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S550 Honey Badger GT350 Build Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs

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790
1,221
TX
Looking good Kevin!

How are you tooled to make the longer bends in the rear bulkhead? I have a project coming up where I'd like to make some long bends, but don't have the space or money for a giant press brake.
Sure thing. I used this as a base for my design


Mines super quick and dirty, but effective. Made out 1/4in thick angle iron
IMG_2712.jpeg

for the hinges, I used 1/2in solid rod inside a thick tube with 1/2ID

IMG_2714.jpeg
IMG_2713.jpeg
 
790
1,221
TX
FInal fitment of the rear bulkhead before I took it out to paint. It's drying now and should be ready to go in for the final time tomorrow. Awhhh ya.

IMG_2715.jpeg

Also - got a special delivery today. I have a bit of an ambitious exhaust project to try and squeeze into the next couple weeks and some titanium bullet mufflers are just what the doctor ordered. I'm hoping to lower the tone of the engine note a bit and remove some of that rasp/metallic sound that somes with long tubes and catless midpipes. After I heard the much larger Ti mufflers on @Tonymustang302 's car, I knew they were going to be the ticket. The do wonders for rasp and that metallic sound. While his bigger mufflers also helped tone down the volume a lot - i'm told these won't do much on that front.
IMG_2716.jpeg

I have a bit of an ambitious place for the exits :)

IMG_2718.jpegIMG_2717.jpeg
 
790
1,221
TX
Story time!

It was eventful weekend at the badger house. On Thursday, I put at a bat signal on the Link ECU facebook group looking for some help with a base map. I had a couple local race shops I was talking to about tuning the car, but I've been having a ton of trouble getting on their schedule. I was hoping to make COTA in two weeks, so I decided to see what my remote tuning options were.

I was fortunate that a gent named from Australia replied to my post and we started talking. He's a big mustang fan and appears to be quite the tuning wizard. He got started right away building me a base map from scratch (this is a ton more work than tuning an OEM PCM where things like the fuel table, knock parameters, RPM limiters, sensors, etc. are all setup and calibrated). On Saturday we jumped on the phone for about 1.5 hours and began setting up the ECU and working through some tests. We found a couple issues, so we jumped off the phone and I got to work fixing them.

1. Car wasn't building oil pressure - I primed the oiling system a little over a month ago, but it all drained back and it took a bit of spinning the dry sump pulley with a drill to re-prime the system. Okay - easy fix.

2. Trigger 2 wasn't working - the ECU uses the intake cam angle sensor on bank 1 as trigger two. I traced my wires and the wires to the connector itself all checked out. So it must've been the custom leads I soldered on and potted. Okay - easy fix. I had a couple spares and re-did both sides. That was soon fixed. Here's a blurry picture - thanks phone. But trust me - it looks great and came out clean and no OEM connector to fail.

IMG_2728.jpeg

Trig 2 is working (trig 1 is the crank angle sensor and that's the green one, blue is trig 2)
1714459401093.png

3. My accelerator pedal sensor was acting weird. These sensors have a "main" and a "sub" signal (main is the main, obviously, and sub is for redundancy so that if one wire shorts out, the ECU still gets a signal). Two issues, we only had the sub signal. Main wasn't showing up. Second, it was jumping between 4.74v and 0.24v, so resolution was crap (basically the ECU was seeing no throttle or full throttle). Best I can tell, I have a faulty sensor. New one is ordered.


With 1 and 2 fixed, we were able to try firing the car on Sunday evening.

Car is ready for startup!
IMG_2734.jpeg

We disabled the throttle pedal and used the software to control the throttle body. I jumped back on a call with Jono and we began finishing up some settings. We then turned the car over....and she didn't fire. Boooo

So we began more troubleshooting - Jono fired each injector and coil pack 1 by 1 to see if we had fuel and spark. We heard each coil and each injector click in the right order - okay so firing order and wiring was correct. Twice we had the car backfire while testing the spark - scared the bajeezus out of us the first time. Legit sounded like a shotgun blast. haha

We started playing around with the trigger offset thinking the ECU just didn't know where TDC was and therefore timing was off. We got a few hits a couple of times, but still wouldn't fire. We signed off and Jono went and talked to Adam, a lead engineer at Link ECU, and he was like "are you using smart coils?" And there we had the answer. I missed that in my planning had been resuing the OEM coils which don't provide enough spark under compression unless they have an igniter. So my options are two either add igniters to the system or swap out the OEM coils for smart coils. I've chosen the later becasue if the igniters fail, I'm screwed. With smart coils, I can just run to the Nissan dealer and pickup a new set since we're going with R35 GTR coils - widely regarded as the best OEM coils in the industry and they're proven up to 2000hp in the GTRs.

So while I'm waiting on parts and needing to modify the harness, I am taking care of a few other things Jono and I talked about.

1. I'm adding a flex fuel sensor after learning about how the ECU uses the data to interpret and adjust the fuel tables. I'm not smart enough to articulate the reasons to others yet (got homework to do), but it offers more than just the ability to run a mix of petrol and E85 -it gives the ECU more data to work with, which is safer, and it simplifes the work it has to do with the fuel tables.

2. I had the same Ford Performance LU47 injectors I've been using all along. I am swapping to ID1050s for more headroom and better performance. Jono shared some feedback about why he prefers them (better spray pattern, they're all calibrated and tested before shipping, consistency pack to pack, etc.) and it seemed like a no brainer. Plus, Injector Dynamics posts more detailed specs, which gives Jono more info to fine-tune in the ECU programming.

So my current status is I am waiting for new parts to come in so I can fix the spark issue and upgrade the injectors. Bummer to have to wait, but making progress regardless.

Oh - and the rear firewall / bulkhead is basically done. Once I get my black rivets, I can remove the clecos and be done and move onto the windows! The firewall is held in with a combo of rivets and 3M sealant. I then painted over the sealant. Came out great, IMHO.
IMG_2736.jpegIMG_2738.jpegIMG_2742.jpeg
 
790
1,221
TX
Dude, you are a madman! I can't wait for you to get this thing on track!
same here man! I'm getting real itchy!

"The patience of Job" and " A Man on a mission cannot be denied" surely apply to this story time..;)
Ha. This one is pure stubbornness. I have a vision and refuse to give up now that I am this far.
 

Dave_W

Cones - not just for ice cream
1,016
1,326
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Connecticut
Since you mentioned flex fuel sensor, no personal experience but saw this advertised in a recent issue of Grassroots Motorports and thought it an interesting alternative to the typical GM sensor
 
38
24
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Wyoming
FInal fitment of the rear bulkhead before I took it out to paint. It's drying now and should be ready to go in for the final time tomorrow. Awhhh ya.

View attachment 94857

Also - got a special delivery today. I have a bit of an ambitious exhaust project to try and squeeze into the next couple weeks and some titanium bullet mufflers are just what the doctor ordered. I'm hoping to lower the tone of the engine note a bit and remove some of that rasp/metallic sound that somes with long tubes and catless midpipes. After I heard the much larger Ti mufflers on @Tonymustang302 's car, I knew they were going to be the ticket. The do wonders for rasp and that metallic sound. While his bigger mufflers also helped tone down the volume a lot - i'm told these won't do much on that front.
View attachment 94858

I have a bit of an ambitious place for the exits :)

View attachment 94860View attachment 94859
Oooo. That’s gunna be cool.
 
790
1,221
TX
Since you mentioned flex fuel sensor, no personal experience but saw this advertised in a recent issue of Grassroots Motorports and thought it an interesting alternative to the typical GM sensor
Looks promising!

Based on the recommendation of my aussie tuner, I am using one of these https://www.platinumracingproducts....-flex-fuel-sensor-13577429-small-content-temp

they're proper motorsport grade and made in AUS. Also switching a couple bosch sensors out that leak when fail to Syltech sensors.
 
790
1,221
TX
Got a bit further on the radiator ducting last night. Using super thin/cheap AL for rev1 because I want to make it out of CF once I know it works. Needs a bit more trimming and then some reinforcement. Then mounting points and we should be good to go. Then off to the intake!

IMG_2745.JPG

Also got a pic from my Ti welder. Dude turned them around in 48 hours. Total badass. Can't wait to pick them up and get to work on the side exit exhaust!

IMG_2747.JPG
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,588
8,259
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
yep - there's a reason I outsourced the Ti welding. Don't need my stuff falling off the car :D
Ti welding has to be done very carefully. It "should" be purge welded and the temp is highly critical. MUCH more critical than any other metal.
Too cold and the rod sticks to the part when you don't want it to and too hot the part is junk and you can't fix it.
Watch the color band, anything past blue is bad news....when you get to grey you throw the project away and start over.
Whom ever welded this was careful and kept the temp in the happy zone. :)
Definitely not for beginners. o_O
 
790
1,221
TX
Ti welding has to be done very carefully. It "should" be purge welded and the temp is highly critical. MUCH more critical than any other metal.
Too cold and the rod sticks to the part when you don't want it to and too hot the part is junk and you can't fix it.
Watch the color band, anything past blue is bad news....when you get to grey you throw the project away and start over.
Whom ever welded this was careful and kept the temp in the happy zone. :)
Definitely not for beginners. o_O
yep - one of the things Russell said is when the welds fail, the crack typically expands beyond just the weld. So Ti exhaust cracks are pretty catastrophic. It sounds like a hassle. Sure sounds good and weighs a lot less than stainless, tho!
 

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