you to get DSUno and not DS1.11 as the DSUno has more bite but still won't overtake the ABS which after 3 seasons of fighting with it really feels great to finally not worry if I will brake or not.If you can still see it because my printing was burned off due to heat
- Thread starter
- #30
Okay, I'll get DSUno then. I thought I could get away with DS1.11 because they have slightly less mu, are supposed to last longer, and I have an Ecoboost so it should be slightly lighter. I have swapped GT PP1 brakes so it is easier just telling people I have that for brake advice. But I'd rather spend once so I'll get the DSUno.
make sure to say Hi would love to talk in PersonYes I'm going September 6 and maybe if the weather is still good October 11. I've met some US soldiers that track their imported American cars over here, so I guess that's one way to make it happen
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- #32
I will!make sure to say Hi would love to talk in Person
Also saw the video from Spa some serious driving that was ! You are really pushing that Mustang !
It'll probably be fine. I haven't used a Ferrodo pad in a long time. I have nothing against them, I've just used other manufacturers. It looked like those two pads were similar friction?
When I run Pagid, regardless of what I run on the front, I end up with the 19.5 on the rear (after trying others). It's not just an issue of the ABS, but I've found overall locking, modulation and release is better with a pretty mild rear pad.
I'm an Eco guy, BTW. Make sure to keep the water/oil temps as low as you can. That's where people get into trouble with the Eco.
- Thread starter
- #35
Thank you! Third time ever at Spa, after a 4 year break. First time ever with a proper setup (AD09 + some camber) except for the brakes. You can clearly hear the judder and vibrations from the pads so that is what I'm trying to desperately fix now.
I'm trying to go more often to Spa now because I really enjoy that track and I feel more comfortable pushing it because of the bigger (hardened) runoffs. If you miss a corner slightly it is not too big of a deal, unlike Zolder or Nordschleife where you hit the grass and spin.
- Thread starter
- #36
Yes the oil temps is what I have been struggeling with too. I just do a cooldown lap or two when I hit yellow on the oil gauge. I usually feel like the brakes are getting sketchy before that happens so I back off anyway. Was thinking about installing an oil cooler but read that it doesn't fix the limp mode because it is a calculated PID, the computer doesn't know the actual oil temperature.
We can start another thread on this. Not trying to highjack this one.
Yes, It's actually a water temperature issue, but we see it first in the oil temp alarm. When running these engines competitively, the optimum temp is 78-82 C. It's basically impossible to over-cool an Eco.
I think if you really wanted to run an Eco correctly, we'd probably have to run a Shelby or M1 nose. Put an auxiliary rad on one side and an oil cooler in the other.
Yes, It's actually a water temperature issue, but we see it first in the oil temp alarm. When running these engines competitively, the optimum temp is 78-82 C. It's basically impossible to over-cool an Eco.
I think if you really wanted to run an Eco correctly, we'd probably have to run a Shelby or M1 nose. Put an auxiliary rad on one side and an oil cooler in the other.
That is a huge difference for the Ferodo pads at the bottom of your chart.
Too bad they make nothing at all for the S650. At least not yet. My brakes performed so well with the stock pads, at least for my beginner driving, that I will probably stick with stock pads for a while, anyway.
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