hawk dtc60/70 vs carbotech (or g-loc) 10/12

[Competition Orange]

I have a stock 2015 GT PP running -2.5 deg camber, BMR handling springs and 18x10s with 300tw tires.

I did a 2 day Mid Ohio weekend last year with the stock brakes and found them to be pretty dang good, but I got pad deposits. This forced turning the rotor and they're just not up to the task for what I have planned this year. I'll be doing 3-4 weekends, all at Mid Ohio, the first being April 29/30. I plan on keeping street tires on this year, the most aggressive I'll go is probably a set of federal RSRR, but i'll most likely keep the 300tws all year. I'm getting new oem blanks, have rbf600 fluid and in a pad dilemma...

Carbotechs/G-locs are much more expensive than the Hawk DTC60/70s. Hawk is releasing them this week, so they'll be available in my timeline, and the carbotech/glocs are already available.

Any experience/recommendations on the track pads? I'm leaning towards hawk for economic reasons so I can pick up a set of street pads to run daily and for autocross. I put about 10k street miles, in addition to the HPDEs and about 10 autocrosses a year.

Thanks!

 

[Competition Orange]

After some additional research, it appears the Hawk pads have corrosive dust. They can ruin wheels and even paintwork, happened to a friend. So with that, I'm taking them off the list.

Switching comparison to Pagid RSL29 vs the carbotech/g-loc 12/10.

Thanks.

 

[Mad Hatter]

Pagids are really long lasting pads with great stopping power. I have had them last over 500min of track use and I out stop my competition on Hawks. They are also very soft on the discs. Just finished switching to Pagid RST-2 and RST-3 pads which are more aggressive. My friends with Hawk DTC 60 and 70 pads seldom have them last more then a 180min at the tack. I think they are worth the extra upfront cost since the last so much longer. Nobody is using Carbotech down here yet.

 

[Competition Orange]

Thanks! I will say that for my budget, the Pagids are prohibitively expensive. $675 for the fronts alone! I probably wouldn't have put them on the list if I knew that before posting.

This 3 week vacation is putting a cramp on my car purchases. OH WHALE.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

I was running Carbotech 24s up front and 10s in the rear. Pads some of the guys in WC and IMSA were running , and they will stop you like crazy. The 12s will run out fairly quickly but they have a nice linear feel to them. I ran them on my ACR and loved the feel on the track , but for the extra weight on the Boss I would jump to a 24 up front.

 

[OPMustang Tim]

DTC70's will use up rotors they are basically equivalent to a G-LOC R16 (CT XP20).
DTC60's are basically equivalent to a G-LOC R10/R12
DTC30's are similar to a G-LOC R8. Or as we refer to them Mustang Auto-X pads/pads for people that just leave them on all the time.

I've got nothing against Hawks, but you have to weigh the cost of rotors because you will use them up. The OEM pads are not cheap but they work well to a point. I ran an entire season on them but I stab and steer. The Ferodo DS2500's are similar (most likely the same as OEM) on the S550 GT Brembo but even more costly than the OEMS.

G-LOCs R18 is CT's XP24 300TW Tire normally should get away with R12's. R16's will also work but may overwhelm tire grip so you may just end up wearing them out if you need to modulate the pedal to get max decel. I run R10's/R8's on a 340 TW tire and don't really use up pads, I try to stay off the brake as much as possible.

For the GT350 as it has so much brake mass we usually say R12's/R10's and for all out R18's/R12's. We have a few running R16's/R12's because #StreetDriving

The biggest factor is adjusting your braking point when moving to a new compound, as the compound goes up the braking point should be later or shorter. If you keep the same braking style you are just going to wear out a more expensive compound. #brakecooling is important. I like the ducts that only focus the air at the hub and keep the rotor brake surface open to the air, the rotation and air passing around the wheel will pull heat out of the outside of the disc while the hub focused cool air will draw the heat out of the center of the rotor.

 

[Mad Hatter]

Thanks! I will say that for my budget, the Pagids are prohibitively expensive. $675 for the fronts alone! I probably wouldn't have put them on the list if I knew that before posting.

This 3 week vacation is putting a cramp on my car purchases. OH WHALE.

$$$675??? ouch!! I forgot that you are in a S550, for My 2012 Boss brembos they are about half that.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

Lots and lots of good info from Tim and he actually helped me , since I will be switching over to G Locs, since Danny Puskar is a good friend. I had not really gotten into a conversation with him(Danny ) ,yet , on the comparisons between Carbotech codes and G-Locs since my GT 350 is just now being built , but Tim answered that concern with his notes about an R18 being equivalent to an R24. Since Tim stabs and steers , much like I do, the choice may be based more on your driving style than anything. If you are a hard, quick braker, I would go with the 18 over the 12s, since you are in a Boss. I will likely used Tim's suggestion of a R12 on my GT 350 when it gets here, especially since he pointed out the additional brake mass will mean a review of the best compound to use.

I will echo his statement on Hawks, as never been a big fan , and found over the years different brands that had better linear feel, easier issues on rotors, and frankly stopped better over a long track session ---- road racing from Spec Miatas to Vipers , always felt my pads were my secret weapon over Hawks.

 

[Competition Orange]

Thanks fellas!

I'm going with the g-loc r10 front r8 rear. I had a good conversation with Danny this morning. He confirmed that the r12 will wear faster than the r10 and felt confident that until I upgrade to an r comp or slick, the r10s will do well at mid ohio with the back straight right turn by China Beach being the only heavy brake zone on track. All others are moderate to light.

Fun fact, according to him, Brembo LCF600 fluid is same as Motul RBF600. Made by same company etc. I haven't validated, but maybe a way to save a few bucks.

 

[OPMustang Tim]

From what I understand there are actually only two manufacturers in the World that make brake fluid, everyone just buys it and I assume has their own makeup, and slaps a label on it. @Competition Orange let us know if we can help you when you are ready, I have GS-1 through R16's waiting for you

 

[jpt3]

No experience with hawk but I've used carbotech since my second track day three years ago. Started with xp10, then xp12, then. Xp20, and now xp 24. The 10 did well for me with MPSS while I was still fairly green and it braking really hard. When they wore out I went up to the 12s. Similar story. They heated up on me going into a late braking zone and just didn't stop so I added brake ducts and went to the 20. The 20s weren't bad. Honestly didn't feel they had much better bite than the 12s but they only lasted three days when all the others lasted much more than that. The 24s I've only run one day but I did really like them. Good modulation and feel in my opinion. Can't comment on how long they last other than I'm told should last longer than the 20s.

Jake