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49
104
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
San Diego
Damn Peter! If I had the time, skills, and more importantly, money I would build pretty much this exact car. The only thing I would probably be doing different would be either staying with the 418/427w and having a nice, quality stereo for long distance drives.
The quality of work you have done and are doing is exceptional!

My dream engine for the car is a all aluminum 427. I think that will be the next engine for the car but that's a long time off.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,480
8,065
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
NASA Rule
"11.4.9 Battery The battery should be securely fastened to the car. No Bungee cords or rubber cords may be used to function as the sole hold down mechanism. An electrically non-conductive material should cover the positive battery terminal. Any battery located inside the driver’s compartment should be fully covered and firmly secured to the chassis (or tub) in a marine type battery case. Dry cell, gel cell, and AGM batteries may be mounted without a surrounding case however a case is still recommended. Lithium ion batteries must be outside of the passenger area of the vehicle. Note- a ruptured lithium ion battery is subject to instant ignition at such high temperatures, the owner/ builder runs the risk of the entire vehicle being consumed by the fire."

SCCA Rule
"9.3.8. BATTERIES Battery location is unrestricted within the bodywork (except Spec Miata, Touring 2-4, B-Spec, and Improved Touring). If located in the driver/passenger compartment, vented wet cell batteries shall be in a nonconductive marine type container or equivalent. The hot terminal shall be insulated on all cars. All batteries (on-board power supplies) shall be attached securely to the frame or chassis structure independent of the marine type container"

I would think chassis means more than just body panels. Maybe I'm interpreting that wrong?

Unibody cars usually still have frame rails they just might not be connected front to back. My battery is mounted through the rear frame rail in the Mustang.
I think this is the part they are getting at:

All batteries (on-board power supplies) shall be attached securely to the frame or chassis structure independent of the marine type container"

They don't want a plastic box bolted down with a battery loose inside of it.
In a crash the battery can come through the plastic box like a wrecking ball.
Ask me how I know this. :rolleyes:
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,480
8,065
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
I've been meaning to update this thread and the one on the corral. The car is doing good right now. Still have a couple more things to do before it is ready for the final NMCA event Oct 15-16. I didn't do much updating to my threads since I had been thrashing on the car trying to get it ready for the NMCA Sept 3-4 event. But unfortunately the car wasn't ready for that event.

Here's some of the back story of the car starting at the rebuild. I mentioned before the car was sitting on jack stands for around 10 years. My plan back in 2000 was to build a SCCA CP car. So the car was gutted and caged. I really didn't have the budget for it and after not turning it into a real CP car with fender flares and big tires after close to 6 years I just didn't have the money to keep it going. Since I didn't want to get rid of the car it went on jack stands with the plan one day it would race again. Then in 2016 I was able to make my dream of racing the car again a reality. I took the car off jack stands and started the process to get the car ready to run in SCCA CAM-T. Here's how the car looked when I got it home.

View attachment 79610

The car already had the Maximum Motorsports front suspension on it. The rear had a parallel 4 link with MM panhard bar and road race lower control arms. Here's how the interior looked.

View attachment 79611View attachment 79612

The first order of business was removing the front part of the cage and leaving the rear roll bar. The next thing I always wanted to do was build my own motor. I had never done that before but I knew I wanted to try. I really wanted to build a 347 for the car so i talked to Jim Woods aka Woody at fordstrokers. So I bought a pile of parts from him and set out to build an engine with his help. I decided not to use the block from my old motor. I used a Dart SHP block with a big bore 4.125 and a shorter stroke AFR heads. Which turned out to be really good for my first attempt at building an engine.
View attachment 79614
View attachment 79613

Then I worked on widening the car since I wanted to run a 315 on it. I picked up Chicane 23 fender flares and started cutting up the car. The front was easy I did it myself but the rear I had help with since I have never really welded before. After a lot of work i had fender flares on the car. If someone wants to see what I did to make the flares work I can post more pictures.

View attachment 79615

At this point the car was running and I took it out to it's first autocross which went better then expected I only had a couple minor issues with the power steering going dead mid corner which made things hard when you have 315 in the front an you loose power steering in the corner. Here's a picture of my second autocross with the car after I put the saleen air dam on it.

View attachment 79616

This I believe was late 2019 if I remember correctly. My plan was to test the car with the flares just riveted on so if a tire hit one or something got damaged I wouldn't have to do a bunch of body work over again. I felt like the car was pretty set for the 2020 race season. Unfortunately things didn't go as planned as we all know. Between the stadium closing since it got sold off and covid my race plans got put on hold for 2020.

When I realized racing wasn't going to happen I decided to do the body work on the car. I've never done it before but I gave it a try. It didn't turn out to bad for my first time. I had always planned on wrapping the car. I wanted to be able to fix things myself and not rely on a body shop. So I did my best to blend the flares to the car and wrap it.

View attachment 79617

View attachment 79618

View attachment 79619

Other things I had been doing during this time was add a 04 Cobra IRS and ABS system to the car. When I installed the IRS I was looking at the ABS sensors and thought I already of the mounts for the sensors and tone rings all I need to do is add plumb it and wire up the ABS module. Since I removed everything under my dash that's where I put my ABS module.

View attachment 79620

The first event for the newly rebuilt again car was Jan 5 and chuckwalla valley raceway. I really wanted to the first event to be an autocross and not a track day but it ran good with no major issues. I did a bunch of autocross events another track day in 2021 and got a lot of the bugs worked out in the car and I managed a win in NMCA modern muscle class. I was looking forward to the 2022 season with the car.

For the new racing season I added a Pro-M EFI system and took the car to the dyno. I knew the car didn't make great power but I really didn't realize how bad it was. Since the car has a 347 with AFR heads mild cam it should make more then 300hp it only made 275hp and 318tq. The power fell off like a rock after 5000-5100 rpms. It did make great low end torque which is why the car did great on short tight courses. I decided to wait until the summer break to pull the motor put a new cam in the car with shaft mount rockers Holley Systemax bigger throttle body and MAF from Pro-M. I also set the car up with a better fuel system so I could run E85. I didn't do the motor work this time I really didn't have the time so I had the engine builders at JBA Racing do the engine work. Since the engine was out I added an Tremec TKX and MDL hydraulic clutch setup.

The car is currently at JBA getting the exhaust fixed and having it tuned for the new setup. It runs pretty good but it does need some fine tuning. I was hoping to get test event in before the NMCA event but it doesn't look like that is going to happen. Here's some pictures of the interior and the new engine setup.

View attachment 79628
View attachment 79632
View attachment 79631
View attachment 79630

View attachment 79629

This is a cliff notes version of what I did with the car if anyone has questions about any part of it please let me know I'm happy to help if I can.
I'd love to hear more about the ABS.
 
49
104
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
San Diego
I'd love to hear more about the ABS.

The ABS in the car is from a 04 Cobra. I went with since it would be the easiest to install. The only major thing I had to do is make all the brake lines. I didn't like my first version of the brake lines so I made a few new ones recently. It works pretty good one of the issues is my car is a lot lighter than the car the unit was designed for so I will get a quick lockup under hard braking but it's only for split second. The brakes calipers are the same in the rear as a 04 cobra and the fronts are the wilwood kit you would put on the cobra so those should be fine.

I do have two other ABS units I want to try I just haven't figured out which one I'm going to use at this time. I have the ABS module from a 09 GT500 which I've heard is the last year you can use standalone. This one I know people have run and should be a lot better than the one I have right now in the car. The only issue with it is I would have to mount new sensors since the ones I use right now are active and the GT500 unit uses passive sensors if I remember correctly. It really shouldn't be to big of a deal to mount the sensors but I have to look into it. The other one I have is a BMW MK60e5 ABS module out of a 2011 BMW M3. This one is interesting I have a friend that has it working in his 68 Camaro. He and a few others have figured out a way to crack it and change the settings in the ABS module to tune it. The issue with the BMW unit is the wheel speed sensors. I would have to replace the tone rings and sensors. The sensors wouldn't be that bad it's the tone rings that would be hard to figure out. I've heard someone is working on a converter to take the active signal from my ABS sensors and convert them to a signal the MK60 can understand.

The one issue I've run into with the ABS is the master cylinder. The first one I had in the car was rebuilt 93 cobra master cylinder I got from LMR lasted about half the season before the seals went bad inside. Based on what we could see the seals were damaged. After doing more research I found they design the master cylinders for ABS systems differently to handle the pulses when the ABS module triggers. The master cylinder I have in the car now is a 93 cobra but it's a new one from Raybestos which has been fine so far. I know tilton has master cylinders for their pedal setups designed for ABS brakes which is the route I would like to take in the future but that isn't happening this year.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,480
8,065
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
The ABS in the car is from a 04 Cobra. I went with since it would be the easiest to install. The only major thing I had to do is make all the brake lines. I didn't like my first version of the brake lines so I made a few new ones recently. It works pretty good one of the issues is my car is a lot lighter than the car the unit was designed for so I will get a quick lockup under hard braking but it's only for split second. The brakes calipers are the same in the rear as a 04 cobra and the fronts are the wilwood kit you would put on the cobra so those should be fine.

I do have two other ABS units I want to try I just haven't figured out which one I'm going to use at this time. I have the ABS module from a 09 GT500 which I've heard is the last year you can use standalone. This one I know people have run and should be a lot better than the one I have right now in the car. The only issue with it is I would have to mount new sensors since the ones I use right now are active and the GT500 unit uses passive sensors if I remember correctly. It really shouldn't be to big of a deal to mount the sensors but I have to look into it. The other one I have is a BMW MK60e5 ABS module out of a 2011 BMW M3. This one is interesting I have a friend that has it working in his 68 Camaro. He and a few others have figured out a way to crack it and change the settings in the ABS module to tune it. The issue with the BMW unit is the wheel speed sensors. I would have to replace the tone rings and sensors. The sensors wouldn't be that bad it's the tone rings that would be hard to figure out. I've heard someone is working on a converter to take the active signal from my ABS sensors and convert them to a signal the MK60 can understand.

The one issue I've run into with the ABS is the master cylinder. The first one I had in the car was rebuilt 93 cobra master cylinder I got from LMR lasted about half the season before the seals went bad inside. Based on what we could see the seals were damaged. After doing more research I found they design the master cylinders for ABS systems differently to handle the pulses when the ABS module triggers. The master cylinder I have in the car now is a 93 cobra but it's a new one from Raybestos which has been fine so far. I know tilton has master cylinders for their pedal setups designed for ABS brakes which is the route I would like to take in the future but that isn't happening this year.
I have a gen 3/2 coyote swapped 06 s197. I had no idea the abs would’t work with the coyote electronics when I did the swap so I currently have no abs and it’s just terrible. 2 seasons of w2w with it and it’s just…..terrible. I purchased an abs pump and module for a boss 302s and haven’t installed it yet….(wiring is not my friend). This is supposedly the preferred pump and it’s supposed to work stand alone. When I see swaps with abs I always like to see what’s up.
Love your thread….Carry on. :cool:
 
49
104
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
San Diego
The final event before the summer break is in the books. It was a good event for me I ended up second in class around 2 tenths off the lead which I was happy with. The guy that is normally way faster then all of us was back with his car fixed. I would normally be 7-8 tenths off of him so I was happy to get close. I also ran my fastest time during my competition runs so that was a good improvement. I will say I did over drive the car a bit trying new things seeing how far I could push it and couldn't get faster.


I will say I did loose some time going into the 180 just before the slalom at the end of the course which might have made the difference but not really sure. I think on one of my X runs I was a bit faster through that section.

Now it's time to get to work on the car. It's going to be a long summer break of working like crazy to get the car done by September. I also added a few other things I need to look into during the break. Some should be easy like the for some reason the hatch won't lock anymore others are the car is still leaking a bit of oil and I need to track that down. The car also tore up another belt it took it down to a 4 rib belt. I need to check my pulley alignment again. I also have the MM brake kit for the IRS that I need to install on the car but that is at the bottom of the list right now since I don't need them just yet. The main focus is getting the car wired and running then I will worry about the extra stuff. I'm going to keep this thread updated with my progress on the car. I'm hoping to have weekly updates coming.
 
49
104
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
San Diego
It's been a slow start to the rewire of the car. I finally got started this week but really haven't done anything with the car other then remove the battery. I decided to make a test harness for the PMU-16's I have so I can power them on and check them out. I started making a basic power harness then a Can network so I could connect the two of them together and manage them both through the same can keypad. Then last night I made a small harness to hook up the Can keypad to the system and power it through one of the PUM-16. I was able to get the keypad powered on but haven't tested it's Can functions yet. Here's a picture of my test harness.

SQJ6305b_xWRfcwjsNQL2CT=w768-h1024-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

This is not how it's going to look in the car this is only a test. I'm going to test out the Can Keypad today to see if I can get it to function. I'm thinking of hooking up a couple lights to work on the turn signal functions in the PMU. I also need to figure out the power on of the PMU's once I have them installed in the car. It would be easy to just wire an on off switch like I'm using to power them on now but I would like to make it tougher for some one to steal the car. I was thinking of just keeping the ignition switch wired up and just using that as the key on to power up the PMU's. Then at least you would still need a key to start the car.
 
49
104
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
San Diego
I got started on the car this Sunday getting the dash out. I hadn't taken it out since I installed it. It was a pretty big wiring nightmare under the dash. When I first built the car it looked all nice and clean but over the years making changes it looked really bad. I still need to get the back of the car taken apart so I can start to pull that wiring out. I'm going to built a flat plate under the dash to mount the 2 PMU's the Dominator and ignition box I thought about making it out of aluminum to help act as a heat sink for the PMU's but haven't figured that out yet. I thought about carbon fiber but man is that stuff expensive.

cGWcs-n569Ayzp3f0s0nOpm=w1024-h768-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

This a picture of the moment when I thought to myself what was I thinking. It's going to be a long summer in my garage. I'm still waiting on the Dominator which isn't showing up until mid July right now. Hopefully it doesn't get pushed back again. I have plenty of stuff to work on between now and then. I also still have the oil leak so I need to look into that. It seems to be coming from the back of the lower intake manifold since I can feel oil back there but I don't think it's the only place. I have the opening for the PCV valve plugged since I run open breathers. I'm thinking of pulling the lower intake welding a plate over the hole for the PCV valve and welding a -10an bung on it to add another breather. I have 2 -10an lines coming of the valve covers but I figure it won't hurt to vent from the back of the intake manifold.
 
26
34
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Soddy Daisy, TN
I got started on the car this Sunday getting the dash out. I hadn't taken it out since I installed it. It was a pretty big wiring nightmare under the dash. When I first built the car it looked all nice and clean but over the years making changes it looked really bad. I still need to get the back of the car taken apart so I can start to pull that wiring out. I'm going to built a flat plate under the dash to mount the 2 PMU's the Dominator and ignition box I thought about making it out of aluminum to help act as a heat sink for the PMU's but haven't figured that out yet. I thought about carbon fiber but man is that stuff expensive.

View attachment 87060

This a picture of the moment when I thought to myself what was I thinking. It's going to be a long summer in my garage. I'm still waiting on the Dominator which isn't showing up until mid July right now. Hopefully it doesn't get pushed back again. I have plenty of stuff to work on between now and then. I also still have the oil leak so I need to look into that. It seems to be coming from the back of the lower intake manifold since I can feel oil back there but I don't think it's the only place. I have the opening for the PCV valve plugged since I run open breathers. I'm thinking of pulling the lower intake welding a plate over the hole for the PCV valve and welding a -10an bung on it to add another breather. I have 2 -10an lines coming of the valve covers but I figure it won't hurt to vent from the back of the intake manifold.
That looks like a whole lot of nope for me. I would have to take up smoking again if I got into that. LOL
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,480
8,065
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
I got started on the car this Sunday getting the dash out. I hadn't taken it out since I installed it. It was a pretty big wiring nightmare under the dash. When I first built the car it looked all nice and clean but over the years making changes it looked really bad. I still need to get the back of the car taken apart so I can start to pull that wiring out. I'm going to built a flat plate under the dash to mount the 2 PMU's the Dominator and ignition box I thought about making it out of aluminum to help act as a heat sink for the PMU's but haven't figured that out yet. I thought about carbon fiber but man is that stuff expensive.

View attachment 87060

This a picture of the moment when I thought to myself what was I thinking. It's going to be a long summer in my garage. I'm still waiting on the Dominator which isn't showing up until mid July right now. Hopefully it doesn't get pushed back again. I have plenty of stuff to work on between now and then. I also still have the oil leak so I need to look into that. It seems to be coming from the back of the lower intake manifold since I can feel oil back there but I don't think it's the only place. I have the opening for the PCV valve plugged since I run open breathers. I'm thinking of pulling the lower intake welding a plate over the hole for the PCV valve and welding a -10an bung on it to add another breather. I have 2 -10an lines coming of the valve covers but I figure it won't hurt to vent from the back of the intake manifold.
Kevin Patten @Albino500 love doing this shiznit. If it wasn't for him Frankenstang wouldn't even run.
 
49
104
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
San Diego
Wow it's been a while. Unfortunately not much has happened with the car it's still in a lot of pieces. I did finally get the Dominator at the end of July. I'm really far behind on the car right now. I should be getting ready to start for the first time but I haven't put any wire back in the car yet. I honestly just ordered the wiring for the lights yesterday. I'm going to miss the Sept 30 event at this point unless a miracle happens. The guys at JBA have offered me a car to run at that event so I will at least get a chance to race. Here's what I have done so far.

I got the Dominator and the PMU's mounted to a plate under the dash. I was going to also mount the ignition box but decided to put that under the hood where the battery would normally go. That will give it really short runs to the coil. I also mounted the PMU's so you could see the status LED's when you opened the glove box.

Bz2x1SlNSszZZiP4fc7nzj-=w1024-h768-s-no?authuser=1.jpg

Once I got all the mounts made I painted the panel black. I think it should look good behind a black dash. I know the connectors are facing up but I have plugs for the unused connections.

Azyhk6Prt6F9kIUBnQAPM1j=w768-h1024-s-no?authuser=1.jpg

I also got a mount for the AEM CD-7DL dash. I still have to work out how I'm going to make it all work with the factory dash shroud.

NRK1qXHUoT5OyUVWKjNuy0H=w768-h1024-s-no?authuser=1.jpg

I have some ideas but I'm not to worried about it right now. I did look at this dash but not sure about that right now.

http://www.schoneckcomposites.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=61

Since I'm so far behind you would think I would make decisions with the car that would speed up the process you would be wrong. I could just use the harness that was supplied with the Holley drill a hole in the firewall put a nice grommet but why would I make life easy on myself. I decided to get the mil-spec unterminated harness from Modern Racing instead and run mil-spec bulkhead connectors to clean up the firewall. I went to scott rod fab to get one of their firewall panels so I could cover up all the holes I put in the firewall over the years. This also gave me a good place to mount the main engine connectors.

EOt9lGf2fJqFHMAfIhm-uGF=w768-h1024-s-no?authuser=1.jpg

These two will handle all the engine sensors and add on input and outputs I want to run into the engine bay. I also have two other one that will handle all the lights and the other that will handle the high amp draw stuff like the fans and water pump. I have them mounted I'm just working on my documentation right now mapping out where all the pins are going to run. I'm going to start laying out all the runs to the engine this week once I get the lower intake manifold back on the car today.

I should have the stuff I need to start on the body harness this week. I'm hoping to make progress on it once I have the parts. I would like to get that done over the next couple weeks but we will see what happens. Once the body harness is done then I can get started on the engine harness.
 
26
34
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Soddy Daisy, TN
Wow it's been a while. Unfortunately not much has happened with the car it's still in a lot of pieces. I did finally get the Dominator at the end of July. I'm really far behind on the car right now. I should be getting ready to start for the first time but I haven't put any wire back in the car yet. I honestly just ordered the wiring for the lights yesterday. I'm going to miss the Sept 30 event at this point unless a miracle happens. The guys at JBA have offered me a car to run at that event so I will at least get a chance to race. Here's what I have done so far.

I got the Dominator and the PMU's mounted to a plate under the dash. I was going to also mount the ignition box but decided to put that under the hood where the battery would normally go. That will give it really short runs to the coil. I also mounted the PMU's so you could see the status LED's when you opened the glove box.

View attachment 88618

Once I got all the mounts made I painted the panel black. I think it should look good behind a black dash. I know the connectors are facing up but I have plugs for the unused connections.

View attachment 88619

I also got a mount for the AEM CD-7DL dash. I still have to work out how I'm going to make it all work with the factory dash shroud.

View attachment 88620

I have some ideas but I'm not to worried about it right now. I did look at this dash but not sure about that right now.

http://www.schoneckcomposites.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=61

Since I'm so far behind you would think I would make decisions with the car that would speed up the process you would be wrong. I could just use the harness that was supplied with the Holley drill a hole in the firewall put a nice grommet but why would I make life easy on myself. I decided to get the mil-spec unterminated harness from Modern Racing instead and run mil-spec bulkhead connectors to clean up the firewall. I went to scott rod fab to get one of their firewall panels so I could cover up all the holes I put in the firewall over the years. This also gave me a good place to mount the main engine connectors.

View attachment 88621

These two will handle all the engine sensors and add on input and outputs I want to run into the engine bay. I also have two other one that will handle all the lights and the other that will handle the high amp draw stuff like the fans and water pump. I have them mounted I'm just working on my documentation right now mapping out where all the pins are going to run. I'm going to start laying out all the runs to the engine this week once I get the lower intake manifold back on the car today.

I should have the stuff I need to start on the body harness this week. I'm hoping to make progress on it once I have the parts. I would like to get that done over the next couple weeks but we will see what happens. Once the body harness is done then I can get started on the engine harness.
I was wondering how your car was coming along the other day. Thanks for the update even though it's not where you want it to be yet.
 
49
104
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
San Diego
I've been meaning to do an update on the car for some time just haven't gotten around to it. The wiring of the car is still on going and has taken far longer then planned. Between family commitments and changing my mind on things to many times which cost me time. I've definitely learned a lot on this part of the project. I have started the final push to get the car finished. I'm down to a couple minor connections on the body harness and the engine harness. Here's some pictures of the progress on the car.

RZOV8OhDWrs31EJzBkp7Ico=w1024-h768-s-no?authuser=1.jpg

Here's the Can keypad mounting. I had originally planned to mount it on the dash but found this would be the best for access when I have my harnesses on.

pUjL5U8kfX5xY4Th8RvH1rx=w768-h1024-s-no?authuser=1.jpg

Here's a couple pictures of the wiring in the trunk of the car. I had originally planned to use DR-25 on the interior of the car but decided on using expandable braid which worked out really well and cost a lot less.

HQw-JnZfB0PQOJRJSrJslvI=w1024-h768-s-no?authuser=1.jpg

n5pyIVrDNDMc1_6h61APCoU=w768-h1024-s-no?authuser=1.jpg

I also got one of the new Ultra 6AL boxes for the car with the coil to go along with it. The new ignition box is tiny compared to the old versions.

eM7LMQDTO4xzlvlh5fJXOFO=w768-h1024-s-no?authuser=1.jpg

I did however run DR-25 in the engine bay since I felt it would be best. I didn't get any pictures of the headlight harness I built I just have the one of the bulkhead connector.

OwIaDY8J16kICbXD35C6bHa=w768-h1024-s-no?authuser=1.jpg

I wish I had more pictures and better updates but I've been focusing so much on finishing the car I forget to stop and take pictures of everything I'm working on. Like I mentioned I feel like I'm on the home stretch right now. I see the light at the end of the tunnel hopefully it's not a train. I'm hoping to have it started before Christmas. Then tuned and ready for the 2024 season. The plan is to fit in more event's this year I would really like to get more seat time I feel like it was lacking this year. I've been running just not my car. I've been enjoying running the new JBA Dominator GTC-R. They are still developing it and getting ready for a new motor and a complete overhaul. But it's been fun driving it. I did but my wheels and tires on it. I didn't want to mess up their tires since I'm used to ABS brakes and don't worry about lock ups but I had to get used to no ABS in their car.

owfYXrorWeQQIZFq58IkeD5=w768-h1024-s-no?authuser=1.jpg

This weekend I get to drive their whipple powered 2004 Cobra with 600hp so that should be interesting.

I do have other updates coming to the car but haven't taken the time to get into. I bought a set of G-Force Outlaw axles and I'm increasing the rotor size on the front of the car to 14inch to help compensate for the Maximum Motorsports rear IRS brakes I'm adding to the car. I've just held off doing anything with them until the wiring is done.
 
49
104
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
San Diego
Still pushing on finishing up the wiring of the car. I'm finally feel like I'm in the home stretch. I'm finally down to wiring the engine. I say that now since i haven't thought of anything else. I finished up the front body harnesses this weekend. I'm pretty happy with the way they came out.

MabdJzkQhMakf8jOWZ-t2xD=w946-h1261-s-no?authuser=1.jpg

I also finished up wiring the alternator.

OPrTWvNucqVN78_IjH-LhE0=w768-h1024-s-no?authuser=1.jpg

Now it's time to get the Dominator wired. I decided to go with boots over the connectors to clean things up. I'm hoping to have the connections from the Dominator to the firewall bulkhead done this weekend. Then I can start on the engine bay next week.

zmvxGHbuK1FmojHSKw9aMbB=w1024-h768-s-no?authuser=1.jpg

I'm hoping to have it started before the end of the year. I think it's possible but I have been blindsided by things in the past.

Side note I did get to race at the last event of the season which was nice. I got to drive JBA 2003 Cobra.

WUT6_H79PlTd6Ywp1Zta6CL=w1024-h768-s-no?authuser=1.jpg

KsjLP3-Gao6wqun9Zte0ft4=w1280-h960-s-no?authuser=1.jpg

The car has a Griggs SLA in the front and MM bushings in the rear. The car handles great the only issue is the really big Whipple supercharger on the motor. The car puts down 600hp at the tires and the gas pedal is like an on off switch. all you have to do is push the gas pedal that one bit to far and the supercharger comes on really strong. I think on a big track it would probably be fine but when your trying to get on the power out of slow speed corner it's a little much but I had a blast driving it. I should have more updates Sunday night or Monday morning.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,480
8,065
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Still pushing on finishing up the wiring of the car. I'm finally feel like I'm in the home stretch. I'm finally down to wiring the engine. I say that now since i haven't thought of anything else. I finished up the front body harnesses this weekend. I'm pretty happy with the way they came out.

View attachment 91760

I also finished up wiring the alternator.

View attachment 91761

Now it's time to get the Dominator wired. I decided to go with boots over the connectors to clean things up. I'm hoping to have the connections from the Dominator to the firewall bulkhead done this weekend. Then I can start on the engine bay next week.

View attachment 91762

I'm hoping to have it started before the end of the year. I think it's possible but I have been blindsided by things in the past.

Side note I did get to race at the last event of the season which was nice. I got to drive JBA 2003 Cobra.

View attachment 91763

View attachment 91764

The car has a Griggs SLA in the front and MM bushings in the rear. The car handles great the only issue is the really big Whipple supercharger on the motor. The car puts down 600hp at the tires and the gas pedal is like an on off switch. all you have to do is push the gas pedal that one bit to far and the supercharger comes on really strong. I think on a big track it would probably be fine but when your trying to get on the power out of slow speed corner it's a little much but I had a blast driving it. I should have more updates Sunday night or Monday morning.
I had a 700/700 blown stroker 3 valve in mine for a while....way too much motor for this stuff.
Right after this video it got a set of 335 Hoosiers and a wing. LOL.

 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,480
8,065
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
When it comes to Tires the Frankenstang Fabricator's motto is , " Fat is where it's at !! "

It has been a mantra I have also followed for close to 42 years!
My son made this meme when the new tires finally arrived.

18194000_10155238094258535_753043720435997954_n.jpg
 
49
104
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
San Diego
Small update on the car. I got a good portion of the wiring to the bulkhead done this weekend. I finished pinning the rest of the Holley connectors and got them ready to sleeve in DR25.

MSN_EiKvmMSt1H3hspgup3P=w946-h1261-s-no?authuser=1.jpg

I was able to turn it into this.

t6kk408TwHdBVaXVEa8GbSm=w946-h1261-s-no?authuser=1.jpg

y6xtRBTvV1s0MZqHxOqG-Xs=w946-h1261-s-no?authuser=1.jpg

I still need to wire the WBO2 sensors and the bulkhead. The WBO2 will be easy the bulkhead is going to take a lot of work. I'm hoping to have them both wired by Wednesday so I can start wiring the engine.
 

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