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Happy to help. Good luck this weekend.
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Great news! The Mustang is back together and the clutch seems to be working better than the previous two, by far. There might still be some air trapped in the clutch slave cylinder, but it's actually pleasant to drive. The clutch action is very smooth, and there's a good bit of travel from where it first begins to grab and where it's solid. It begins to engage about 3 inches off the floor and takes 2-3 inches to completely engage. It's so easy to modulate. The previous two clutches (a McLeod RXT and an Exedy Stage 3) were both ceramic and felt more like on/off switches. Pulling away from a stop or using reverse was an abrupt, chattering mess. This one is nice and smooth. I wonder how well this one will handle the power? I'm going to follow the instructions and go easy for the first 800 miles or so.Happy to help. Good luck this weekend.
The TREMEC fluid is no good for high rpm shifting. I have had much better luck with amsoil. It’s a night and day difference.Great news! The Mustang is back together and the clutch seems to be working better than the previous two, by far. There might still be some air trapped in the clutch slave cylinder, but it's actually pleasant to drive. The clutch action is very smooth, and there's a good bit of travel from where it first begins to grab and where it's solid. It begins to engage about 3 inches off the floor and takes 2-3 inches to completely engage. It's so easy to modulate. The previous two clutches (a McLeod RXT and an Exedy Stage 3) were both ceramic and felt more like on/off switches. Pulling away from a stop or using reverse was an abrupt, chattering mess. This one is nice and smooth. I wonder how well this one will handle the power? I'm going to follow the instructions and go easy for the first 800 miles or so.
Oh, and I used the Tremec fluid this time, because that's what Tremec recommends. Seems to shift very nicely, not notchy at all. But I'm keeping it below 4k RPM, for now.
Thanks everyone, for your help, especially Eric. I would never have gotten to this point without the input from the group.
That damn saleen supercharger makes a TON of heat at high RPMs. When I'm at an HPDE day, I usually shift about 5,500 or so and rarely go to 6,000. Is that below what you would call "high rpm" shifting? I know these days everyone running around with a coyote hitting 7,500... I'm still milking the old school 4.6 3V....The TREMEC fluid is no good for high rpm shifting. I have had much better luck with amsoil. It’s a night and day difference.
Good to hear that you have it back on the road.Great news! The Mustang is back together and the clutch seems to be working better than the previous two, by far. There might still be some air trapped in the clutch slave cylinder, but it's actually pleasant to drive. The clutch action is very smooth, and there's a good bit of travel from where it first begins to grab and where it's solid. It begins to engage about 3 inches off the floor and takes 2-3 inches to completely engage. It's so easy to modulate. The previous two clutches (a McLeod RXT and an Exedy Stage 3) were both ceramic and felt more like on/off switches. Pulling away from a stop or using reverse was an abrupt, chattering mess. This one is nice and smooth. I wonder how well this one will handle the power? I'm going to follow the instructions and go easy for the first 800 miles or so.
Oh, and I used the Tremec fluid this time, because that's what Tremec recommends, now. They keep changing their mind. And the Tremec fluid took 4 months, was on back order... Seems to shift very nicely, not notchy at all. But I'm keeping it below 4k RPM, for now.
Thanks everyone, for your help, especially Eric. I would never have gotten to this point without the input from the group.
I would think you’d be ok at that rpm.That damn saleen supercharger makes a TON of heat at high RPMs. When I'm at an HPDE day, I usually shift about 5,500 or so and rarely go to 6,000. Is that below what you would call "high rpm" shifting? I know these days everyone running around with a coyote hitting 7,500... I'm still milking the old school 4.6 3V....
Wow, that's a really good idea. I'll try it this weekend. Thanks!Dual disk clutches with free floating center plates can be noisy on start up. You can isolate this possibility by temporarily defeating the clutch switch so you can start the car without having to depress the clutch. Now you can easily start the car with clutch engaged or disengaged. If the noise is there regardless of clutch engaged or not, something else is the issue. Lastly, if you try this method make damn sure you put the clutch interlock switch back into operation. These switches can save you from some bad stuff.
I haven't driven mine in a month or so, but I don't remember it making any weird noises at start up. I will get it off the lift and give it a try. I would start with xr7's advice and disable the switch and start it in neutral without depressing the clutch pedal to see if it sounds any different. If it doesn't the starter would be where i would start. I am not sure about the starter on the 4.6 but the starter bolts on the coyote are a pain in the but. You can't see them and have to tighten completely by feel.After some slow driving last evening, I stopped to get gas and when starting the car it made an unusual noise. Almost like one or two spark plugs were removed, or the starter gear was missing a tooth. I'll jack it back up after work and see if something is loose. Maybe I didn't torque all three bolts down that hold the starter? Could there be something inherently different about Mantic dual disk clutch that just sound different at start-up? Hmmmmmm.
If you get a Tick Performance 'Road Race' Magnum XL they seem to all come with a billet front plate with the integrated pump as well. If going to a Magnum XL, using an integrated pump seems like a great way to add a cooler with minimum fuss.Found this and gotta imagine it's a great upgrade!
Hmmm... so that would be around US$2700 in parts plus shipping.Found this and gotta imagine it's a great upgrade! I'm still on the fence about rebuilding my MT-82 and sourcing the good parts from somewhere or just taking the plunge.
T-56 Magnum pump upgrade
This is the OE Tremec Cast Aluminum front cover, not the Bowler Billet Front Cover. This Tremec T56 Magnum internal pump upgrade package comes with the components needed to convert your existing T56 Magnum transmission to operate the same type of pump cooling system used on the factory TR-6060...shop.bowlertransmissions.com
I was cruising through the latest PRI magazine Nov 2023 issue and found this:
View attachment 91021
Do you know if you have to get the 26 spline or 'should' get the 26 spline setup with this straight cut version? Alternately, i think there is a g-force gearbox as well to go 'up' from the tremek.I would love to go for the Calimer XL with dog gears.... but that will have to wait a bit. Getting a quote for parts from Calimer now, and then sit down with a calculator. At least I can sell the one I have if its in working order.