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S197 CaptKaos' 2011 S197 LS Swap Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

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I had planned on running the factory GM PCM at one time so I ordered an Android based Stereo Unti from Dynavin. I wanted to get it in the car and my daughter and I be able drive it for a while to test it out before we pulled it all apart. We got it installed and setup with no issues so now it has a much updated interior for a Teen that has no clue with music media is since everything comes from her phone. This was the last picture I took right before it got in the garage to be pulled apart.

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This brings us to July 22nd weekend The 2 car garage was cleaned out, my 1989 Blazer K5 that is was converted to 2WD was sent to Streeet Rod Garage to have a new chassis built so now it the time for tear down. I started unhooking the wiring from the 3.7 and transmission. I obtained a LS6 intake, BTR Truck Norris cam. The 5.3L got new springs installed and the front of the engine was pulled down.

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The week of the 24th, More wiring was removed along with the Exhaust system starter, trans lines, shifter, anything that would potentially be connected to the engine.

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The last weekend of July/first of August we take a beach trip before school starts. When we returned I had been done some research on the DBW for the Ford pedal, GM pedal and the GM Throttle body. I found that the 2000-2006 truck pedal shares the same plug as the 2011 Mustang. Since I am going to be running a Holley Terminator and had not yet gotten the DBW harness I called Holley and asked if it was possible to get the Mustang pedal to operate the GM TB via the Holley. They only "support" the CTSV/Vette pedal so they said no, however Current Performace has a video of their DBW cables operating SEVERAL different pedals and different Throtle bodies with just a relearn. I called them and they had no help. So I am actively looking for a pinout on the 2011 DBW pedal. These appear to be the same form factory and the same plug style. Anyone have a pinout for this?

I went ahead and ordered the 6 pin CTSV/Vette pedal and GM Truck TB wiring along with the early GM 6pin to GM TB truck wiring (which fits the Mustang)

In order below is the Mustang pedal in the car, pics of Mustang pedal top and GM Truck pedal bottom, top has the plug in the GM bottom is the same plug in the Mustang.

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August 13th weekend. Got the transmission disconnected from the 3.7L. WOW! I have been working on cars since 1983 when I was 13. There was 11 bolts securing the transmission and engine together JUST in the bellhousing. We just slid it out the bottom and sadly the cherry picker my bother had didn't have the reach necessary to hook to the motor. Luckily my neighbor wasn't using his so the next day out goes the 3.7L.

Anyone need an operational V6 Mustang drivetrain :D

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August 19th Weekend I remove everything connected to the K-member, Steering linkage and the lower control arms and then dropped the factory K-member. I then proceeded to put the AJE crossmember in the car. Everything was going well and I had all the bolts and nuts in loose. Apparently when these are welded there is some draw and the passenger side needed some tweaking with a pull bar to get it over about 1/2" or so while I was prying on it I reached to get the Impact to get it in to snug it and grabbed the Milwalke 1/2" and didnt realize it was on Defcon 9 (used the 3/8" for the others but it was out of reach) and forgetting it was on the highest setting, broke the bolt. Ending the evening... I called a buddy to see if I could borrow his extraction tools to remove it (he does a LOT of 6.0L Ford F250 head fixes removing the cab) and he said "don't touch it I will be there tomorrow". While my bother and I was putting the 4L80E in his truck he came by and had it out in about 20-30 minutes.

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The week of August 22 I called the local Ford dealership and ordered a new bolt, and picked it up that week. My 2 Current Performance DBW wiring sets came in along with their Holley AC trigger kit. I also talked to Casey and RaceCarServices and ordered his EPAS Kit.

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Week of August 29th I got the AJE crossmember in. I looked all over the internet and even talked to the Dealership with no luck but found a reference to 85lb/ft for the bolts so I torqued them accordingly. If anyone has different information let me know. AJE instructions didn't have this nor did it have instructions on what bolts go where.
I ended up using the EPAS and main LCA bolts from the Factory Crossmember. The EPAS has a 3rd bolt but the factory 3 bolt won't go in the AJE opening and there is not bolt short enough or big enough. I may just open this up on the AJE and go find a nut since the factory nut is welded to the K-member.

The last 2 pictures show the 3rd hole and the corresponding bracket on the AJE. The only bolts I have left from AJE are in the motor mount pics. And I am going to end up cutting the back part of those off...

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Weekend of September 3rd. I pulled the Truck intake off pulled the Truck pan. The LS6 intake is just sitting there for my daughters reference on the difference. I have a 2010-up Camaro oil pan with baffles but I planned to use it on my 1989 Blazer K5, so I ordered a 1998-2002 F-body pan kit with dip stick tube to put in its place. Not sure what is going to show up this coming week, but Sept 9-11 I will be a LS Fest.

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@TMSBOSS, To answer the trans question, the Level 4 4L60E that came out of my twin brothers turbo 2000 Silverado is being refreshed and will be going in the Mustang since we put an 80E in his truck.
Still need to figure out if I can use the factory shifter and need to figure out if I can modify the factory trans crossmember, make a new one or if someone makes one that will work.
I have a T56 but I can't get my daughter to let me put a manual in the car now.

Also need to figure out the Heater Core hoses to the LS, If it is possible to mount the factory AC to the LS or if I need to swap, and if there is an adapter to go from the Ford Trans fittings to AN, or a way to run new lines for the trans.
 

Dave_W

Cones - not just for ice cream
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Connecticut
looking for a pinout on the 2011 DBW pedal. These appear to be the same form factory and the same plug style. Anyone have a pinout for this?
3.7L Electronic Engine Controls, jump to page 9 of 11 in that section.

If I got the right item, 85 lb-ft is correct for the front subframe bolts.

Amazing build, and glad to see your daughter involved in a project like this. Hopefully she'll treasure the car for the memories being made now with the both of you working on it.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
7,200
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After reading all this amazing build, I would say Captain Kaos is an appropriate name for your moniker, ha! Though I have to think that Captain Industrious would be even better. Thanks for posting and I am sure the two of you will have memories forever of this ambitious project!
 
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@Dave_W Thanks for that link. I found that the other day and didn't get that deep into it. I will be comparing that to the GM Truck pedal and will post my findings. Worse case is I just put the GM pedal in the car. I have no idea how that 15mm alignment tool works nor that it exists. I just bolted it back up.

@Bill Pemberton I feel like Captain Idiot right now attempting this but apparently this is done more often that I realized. I have LS Swapped 73-87's so that part isn't the issue. My personal 1987 R10 is 6.0L/4L80E swapped with twin remote turbos. It is easy integrating with those. All this CanBus stuff is confusing and not knowing anything about the Mustang is a learning curve.

@JP X That is the accurate actual reference. When that movie came out I was already into autos. My buddy watched it and then started calling me Captain K 'os instead of Chris. It has been my screen name forever.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
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My daughter was a bit shy of a clutch. The. She attended a Hagerty teen introduction event. She drove BMW, Vette and Mustangs with a clutch. She was hooked after that. Out went the v-6 auto Mustang and I’m came the V-6 PP Mustang. She now wheels a Focus RS.
 
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Dave_W

Cones - not just for ice cream
646
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Autocross
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20+ Years
Connecticut
It looks like the number and type of signals are the same. Both are using pins 1-3 for Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) and pins 4-6 for APP2 - I'm guessing the ECU has code to compare the APP and APP2 signals and throw a trouble code if they're too far apart. The GM reference voltage is documented as 5v; Ford is probably the same but you should double-check. Both are using potentiometers to detect pedal position. The question is if the potentiometers are the same total resistance, and the same "taper" (change in resistance vs. change in position).

Summary of signals on each pin --
GM VReference 5v pins 3 & 4
Ford VRef ?5v? pins 1 & 4

GM vReturn pins 1 & 6
Ford vRet pins 3 & 6

GM vSignal pins 2 & 5
Ford vSig pins 2 & 5

Compare resistance (pedal position should not matter) for vRef to vRet:
GM between pins 1 & 3; between pins 4 & 6
Ford between pins 1 & 3; between pins 4 & 6

Compare resistance at 0%, 50%, 100% throttle position for vRef to vSig:
GM pins 2 & 3; 4 & 5
Ford pins 1 & 2; 4 & 5

Fingers crossed that all the resistances are the same and you can just swap pins to get it to work.

Whenever I feel like Captain Idiot, I always refer to Captain Sensible.
 

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