TI heat shield /pad question

[k98dave]

Started using the Ti heat shields with Hawk HP+ pads just for track days. When changing out pads for street I noticed what looks like melted bonding material oozed out between pad and backing plates. Guess this is from heat not escaping to caliper as much. Anyone else ever experience this? Pads still about 70% but not certain if I would want to re use them.

 

[Ewheels]

Your assumption sounds reasonable, but I'm not certain either.

I do know, however, HP+ pads are not suited for track use. I tried those pads myself and they could not handle the heat. I switched to G-Loc R12/R10 pads and they have served me well.

Hope this helps.

 

[byronj]

Picture would help, but it does sound like they could be de-bonding. I donot have any experience with Hawk HP pads but lots of people do say they are not really a good dedicated track pad.

 

[Apex Wheels]

It could the paint or whatever Hawk puts on the back of their pads that always breaks down with even a little heat. I pulled some HP+ out of a friends car and at first it looked like the whole thing was falling apart. Turns out it was just the material they put on the back.

With that said, I'd suggest some higher quality pads for track use, especially if you swap them back and forth. Raybestos ST43 would be a great option.

 

[Coz]

With that said, I'd suggest some higher quality pads for track use, especially if you swap them back and forth. Raybestos ST43 would be a great option.

What is a compatible Raybestos street pad if swapping to an ST4x pad for track days without swapping rotors?

 

[Apex Wheels]

What is a compatible Raybestos street pad if swapping to an ST4x pad for track days without swapping rotors?

Unpopular opinion, but I don't think that's necessary. I feel it's a marketing pitch companies use to get you to buy more sets from them. Good track pads are aggressive enough to clean the rotors by themselves

Check out this video, posted by one of the leaders in the racing brake world:

 

[Coz]

That's not surprising but it also requires re-bedding which can be avoided/minimized with compatible pads. It is very difficult, if not dangerous, to do a full bedding procedure on the street.

Does this work in reverse? As in, can a street pad scrap off race pad material?

 

[JAJ]

Unpopular opinion, but I don't think that's necessary. I feel it's a marketing pitch companies use to get you to buy more sets from them. Good track pads are aggressive enough to clean the rotors by themselves

Check out this video, posted by one of the leaders in the racing brake world:

Hah! I was going to say that and decided that discretion was the better part of valor. My experience over nearly two decades is that race pads clean the rotors down to more or less bare metal in the time it takes to get to and from the track. They take off alien pad material on the way to the track and they take themselves off on the way home. I guess if you drive to the track on street pads and change in the paddock, there might be some mismatch going on. Thing is, the initial bedding of new pads does two things - the first is that it "cures" the pad material so it lasts longer and works better. That has to happen first time out and it's what all the increasingly hard stops and timing is about. The second thing that has to happen is building the layer of pad material on the rotor. That's needed for good brake response, but it's transient on any car that's not riding around in a trailer - it's gone by the time you drive home. It comes back in the first few laps, so, once your pads are seasoned, if you just take it easy for the first half of the first session out, all will be well.

 

[Coz]

Thx. Good to know. I use R12 pads (soon going to R16) but the GS1 street pads are noticeably worse than the PowerStop Z26 street pads I was using.

I change pads at home and there's about a 90 minute drive to either NJMP or Pocono so I'll give it a try.

Luckily I bought slightly used GS1s so it wasn't too much of an investment.

 

[thelostotter]

That's not surprising but it also requires re-bedding which can be avoided/minimized with compatible pads. It is very difficult, if not dangerous, to do a full bedding procedure on the street.

Does this work in reverse? As in, can a street pad scrap off race pad material?

I am swapping between ST45/43 pads and stock without issues.

 

[k98dave]

Started using the Ti heat shields with Hawk HP+ pads just for track days. When changing out pads for street I noticed what looks like melted bonding material oozed out between pad and backing plates. Guess this is from heat not escaping to caliper as much. Anyone else ever experience this? Pads still about 70% but not certain if I would want to re use them.

Well I reused these pads with no issues, turns out the residue I saw was not from the pads, but was the anti squeal grease I applied to the plates,. This HPDE included a 45min session at the end, Hawk HP+ worked great all day. I agree they are not rotor friendly but handled the heat just fine. From what I have read lately here on G-Loc failing will stick the Hawks.