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Steering wheel buttons rewire to aftermarket button pad.

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I don’t know anything about the company but just another idea

Also have this 😂.

I didn’t go down this route for a few asinine reasons.

That bracket is mounted to the wheel hub. So it’s not removable with the wheel, but does turn with the wheel. My long legs wanted the extra room to get in and out of the car (one of the reasons I went with a QR wheel).

I only needed the two switch groups. And didn’t like the off balance look of the two right hand mounted switch groups.

Again - asinine I know…..

The cars off to get an E85 tune, and they have a guy who builds restomod cars. I’m gonna have them take a look at it.
 
Ha ha yes!!

Also a bunch of other stuff that came out of the car.

Half cage
Seat delete
Planted Seat bases and wiring
A bunch of other stuff…..
DSC magnaride controller. Running the BJ GT500 tune.
Vorshlag camber plated and BMR handling sap rings.
Darn I just bought my Chromoly half cage from Watson Racing, and their seat delete.

I need that wiring for your seat bases, since I will be going from couches to track seats no airbags in the seats, yes airbags still left in the car, let's chat.
 
Can confirm what others have said - the steering is communicating over the CAN network. As evident by the MMR module, you can remove the buttons and transmit the appropriate codes over CAN to retain the functionality. Would have to use a CAN sniffer to figure out what is being sent to which IDs. Pretty tedious process to document it all. Big reason MMR is charging so much such a cheap part. but that's pretty standard from them.

One of the big reasons I swapped out to a PDM and link ecu. Wish they weren't so expensive - they're like a billion times easier to work with.
 
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Can confirm what others have said - the steering is communicating over the CAN network. As evident by the MMR module, you can remove the buttons and transmit the appropriate codes over CAN to retain the functionality. Would have to use a CAN sniffer to figure out what is being sent to which IDs. Pretty tedious process to document it all. Big reason MMR is charging so much such a cheap part. but that's pretty standard from them.

One of the big reasons I swapped out to a PDM and link ecu. Wish they weren't so expensive - they're like a billion times easier to work with.
It really is quite inconvenient….

Ford should have known we were gonna tear these cars apart. They could have made things easier for us 😂
 
I genuinely agree.
It really is quite inconvenient….

Ford should have known we were gonna tear these cars apart. They could have made things easier for us 😂

Ford encouraged owners of the Mustang to 'get out and race,' but then provided no options to operate the car without the OEM steering wheel or OEM seats. They could very easily create a variety of support mods to eliminate dash lights, navigate menus, and so forth for those that will be turned into race cars. I'm not certain about the other owners' kits, but by Boss kit was filled with 'buy all these 302S / 302R racing parts' flyers. A shut off nanny lights plug and wheel button box would have been great
 
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I wanted to drop an update here for anyone going down this road. There is a way forward on this that is more involved than relocating the button pads, but way less involved than some of the possible routes or suggestions we talked about in the thread.

Last week I had the car at Texas Track Works in Fort Worth. Mason, who is by all accounts their special project guru took a look at it and, came up with a solution which sounds so simple.

After he looked at the wiring diagrams, and tested jumping button contacts with external buttons, he came up with a plan by using the internal PCB’s from the oem button pads.

I’m still using the deconstructed clock spring, rerouted under the dash, but now I have a bracket mounted by the shifter. Wired from the original PCBs from the steering wheel button I have a little joystick as directional buttons and red momentary as the PONY button.

IMG_4003.jpeg
 
I wanted to drop an update here for anyone going down this road. There is a way forward on this that is more involved than relocating the button pads, but way less involved than some of the possible routes or suggestions we talked about in the thread.

Last week I had the car at Texas Track Works in Fort Worth. Mason, who is by all accounts their special project guru took a look at it and, came up with a solution which sounds so simple.

After he looked at the wiring diagrams, and tested jumping button contacts with external buttons, he came up with a plan by using the internal PCB’s from the oem button pads.

I’m still using the deconstructed clock spring, rerouted under the dash, but now I have a bracket mounted by the shifter. Wired from the original PCBs from the steering wheel button I have a little joystick as directional buttons and red momentary as the PONY button.

View attachment 105989

Very cool. Given the S550 is more complex in its buttons, that gives a lot of hope to us S197 guys
 

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