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Norm Peterson

Corner Barstool Sitter
Kenny Brown has a nice option with a longer arm for a longer instant center and better antisquat.
If you are upgrading this is a nice option.
What else is KB doing with the geometry, that he needs to bend the UCA? I'm assuming the bend is for clearance, as there's no good reason for making a suspension link bent if it could be straight. His UCA is the only one I've seen that isn't a straight tube. Would you be pretty much forced into running a lot of axle-side LCA relocating?


Norm
 

Norm Peterson

Corner Barstool Sitter
Have you don’t it? I was reading the the stock mount holes are larger than aftermarket holes. I was looking at the bmr mount but not a fan of the “snowman” mounting holes. Was wondering if I’m overthinking it and just get a take off upper mount from a buddy of mine.



View attachment 60197
The apparent reason for the "snowman" drilling is to provide finer adjustment. Here, it would be giving you that middle setting that with completely separate holes would not be possible. It's pretty thick metal, so I doubt that stresses run very high, and the "sides" where the holes are, are braced against being bent out of plane at both ends.


Norm
 

racer47

Still winning after 30+ years
269
287
SE WI
W2W Racing
20+ Years
Have you don’t it? I was reading the the stock mount holes are larger than aftermarket holes. I was looking at the bmr mount but not a fan of the “snowman” mounting holes. Was wondering if I’m overthinking it and just get a take off upper mount from a buddy of mine.
I have that mount. It is more than strong enough. Plus the highest hole provides for a more level upper arm with a lowered car. I'm able to get high antisquat with a long instant center and with very little LCA angle for minimal roll steer. I think it is easily the best setup. I'm a 3 link fan. I've had several real race cars with them. The course adjustability on the S197s was always annoying but with the BMR upper mount, it all worked out very well. All you need is the newer front bolt to use the bracket plus of course the 1" longer upper arm.
 

Fabman

Epic Contributor
3,200
2,261
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
W2W Racing
20+ Years
What else is KB doing with the geometry, that he needs to bend the UCA? I'm assuming the bend is for clearance, as there's no good reason for making a suspension link bent if it could be straight. His UCA is the only one I've seen that isn't a straight tube. Would you be pretty much forced into running a lot of axle-side LCA relocating?


Norm
It’s for floor Clearence.
 

67GTA

TMO Race
361
398
SoCal
Have you don’t it? I was reading the the stock mount holes are larger than aftermarket holes. I was looking at the bmr mount but not a fan of the “snowman” mounting holes. Was wondering if I’m overthinking it and just get a take off upper mount from a buddy of mine.
I went with the J&M mount for the same reason of not caring for that 3rd hole on the BMR mount, however similar build quality. J&M doesn’t make a 10-14 upper arm, so I paired it with a Whiteline unit. I was good with this combo, since I really like the Max-C bushings on the chassis side.

The J&M doesn’t include the bolt that passes through the UCA bushing, so you’ll have to find one separately. I had to order it online, as I couldn’t find anyone locally that stocks M18 hardware. It’s an M18 x 115 length. Then just order the Ford OE bolt for the 10-14 for the front chassis mount - the one that bolts through from the interior. This bolt is the one that’s larger on the later year models.

https://hotpart.com/product/2011-2014-mustang-upper-control-arm-mount/

531663FD-E693-482F-BBA0-76F115AEE7F7.jpeg
 

Fabman

Epic Contributor
3,200
2,261
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
W2W Racing
20+ Years
I get that much, which would be specifically for a car that's been substantially lowered. What's he doing with the LCAs?


Norm
He lowers the rear pivot approximately 2". He gives you no options, one hole, that's it. People use options to tune themselves into the wall as I'm sure you're aware so he puts it where he wants it and that's that. Paired with his lengthened and lowered 3rd link its supposed to be optimal. I'm a Cortex Torque arm guy but if I had to go back to a 3 link I would very likely go with his setup.
 
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Jbrad

TMO Intermediate
76
98
California
Good to hear feedback on the Max C whiteline. After researching until my head was spinning i decided on that unit even if its a six week back order. What are you running on the other side?

I went with the J&M mount for the same reason of not caring for that 3rd hole on the BMR mount, however similar build quality. J&M doesn’t make a 10-14 upper arm, so I paired it with a Whiteline unit. I was good with this combo, since I really like the Max-C bushings on the chassis side.

The J&M doesn’t include the bolt that passes through the UCA bushing, so you’ll have to find one separately. I had to order it online, as I couldn’t find anyone locally that stocks M18 hardware. It’s an M18 x 115 length. Then just order the Ford OE bolt for the 10-14 for the front chassis mount - the one that bolts through from the interior. This bolt is the one that’s larger on the later year models.

https://hotpart.com/product/2011-2014-mustang-upper-control-arm-mount/
 

67GTA

TMO Race
361
398
SoCal
Good to hear feedback on the Max C whiteline. After researching until my head was spinning i decided on that unit even if its a six week back order. What are you running on the other side?
Steeda spherical bearing, which looks like it’s on cyber-Monday sale still. The goal was to have all 3 attachment points on the axle with spherical rod ends.

8225E874-3E93-48BD-8EDC-4EBCA5D6CB7B.jpeg


Also, check out the RTR Tactical UCA if the Whiteline isn’t available. I’m 99% sure this is made by Whiteline, as they even refer to it as a Max-C bushing in the description.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/rtr-...VRT2tBh0W2ANNEAQYAiABEgIKM_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 

ChrisM

Mostly harmless.
722
731
Japan
HPDE
3-5 Years
Have you don’t it? I was reading the the stock mount holes are larger than aftermarket holes. I was looking at the bmr mount but not a fan of the “snowman” mounting holes. Was wondering if I’m overthinking it and just get a take off upper mount from a buddy of mine.
Not yet. I just picked up a used 2011+ mount from someone online here a while back since I'm installing the Multimatic arm when I get home. I figure if the stock mount is good enough for the race teams using the Multimatic arm, it's probably fine for me too.
 

Norm Peterson

Corner Barstool Sitter
I was reading the the stock mount holes are larger than aftermarket holes.
The stock arm relies on little 'bumps' on the ends of the bushing's inner sleeve to provide positive location via distortion in the sides of the bracket. The torque setting is high enough to make that happen. Aftermarket bushing replacements do not include that feature, and worse, can be supplied with the polyurethane part being longer than the sleeve. Either increases the likelihood of the joint slipping until the bolt to hole clearance gets taken up (where a lot of rear suspension clunking comes from). Tighter bolt to hole clearances tends to help.


Norm
 

Jbrad

TMO Intermediate
76
98
California
Happy new year all. Looking for "off season" changes to the car. Thoughts on adding a clutch reservior to keep clutch and brakes independent of each other? I havent had any issues with my clutch going away after two years with regular flushes but wanted feedback from anyone thats done it.
 

TMSBOSS

Epic Contributor
5,535
2,495
Illinois
HPDE
5-10 Years
I separated the clutch and brakes with a Shelby reservoir. The benefits I found were the brake fluid stayed cleaner, no black material in fluid and the cost to flush the clutch went down. I no longer had to use high end brake fluid for the clutch saving me money every time I flush the clutch fluid, annually. This in itself paid for the reservoir.
 

Fabman

Epic Contributor
3,200
2,261
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
W2W Racing
20+ Years

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