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It was nice knowing your guys.
You can't make statements like this. The oil in that sample was never 30 weight or 20 weight. And to say that the 100ºC viscosity tested means that the HTHS properties are different is just wrong.
Seems like I've had this discussion before.
So do I. There wasn't a Track Pack option in 2011.
Just as an FYI, with apologies to "UnleashedBeast" on another forum for borrowing his picture, here's my UOA data from my 2011 GT Brembo. The first two changes over 10k miles were before I installed a blower, and for the last 15k miles, the engine had a Magnusson TVS2300 and ran about 525RWHP. I daily drove the car and I was doing about 10 track days a year at the time. Over the three years I owned it, each 5K OCI would have between 4 and 8 track days use. The cooling was a Boss 302 oil-water cooler and the stock GT radiator. I changed the oil based on the OLM, not distance or time.
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Great theory, but it's not plausible in a modern Ford engine. Your ECU will detect this kind of problem and you'll have a DTC and a check engine light. Those systems are very sensitive. So if you're not getting a CEL, you don't have this problem.
You can't make statements like this. The oil in that sample was never 30 weight or 20 weight. And to say that the 100ºC viscosity tested means that the HTHS properties are different is just wrong.
To all, remember that Ford is a company with many cogs and not all of their decisions are based on what is best or most optimal from a design standpoint, just like any other company, profitability is at the top of the list, or they would cease to exist.
This is the big question and why I take these engine oil and I'll add engine tune threads with a grain of salt. Everything is fine right up to the moment it's not. "I've used X product and never had a problem." You won't have a problem until you do. Unless you're doing a complete tear down and taking measurements of tolerances and wear you'll never really know how much of a different X oil is over Y (brand or viscosity). I like the engine oil analysis from your own motor as it can tell you a lot of what's going in inside your motor.Also how do you know his Enzo is still running...oil viscosity is directly related to film strength in the bearings regardless.
I changed the oil filler cap.Correct. It was called the "Brake Performance Package". It was largely a Track Pack but it had no Torsen and the engine oil fill cap said 5W20 on it, not 5W50. I had a white one, but it was a fat arsed leather interior loaded luxo barge and I went a totally different direction with my current car.
...and even if the protection that I have on the first day of use wears down by the third day of use to a 40W equivalent, I'd still rather have that first day or two of 'extra' protection. After that third day, I don't worry about how long it's in there for street use (up to a year) and change it for the next track day.
There are proven pressure issues with Gen 1 Coyotes using 40W and having pressure issues on track. I'm sticking with 5W-50 M1, unless somebody produces an actual test that shows the used HTHS going under used 40W HTHS. I suspect it doesn't and that the test will never happen.
If I do change anything based off this current conversation, it might be to use straight 50W or Redline to top off between track days or like I said earlier to change to a 2 track day change interval.
Thanks for everyone keeping this thread on track and being civil. Please make sure it continues that way
I had a Salad for dinner last night.
This is the big question and why I take these engine oil and I'll add engine tune threads with a grain of salt. Everything is fine right up to the moment it's not. "I've used X product and never had a problem." You won't have a problem until you do. Unless you're doing a complete tear down and taking measurements of tolerances and wear you'll never really know how much of a different X oil is over Y (brand or viscosity). I like the engine oil analysis from your own motor as it can tell you a lot of what's going in inside your motor.
I've followed the manufacturers oil recommendations and still blew a motor. I run a mix of 91/100 octane at the track and still blew a motor. shiznit happens on track, be prepared.
I can't imagine running 5w30, 5w40 or 5w50 on track in a coyote is going to cause more damage than 5w20. I change my engine oil after every two track days. Carry on.
There are two pathways for the ECU to detect this kind of problem. First, it'll cause a rich condition on one bank because one cylinder isn't getting enough air to fully burn the fuel that's being injected. Second, the crank position sensor has an algorithm that checks to see if the cylinders are producing the same amount of torque - if one cylinder is producing a smaller torque pulse at the flywheel than the rest, it shows up as a variation in the crank timing. There are several series of DTC's related to this strategy, and a good example is the series of P219x DTC's: "Air/Fuel Ratio Imbalance" which is described as "The air to fuel ratio imbalance torque monitor is designed to detect minimal differences in the air to fuel ratio between cylinders. This DTC sets when the minimal air to fuel ratio difference in cylinder y is greater than a calculated amount." The "x" in the DTC number indicates which cylinder that the imbalance was detected on.ECU can only make decisions based on what sensor information is available. There are no sensors for the lash adjusters. Can you elaborate for me how the ECU will detect abnormal lash? I'm not see how it can infer that information either.
He claims, and I have no reason to doubt him, that before he started running the thinner oil, he requested and received a letter from Ferrari NA authorizing him to run the thinner oil.That's why I suggested that Mr. Ferrari's Enzo is likely no longer running well, or will not be in the near future...
Since Ford covers engine issues when on track under warranty, I blow it up, they buy it. I went out on a limb and assumed that they would recommend an oil which would keep the big parts out of the bottom of the oil pan. So far, its worked, who knew. And please don't assume "What is best or optimal" for you is the same for me. I lean toward having a car start up and run and not deposit large mangled parts in the oil pan. Call me crazy, but that is more important "to me" than squeezing out the very last tenth of a HP. YMMV.