So I had the Exedy clutch installed after blowing mine up last month. I‘m well into the break-in period, but the car won’t go right into reverse when I start it in the morning. I have to push in the clutch 1 or 2 times and go into 1st or 2nd gear beforehand. Once I’ve done this, the shifter goes where I want it to normally. Once the car is warmed up, it will still happen after shutting the car off and parking it, but less frequently. While moving, at no time has there been any issue with extra resistance or refusing to switch gears - On the fly it seems just fine, shifts smoothly every time. But I've yet to shift at over 3000 rpm, if that matters. The brakes feel great.

The guy who did the install thinks most likely there is a little air in the system and a bleed should take care of it. Interested in any tales on that and, more urgently, can I Autocross the car and run it hard? I have no time to deal with it before the event Sunday.

Thanks, as always, from the forum ignoramus!

Exedy wants a break in before beating on it. I think it is 1000 miles, been a while since I did mine so not positive on that.

If it goes into gear smoothly with the engine off and takes a little effort with it on it probably has some air in it still. Vacuum bleeding should help.

JDee said:

Exedy wants a break in before beating on it. I think it is 1000 miles, been a while since I did mine so not positive on that.

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500 city miles

EF1 said:

If it goes into gear smoothly with the engine off and takes a little effort with it on it probably has some air in it still. Vacuum bleeding should help.

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Thanks. So why, once it goes into gear after another try or two, does it perform without issue? I don’t understand how when moving it then shifts gears nicely and smoothly.

And can anyone tell me if it’s ok to race the car with this? I’m assuming no, to be conservative, until I understand what’s up.

I don't see an aftermarket shifter in your build thread. The OEMs are not durable in any way. Maybe it got tweeted with the clutch install. Before I installed the MGW I could hardly ever get in 1st gear without cycling down from 3rd. In higher rpms everything was "kinda" ok - way too much play. The MGW was the best money I spent on upgrades.

If there's air in the lines there are good tips for bleeding in this thread.

If it crunches going into reverse the clutch is dragging. Either still has air in the system or the release bearing is not setup correctly. The other test would be start car, put in any other gear then slide it into reverse, grind or no grind? Now pop it into neutral, release clutch, now disengage clutch again and try reverse again, does it grind again? All the forward gears have syncro's and they will stop a lightly dragging clutch, reverse will grind if the clutch is dragging. One other test, put rear axle on jack stands, run in any gear, have someone watch rear tire. disengage clutch, keep it in gear, stop tires with brakes, let off brakes, wheels start turning again? You have a dragging clutch. A clutch that doesn't fully release will destroy the syncro's in your forward gears.

KazarS197 said:

I don't see an aftermarket shifter in your build thread. The OEMs are not durable in any way. Maybe it got tweeted with the clutch install. Before I installed the MGW I could hardly ever get in 1st gear without cycling down from 3rd. In higher rpms everything was "kinda" ok - way too much play. The MGW was the best money I spent on upgrades.

If there's air in the lines there are good tips for bleeding in this thread.

Brake flush. Flush clutch as well?

Each year I do a full flush of my brake fluid with rbf600. Curious though, should I also be flushing out the clutch line as well?

trackmustangsonline.com

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Correct. Stock shifter. Probably should’ve done it when the clutch was replaced but $$$ and timing was terrible. And thanks for the link to bleeding procedure!

xr7 said:

If it crunches going into reverse the clutch is dragging. Either still has air in the system or the release bearing is not setup correctly. The other test would be start car, put in any other gear then slide it into reverse, grind or no grind? Now pop it into neutral, release clutch, now disengage clutch again and try reverse again, does it grind again? All the forward gears have syncro's and they will stop a lightly dragging clutch, reverse will grind if the clutch is dragging. One other test, put rear axle on jack stands, run in any gear, have someone watch rear tire. disengage clutch, keep it in gear, stop tires with brakes, let off brakes, wheels start turning again? You have a dragging clutch. A clutch that doesn't fully release will destroy the syncro's in your forward gears.

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Thank you. I’ve done the first two, but not once has there been any crunch. It just won’t go into reverse. Stressing here that I‘m not pushing much harder than normal or trying to force it in. Maybe it would crunch if I did? If it doesn’t go easily, I lift off the clutch, depress again, and put it into first or 2nd gear (this works on first or second try) then it will go into reverse nice and easy.

To your point about the synchros, I wish I had taken this issue more seriously before putting hundreds of street miles on it!

G-HORCE said:

Thank you. I’ve done the first two, but not once has there been any crunch. It just won’t go into reverse. Stressing here that I‘m not pushing much harder than normal or trying to force it in. Maybe it would crunch if I did? If it doesn’t go easily, I lift off the clutch, depress again, and put it into first or 2nd gear (this works on first or second try) then it will go into reverse nice and easy.

To your point about the synchros, I wish I had taken this issue more seriously before putting hundreds of street miles on it!

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The syncro's are sort of like a clutch, the purpose of the syncro is to match the transmissions input speed to the output speed by grabbing its mating surface on the gear just before the syncro engages the gear. This keeps the gears from grinding. That's why you don't get a grind engaging forward gears but reverse does. Engaging a forward gear before engaging reverse can help if you have a dragging clutch but the syncro is getting worked harder than normal.
Honda used an automated manual trans in late 80's vintage Civic's. The trans had a torque convertor, no clutch. Every time when you back the car out of the garage in the morning it would crunch going into reverse. Throw it in drive first then select reverse, no crunch.

Did you replace your pilot bearing?

I have made a few threads on here and FB about a similar issue. With the engine running whether its in the morning when i first get in, or at a stop light, I cannot shift into 1st. I would have to turn the car off then shift into 1st then turn the car back on. I replaced all the hydraulic stuff and took it back to the dealer multiple times. I contacted Ford Performance and they suggested it was the pilot bearing. Another person on FB had the same issue and fixed it by replacing the pilot bearing. I've been dealing with it since Feb 2021 (too stubborn to pay to get it done). Wish i thought about it when the dealer replaced the clutch for me.

biggsy said:

Did you replace your pilot bearing?

I have made a few threads on here and FB about a similar issue. With the engine running whether its in the morning when i first get in, or at a stop light, I cannot shift into 1st. I would have to turn the car off then shift into 1st then turn the car back on. I replaced all the hydraulic stuff and took it back to the dealer multiple times. I contacted Ford Performance and they suggested it was the pilot bearing. Another person on FB had the same issue and fixed it by replacing the pilot bearing. I've been dealing with it since Feb 2021 (too stubborn to pay to get it done). Wish i thought about it when the dealer replaced the clutch for me.

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Thanks. No, I believe only the release bearing was included with the kit. Will make sure the tech is aware of your story.

Is the disc installed the correct way facing the flywheel? I put mine in backwards and it won't fully release. Pulled trans and fixed it. Sounds alot like your symptoms.

Did you ever figure this out. I have the same clutch, have driven 1000 miles and have been having the exact same issue...

Ended up being pilot bearing for me

biggsy said:

Ended up being pilot bearing for me

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Mine came with the Exedy throw out bearing/slave thing is the pilot bearing separate?

maxt20 said:

Mine came with the Exedy throw out bearing/slave thing is the pilot bearing separate?

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Yes it is. $20 part but requires dropping transmission

Just posting this here for reference for people finding this thread in a search. It's a "what else should I replace if I'm replacing the clutch" thread - and there's a link to a similar thread in it.

G-HORCE said:

Thanks. So why, once it goes into gear after another try or two, does it perform without issue? I don’t understand how when moving it then shifts gears nicely and smoothly.

And can anyone tell me if it’s ok to race the car with this? I’m assuming no, to be conservative, until I understand what’s up.

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If you have air in the system (which you do) it's harsh on the first few shifts in the morning then as the fluid heat up it expands and it's fine. Clutch bleed is very annoying it's literally press the clutch a 1000 times.

My Gt500 pulled this, after pumping the pedal about a thousand times and vacuum bleeding it a dozen more, it would still go into gear hard in the mornings. I would start it in gear and it would try to creep. It eventually went away with more vacuum bleeding and use. I wouldn't take it back apart just yet. This is one of the many issues with hydraulic clutches, air bubbles, difficult to power shift, no adjustability. Clutch activation technology was at its zenith with the quadrant style cable clutches of the 90s.