I went with a wavetrac because of how it responds to zero load conditions. I just installed it and have next to zero street or track miles on it. I will have data from vbox and my own impressions in a month.
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Steve - did you read my article?
Torsens allow different wheel speeds inside to out. Often with the inside tire spinning faster than the outside tire since most of the torque is still lost though inside wheel spin if the car has sticky tires and or a stiff rear swaybar.does the Eaton allow the inside and outside wheel to turn at different speeds?
I thought a big advantage of a Torsen/Eaton versus my trac-lok is that the trac-lok, when engaged, forces both rear wheels to turn the same SPEED. Whereas the Torsen/Eaton will distribute (or "bias") torque while simultaneously allowing them to turn DIFFERENT speeds. Is this not correct?
On a related point, I guess I was hoping the Eaton would allow extra torque to be applied to the outside rear wheel in this situation, without requiring the simultaneous "drag" of an inside wheel turning the same speed, and thus help reduce understeer and rotate the car into the corner. Am I hoping for too much?
So just to double check I'm getting it, a Torsen/Eaton never "locks" the left and right sides in any manner, either on braking or acceleration, but instead just moves torque from one side to the other within the limits of the ~ 3:1 ratio and the available traction of the inside tire.
Is that about right?
Do you know if there's a way to remedy the rattle? I have a Torsen T2R in my '11 GT500 that [I'm assuming] rattles when coasting and when going around sweepers. It's driving me nuts to the point that I'm considering putting the stock diff back in! If you, or anybody else, has some suggestions to a remedy, I'M ALL EARS. The rattle gets worse, to a point, as the diff heats up. If it matters, the diff is connected to a Motiv 3.90 ring and pinion. Thanks.My Trac-Loc started getting weak before the end of my first autocross season in the car. I went with the Eaton TrueTrac based on the recommendation of folks here and elsewhere, combined with the cost.
For my use case (2011 Mustang GT in CAM-C, 285 RE71's), it just flat works. Mine does have a light rattle due to gear lash when costing at low speeds, which seems to be hit-or-miss with the Eaton diff. It is not objectionable to me now that I know what it is...
My diff is an Eaton, which is different, but... I've swapped gear oil type and weight chasing a stronger bias. With mine, the oil swap did not make a noticable impact on torque bias or noise.Do you know if there's a way to remedy the rattle? I have a Torsen T2R in my '11 GT500 that [I'm assuming] rattles when coasting and when going around sweepers. It's driving me nuts to the point that I'm considering putting the stock diff back in! If you, or anybody else, has some suggestions to a remedy, I'M ALL EARS. The rattle gets worse, to a point, as the diff heats up. If it matters, the diff is connected to a Motiv 3.90 ring and pinion. Thanks.
I already have a one-piece carbon fiber driveshaft.My diff is an Eaton, which is different, but... I've swapped gear oil type and weight chasing a stronger bias. With mine, the oil swap did not make a noticable impact on torque bias or noise.
In terms of fixing the rattle, I've read that going to a 1-piece driveshaft helped for some folks with the TrueTrac--not sure if that would help you or not.