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MGW vs Barton

Tucson 302

2013 Black LS #439
I apologize if I overlooked previous posts on this, but for those of you who have installed one of these shifters why did you choose one over the other? I'm having a difficult time deciding which one to go with. In your opinion which is better and why?
 
I dont know much about Barton, but to my understanding they dont replace the lower part of the housing, and the two pins that keep the body from rotating on the MGW seems to be a key ingredient in their success. I'm sure Barton's build quality is good, but there is so much more with the MGW. I installed it yesterday and I just cant wait to get back in drive it, i am just stuck on a 48 hr shift at the moment :(. Anyway, look at the MGW install video on SVTPerformance and you will see why.
 
The Barton has a 2 pin bracket now too. Both are decent but from what I have seen so far, I would choose the barton over the MGW based on a much easier install, similar improvement in shift quality and by appearance, a much less complicated design.

I don't think I have heard anyone that is unhappy with either shifter.
 
Just saw the Barton two pin bracket, so yeah, it does look a lot easier, but what i dont get is how it is how does it improve much when it is part of the bracket itself? The MGW two pins are part of the housing, which keeps the housing firmly in place as you move the shifter. Maybe the Barton is rigid too, it just doesnt seem as logical to me. No question it will be an easier install though, but I would make a more thorough comparison of effectiveness over installation ease. But I cant answer that for you as I only have the MGW. But, MGW has made recent improvements in installation by using studs and nuts on the housing base instead of bolts, and the bushings are now molded into the housing.
 
I'm going to be the odd man out and suggest you don't purchase either. What I'd do first is buy a Barton or MGW twin post bracket and see if that provides the improvement you're looking for. IMO having installed a shifter bracket first then installing the MGW over 50% of the improvement comes from eliminating the marshmallow stock bracket. There's also been several of us that installed the MGW hoping it would solve our shifting problems and it didn't. If the bracket works you'll have saved enough to buy me a beer. ;)
 
I'm gonna have to chalk one more up for the MGW. Put it on at 300 miles on my GT. I've felt other GT's with brackets and I still prefer the MGW. I don't think the install is complicated either, took me probably an hour the first time I did it by myself. Much much faster with two people, I think me and Justin took it off and put the stocker back in the GT in 15 minutes tops.

FWIW after the stocker went back in to the GT I wanted to kill myself just driving to the dealer to get the Boss. I don't know how people live with that thing without at least a bracket.
 
Can anyone still confirm if you order the MGW shifter using your credit card they won't charge you until it ships?

Birthday is right around the corner and I am finally going to order this.....spent too much time with the stock one in the car and reading how everyone else just raves about the MGW shifter.
 
SUPRMN said:
Can anyone still confirm if you order the MGW shifter using your credit card they won't charge you until it ships?

Birthday is right around the corner and I am finally going to order this.....spent too much time with the stock one in the car and reading how everyone else just raves about the MGW shifter.

I don't know why they would change it. When I bought mine it was about a 1 month lead time. I didn't get charged until it shipped.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,222
3,207
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Illinois
I have purchased two shifters fro MGW. They charge your card after shipping.

I ordered two upgrade kits yesterday for the rear mount. No charge to the card yet.

As stated above. The majority of the problems with the stock shifter come from the extremely soft rear mount. Both the Barton and MGW shifters eliminate this problem. The MGW also replaces the extremely soft and vague internal bushings found in the shifter housing.
 
I like like my MGW. Very positive shifting and it most certainly eliminated that rubbery feeling. I've never tried the barton but there was no question or doubt's after reading all the reviews on MGW. The build quality is precise and they use top of the line materials so you get your monies worth. Installing the shift boot was the biggest pain in the butt of the install but well worth it. I did mine in about 2-3 hrs by myself and it took that long because I was making absolutely sure I was doing everything to the letter. You can't go wrong with the MGW, they built their business around firearms and triggering systems for the military so they know what their doing.
 
My vote is the MGW, I put mine in at 185 miles, I have 3k miles now, works faultless. What I like too is you can adjust 1-2 rail clearance for precise engagement in 1-2 shifts. 3-4 shifts and 4-5 shifts are silky smooth.

But a side note, an MT 82 is a MT 82, it still needs to warm up thoroughly before pushing it, and it still will clunk through the lower gears. But I never miss a 7K shift anymore, well worth the money.
 

Tucson 302

2013 Black LS #439
NFSBOSS said:
I'm going to be the odd man out and suggest you don't purchase either. What I'd do first is buy a Barton or MGW twin post bracket and see if that provides the improvement you're looking for. IMO having installed a shifter bracket first then installing the MGW over 50% of the improvement comes from eliminating the marshmallow stock bracket. There's also been several of us that installed the MGW hoping it would solve our shifting problems and it didn't. If the bracket works you'll have saved enough to buy me a beer. ;)

Rick thanks for the advice! I will gladly buy you a beer if I ever make it up to NORCAL
 
NFSBOSS said:
I'm going to be the odd man out and suggest you don't purchase either. What I'd do first is buy a Barton or MGW twin post bracket and see if that provides the improvement you're looking for. IMO having installed a shifter bracket first then installing the MGW over 50% of the improvement comes from eliminating the marshmallow stock bracket. There's also been several of us that installed the MGW hoping it would solve our shifting problems and it didn't. If the bracket works you'll have saved enough to buy me a beer. ;)

Not doing much research when I got the car, I went and bought the Steeda short throw shifter and the Steeda Shifter base. Saw a bit of improvement in high rpm shifting but not much.

Based on recent research and this thread, I just bought the Barton twin post bracket only and will install it to see if that reduces the issue. The imprecise shifting is really my major complaint with the car so I am hoping this helps.
 
Justin said:
I like the MGW you can adjust so many things on it to fit your needs. sure its a little bit harder to install but not that hard
I should try adjusting the spring tension and see if I like that better. It feels great shifting between 3-4 but not so much between 1-2.

I do like the shifter but I miss the buttery smooth feel of the stock shifter. I recently drove a 2013 GT track pack car at Chuckwalla and it shifted fine.
 
1,255
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GA
I really like my Ford Racing/Baron shifter. It is solid like a brick shiathouse. ;D It includes the two post bracket.

DSCN4030_zps988f7de7.jpg
 
NFSBOSS said:
I should try adjusting the spring tension and see if I like that better. It feels great shifting between 3-4 but not so much between 1-2.

I do like the shifter but I miss the buttery smooth feel of the stock shifter. I recently drove a 2013 GT track pack car at Chuckwalla and it shifted fine.

What you need to do is adjust your 1-2 rail adjustment. Unscrew knob, remove console, push upper rubber seal of shifter DOWN. You will see a 1/2" nut on the right of the shifter, loosen it. Look at the LS of the shifter, notice the dowel pin that rides on the vertical piece of aluminum when you push left for 1-2, there is a small hole in it. Place a small punch or allen wrench in the hole and loosen the pin about 1/4 to1/2 a turn. Hold it and tighten the nut on the other side. Try your shifter for smoothness, you should feel it engage smoothly. By adjusting the pin, the shift rail won't rotate over enough to interfere with the reverse fork when shifting. It will still be notchy, but it will engage smoothly
 

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