Any feedback on my planned alignment specs?

Front Camber: -2.6
Front Toe: 0
Rear Camber: -1.9
Rear Toe: 0.16 toe in

The car will be used for a handful of HPDE days each year plus <1,000 miles of street driving. I’m willing to sacrifice street drivability for track compliance. Intermediate skill level.

2016 GT Perf Pack
Stock suspension
J&M front camber plates
Track tires: Falken RT660 275/35/19 squared
Track wheels: SVE X500 19x10 +35mm (squared)
Street tires: Nitto G2 285/35/19 & 305/30/19
Street wheels: SVE S350 (front) 19x10 +40mm (rear) 19x11 +50mm

Here my specs and my experiences with a dual duty car:

2018 Mustang GT PP1
Magneride GT500 Dampers
Ford performance M-5300-W springs (240F/735R vs PP1 165F/730R rates) with nearly 1 inch lowering
MM camber plates (Limited to -2.8 front camber)
-2.3F, -1.7R camber, near 0 toe settings.
19x10 SVE SP2 wheels with 275/40r19 square Micheline PS4S and/or Conti ECS02 for street and track
Drove about 6K miles per year street, 4-5 track days per year
Intermediate to low advance level progression over a couple years

I had near perfectly even wear with -2.3F and -1.7R over 10K street miles and across multiple track days - rotated a couple times per tire set. I am currently at -2.8F with no new track days yet trying to fix new wheels + 305 front tire fitment, but its not enough camber. If I would have stuck to 19x10 front, I would have tried out -2.8F and -1.7R and tuned/dialed in my preferred settings after a few more track days to get the feel.

I think you're on the right track with -2.6F and -1.9R to start. With my 275/40R19, I would get a bit of sidewall rollover due to taller sidewall, not enough camber and SOFTER street tire sidewall. I doubt your RT660 have as much flex, and they are a bit shorter sidewall than mine were too so you should be fine. In fact, since you only drive 1K or less street miles, I'd say you could get away with more negative camber up front.

The only issue is the more camber you throw in, the closer you get to trading braking and straight line performance for cornering performance. Where that trade off reaches equilibrium, I don't know, perhaps someone else can clarify for us.

Thank you. How much camber can I do before the front tire rubs on the strut?

I updated my original post to show my specific wheels.

If you are only changing camber via top of strut camber plates then wheel/tire to strut clearance should not change. With our McPherson front strut system, the wheel hub and the strut are fixed and move together with camber changes.

Oh that’s a great point. Makes sense. Thanks.

For stock suspension and the relatively sticky rt660 I'd suggest going to your max front camber - as close to 3 (stock suspension will have a bunch of body roll on the sticky 660s). The rest of the setting s look good. Then just enjoy the seat time, and keep the car in tires and brakes.

Rodpwnz said:

If you are only changing camber via top of strut camber plates then wheel/tire to strut clearance should not change. With our McPherson front strut system, the wheel hub and the strut are fixed and move together with camber changes.

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That is one of those, "Duh!" things, but for some reason I did not think about it until you posted.

Stan Whitney said:

For stock suspension and the relatively sticky rt660 I'd suggest going to your max front camber - as close to 3 (stock suspension will have a bunch of body roll on the sticky 660s). The rest of the setting s look good. Then just enjoy the seat time, and keep the car in tires and brakes.

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Is he going to be able to do 1000 miles of street driving on his Nitto G2 tires with -3° of camber? He is looking to do both without changing the camber. I don't know the answer. It is a sincere question.

Junkyard Dog said:

Is he going to be able to do 1000 miles of street driving on his Nitto G2 tires with -3° of camber? He is looking to do both without changing the camber. I don't know the answer. It is a sincere question.

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Are you concerned about tire wear? Or drivability?

Toe kills tires much more than camber - something I am parroting from others more knowledgeable than I on the forums, and evident by my personal near perfect wear on -2.3F.

For drivability, I believe he may tramline a bit more? Maybe lost a bit of straight line braking performance?

Rodpwnz said:

Are you concerned about tire wear? Or drivability?

Toe kills tires much more than camber - something I am parroting from others more knowledgeable than I on the forums, and evident by my personal near perfect wear on -2.3F.

For drivability, I believe he may tramline a bit more? Maybe lost a bit of straight line braking performance?

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Just to be clear, it's not me. It's the original poster. I was just pointing out what he wanted, a dual purpose alignment setting. He is going to leave it there year around, not change it for the track and the street.

Junkyard Dog said:

Is he going to be able to do 1000 miles of street driving on his Nitto G2 tires with -3° of camber? He is looking to do both without changing the camber. I don't know the answer. It is a sincere question.

Click to expand...

I did 1200+mi and 4 tracks on RE71Rzswith 4 degrees negative and zero toe in May. There was a bit of extra inside shoulder wear but not in danger of cording. The RT660 is even more durable.