Cryo trearment

[k98dave]

Had this done on rotors on my 01 GT, rotors held up great using several sets of Hawk blue pads.

I know it solved rotor issues for many of the Viper teams back during the old Speed Challenge series and Viper Days races.

I think Tire Rack offered this also.

http://stoptech.com/products/rotors/cryogenic-treated-rotors

http://www.300below.com/cryo-rotor-brake-rotors/

 

[blacksheep-1]

Yes, good call

 

[cloud9]

I've tried several cryo and non-cryo rotors on the S197 and to be honest I've noticed no difference in longevity with one over the other. I've tried this with DBA 4000, 2-piece DBA 5000s and also with OEM rotors sent to Frozen Rotors and Frozen Rotors brands themselves. By the time I retired my last S197 (Boss 302) I was running OEM rotors right out of the box and had as much longevity from them as any other brand, cryo treated or not. I'm just sharing my personal experiences with this topic and others may have had better luck. The other issue is the S197s in stock form are underbraked for heavy road course use which likely contributed to short rotor life. I'm hoping the big brakes on the GT350 hold up better simply due to their vastly increased mass.

 

[k98dave]

The biggest advantage noted by the Viper guys was reduction in rotor cracking which can be a disaster.
The rotors still had about the same longevity and replacement frequency, just not cracking!

 

[cloud9]

The biggest advantage noted by the Viper guys was reduction in rotor cracking which can be a disaster.
The rotors still had about the same longevity and replacement frequency, just not cracking!

The cryo treated rotors I reference above cracked just like non-treated rotors. You will get heat checking and eventually cracking with all rotors under intense track use, so the key is keeping an eye on them and replacing before cracks reach the outer (or inner on 2-piece) edges. I am pretty hard on brakes and use a much more aggressive Hawk compound (DTC70) than blues so take it for what it's worth. Unfortunately I've never had the benefit of wearing a track rotor too thin, it's always based on severity of cracking.

 

[steveespo]

My experience is the same as Gary's. After 1 day with new rotors (OEM) I start getting heat checking on both faces of the rotors. I typically run them 3 weekends and have them turned for another 2 weekends. I have never cracked a Ford front rotor through to an edge. Rear rotors (OEM 13.8") are another story, these usually go 3 weekends then get a crack to an outside edge, they don't check, just crack in the paddock upon cool down. I run Carbotech XP-24s up front and now run PFC-08s out back for best pad life.
Steve

 

[Shaun12]

novice...what exactly is "heat checking"? I'm good with everything else.

 

[TMSBOSS]

Heat checking is the forming of small shallow surface cracks which do not penetrate the surface much at all. Checking does not go all the way through the rotor. Checking is usually large enough to see but too small to catch your finger nail in.

 

[Tucson 302]

Heat checking is the forming of small shallow surface cracks which do not penetrate the surface much at all. Checking does not go all the way through the rotor. Checking is usually large enough to see but too small to catch your finger nail in.

And when this happens the rotors are toast?

 

[TMSBOSS]

Not at all.

When they wear down below min thickness or if they crack, then they are toast.

 

[KBBOSS1086]

What is the minimum allowable rotor thickness for our cars? Is it safe to take them down this low for track use?

I cracked a DBA T3 2 years ago after the last session on Sunday at Superfest. As with Steve, it cracked in the pits (thankfully) after coming off track. The crack was all the way through the entire outter portion of the disk. Luckily, the way it cracked I was still able to drive the car...had to drive it all the way from VIR to Northeast PA! I learned a lot about driving with very little braking that ride home! Lol

Ever since them I check them often and err on the side of caution when replacing them. (and always carry a backup set to the track).

 

[302 Hi Pro]

Hi KBBOSS1086:

Each type of rotor has different limits, so manufacturers cast in the minimum thickness allowable on the hub side of the rotor.

302 Hi Pro

 

[KBBOSS1086]

Hi KBBOSS1086:

Each type of rotor has different limits, so manufacturers cast in the minimum thickness allowable on the hub side of the rotor.

302 Hi Pro

Thanks - I never noticed the casting but will have to start looking.

 

[ls110]

I also tried Frozen Rotors and got 17 hours on the first and 13 hours on the second and changed due to lengthening cracks. I then switch to Bembo, no gyro treatment, and have been getting 25 hours on my last two sets. And both of these I retired when the factory slots where almost disappearing.