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New rear calipers …. Options?

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51
20
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
New England
Just going through the oem brakes on my mustang. Fronts seem ok, but the rears have issues. Two stuck slide pins, one broken. With 90k and 12 years, maybe it’s just time for some new calipers. Seems like the oem will be all I need going forward.

Plenty of options, however looking for quality. Looked at oem but track pack calipers are N/A. Base calipers are available for about 250 a piece. Difference? Also Rock auto has a slew of cheap calipers plus motocraft for $175 a piece. Is that the same as OEM?

What do you guys use for replacement calipers? Thanks as always for the feedback.
 
1,068
1,057
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
New oem or rebuild your original calipers with quality seals. Remanufactured from the parts store do not hold up to track use. I went through two sets of Napa Eclipse premium remanufactured in less than 3 months. They didn't make it through a track weekend without leaking. The Track Pack oem calipers are painted black the base model are unfinished. I have never been able to get a good answer on whether their are other differences or not.
 
Agree with Ford/Motorcraft or nothing regarding a full-caliper replacement and avoiding remanufactured units. Since you have stuck pins it sounds like you'll want to just get a caliper replacement since I don't believe the rear caliper bracket is sold separately from Ford. This is why when I teach people about brake maintenance I emphasize the importance of lubricating those slider pins while doing brake pad replacements. I've seen someone ruin a brand new set of pads when they got tapered to hell because he had one of those pins get seized on his Mustang. If you take your car to a shop, there's a very high chance they aren't lubing the pins since it takes extra time. Tasca prices are $144 for DR3Z-2552-C and $177 for DR3Z-2553-C brand new, before shipping. Don't forget to get new copper crush washers for your banjo bolt.
 
Last edited:

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,490
5,168
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
I went through five parts store rear calipers, this year. I now have one new OEM caliper I’m stock and one on back order. When the second arrives, I’ll replace them part store calipers with the Ford originals. The parts store specials will go in track spares box.
 
1,068
1,057
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
Agree with Ford/Motorcraft or nothing regarding a full-caliper replacement and avoiding remanufactured units. Since you have stuck pins it sounds like you'll want to just get a caliper replacement since I don't believe the rear caliper bracket is sold separately from Ford. This is why when I teach people about brake maintenance I emphasize the importance of lubricating those slider pins while doing brake pad replacements. I've seen someone ruin a brand new set of pads when they got tapered to hell because he had one of those pins get seized on his Mustang. If you take your car to a shop, there's a very high chance they aren't lubing the pins since it takes extra time. Tasca prices are $144 for DR3Z-2552-C and $177 for DR3Z-2553-C brand new, before shipping. Don't forget to get new copper crush washers for your banjo bolt.
You can buy just the rear caliper brackets from the chain auto parts stores. I would just clean and paint the original and replace the slide pins if I was just rebuilding the calipers.
 
You can buy just the rear caliper brackets from the chain auto parts stores.
Good call, I didn't know they were available since I've never personally frozen up one of my sliding pins in the bracket before. In the two instances I was helping other people out on different vehicles, the pins got seized in the bracket itself and we just decided to replace the bracket instead of trying to torch them out. Years of neglect, rust, and heat cycles turns out to be a pretty good glue.
 
51
20
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
New England
Appreciate all the feedback. Seems pretty simple go OEM.

I have only had this car for a couple hundred miles, I took it upon myself to just give the brakes a once over. One of the front caliper pins was frozen but I was able to break it loose. The two on the rear, no good.

I guess I could just buy cheap aftermarket and reuse the bridge and hardware. Or I will just get new oem as suggested. Thanks!
 
51
20
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
New England
FWIW, I did search before making this thread and the only recommended caliper I found was OEM. There are at least a half dozen rebuilders of calipers and all of them can't completely suck. (or can they?). I guess do you want to chance it?

I had trouble finding a source for both new OEM calipers in stock. I also hedged a bit on the $350 shipped. So i decided to stop being lazy and torched the bracket and beat out the stuck pins. They must have been stuck for years as it was quite the fight. Anyway I cleaned up the bores, bought new hardware and will rebuild them. Better to stay with original, and save money.

I may even paint them, but every time I have done that in the past the paint just burns off on the track.
 
1,068
1,057
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
If the brackets were that bad I would replace them. Advance Auto sells them separately. For paint try one of the high temperature bbq grill paints. They stand ip to heat better.
 
51
20
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
New England
I just needed to get them to the right temp, then the pins came out. I have got 15 minutes of wire wheeling these brackets to give up on them now!
 

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