The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

How-to: Removing the Hydro-Bushings from a S197 Lower Control Arm

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

OK, much has been written about removing the hydrobushing from a front control arm on the S197.

Most of what I’ve seen involves sawzalls, torches and a mess.

Why remove the hydrobushing?

As an AI racer..... a friend already had the Kenny Brown K-Member and controls arms but after a couple arms cracked and during each race weekend at least one bushing split and fell out, and with KB not willing to build delrin bushings. ………maybe because KB knows the delrin wouldn’t work because the arms don’t line up just so and the arms need the urethane because of the miss alignment….but hey let’s looks at the easy way to remove that pesky bushing.

You say you have the KB stuff and the k-member/arms are the greatest thing since white sliced bread..... well when you can capture the pole at Sebring with mid 2:25's you'll be running hard enough.

What will they be replaced with? The Ford Racing Bushing Kit


What do you need? Only a big ass hydraulic press the one we used was a 40 ton, but we only used about 13 tons…………….

Here's the arm, yes it's the old style he's got new ones we used this one as a test mule.


Placing a collar around the bushing.


Arm setup on the press.


Insert placed on the arm's pivot point.


Exert force until the arm starts to slide out of the bushing.


There it is! Arm removed from the bushing no sawzall, no torch, no removing fluid.


Next up: Using a stock lower control arm I'll show you how to make a set of Ford Racing Boss 302 R/S Control Arms using the Howe Racing screw in ball joint adapter and a rebuildable screw in ball joint.


The car these are going on has a conventional rack and pinion.

Now the steering shutter from the EPAS, I did this on my '12 Boss and have done two track weekends, both at Sebring with no shutter.

Before this I looked high and low and could only find the problem affecting '11 Mustang GT's no data on latter cars........that I could find.

This may have something to do with the different "nibble" software revision on the Boss or not.

Since the last weekend at the track I've added SACHS dampeners so we'll see if that affects it now......
Very nice write up. I keep getting ideas and they make me realize how little capitol I have. Whose bushings did you go with?
How would you compare this to the steeda control arm setup? The Howe Racing balljoint looks nicer than the steeda unit, but the Steeda arm comes to your door ready to bolt on

link for the steeda arm:


Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
I run the steeda arms and am happy with them. Same set up as the FRPP arms for 1/3rd the price. Pressing the ball joints out and repressing the new ones in is not that hard using a C-Arm screw press tool. Replacement X-11 ball joints are $159 a pair from Steeda. The Arms they use are OEM Ford to which they install the Urethane bushings and the tall ball joints. I paid $439/pr. ready t go.
Swiss Boss said:
I order the Steeda last weekend. Should get them tomorrow.

Also if you price all the bushings + ball joint, it's around 380-400$. Then you have to install everything.

I paid 457.90$ shipped

What does it bring?
A correction in geometry when lowered?
Less deflection?
Does it work with the Boss and its steering?
Did you do the bump steer as well?
patrickshelby said:
What does it bring?
A correction in geometry when lowered?
Less deflection?
Does it work with the Boss and its steering?
Did you do the bump steer as well?

If you're referring to the arm Steeda sells, it comes with stiffer bushings (less deflection) and a tall balljoint for roll center correction up front. Don't know if the Boss has the same steering shudder that some 11' Mustang GTs have with stiffer bushings in the front LCA--I've seen some people comment that they have no issues on Bosses
I have Boss 302S front LCA's, looking for some advice. Can the front Delrin bushing be done with a ball joint removal tool at home? I have the saddle bracket bushings removed/installed but was looking for a less expensive option than taking to a machine shop. The local suspension shops in the Louisville area have not been helpful. Thanks in advance for the help.


TMO Supporting Vendors

Buy TMO Apparel

Buy TMO Apparel