10 years ago I took my Saleen 4.6 3V to Summit Point for the fifth time, and threw a rod. My fault completely. So, time for an upgrade. I installed a forged Ford Racing shortblock, some CNC heads, mild cams (boost), and an oversized 10 quart Ford Racing oil pan. Smaller pulley for the supercharger and some Lito magic and traction and heat were the only issues..... Until about a year ago. She started leaving the occassional drop of oil on the garage floor. I figured it was a leaking rear main seal (a casualty of 12psi) and never really paid much attention, just added some blue devil (oil seal in a can) and slid a piece of cardboard under her. And she kept getting a little worse, now it's a couple drops every time she's parked. So I pulled the transmission, ready to replace the rear main seal. Once the flywheel was removed, it's clear the main seal is fine. It looks like the oil pan gasket... Here's a couple pictures, the first is from under the car with the bellhousing removed (that red thing is the Mantic Clutch). You can see the two rear oil pan bolts have oil begining to drip from them. The second pic is once the flywheel is removed. The grey "goop" near the bottom of the block is the caulk we used when installing the oil pan. Does anyone have any suggestions on the best path forward? Maybe I pull the motor from above? Maybe easier to support the motor from above and drop the K member? Or? Thanks for your advice! Charlie

Yes, you can get some type if beam and pad the ends, then put it on the inner lip where the fender mates to the strut tower, ( NOT ON TOP OF THE FENDER). Then mark the position of the K member with some paint markers so you can.put it back exactly where it came out.At this point I've seen several ways to go, you might be able to leave the bolts in one end and " rock" the K member out of thecway, I've seen guys use fabbed up bolts that are way longer than the stick ones to lower the member, there are several ways to go but it is vital to make sure none of the wiring or hydraulic lines are damaged, and supported, because that K member is a lot heavier than it looks.
Basically, you may not have to completely remove the K member, just lower it enough to work around. You are also at the point where the engine can come out easily as the Trans is removed. I've done both methods at the track, it just depends on your resources.

Thanks for the advice and insight. I think I'm going to "smoke" the crankcase and see if the leak is at the rear of the oil pan, at that rear crank seal plate. If so, I'll remove and reseal it, and smoke her again. That's where I'll start. I'll keep the group appraised of my progress.