Probably no way to use a stock size but have to cut the radiator support (which I don't really want to do but I don't see a way around it) Radiator is on my short list for the winter. I'm instslling the Ford crate 500hp and building a high compression race only maybe in 650-700hp.

Everything is 100% custom. I figured it out. It is a AN, just cant remember it while writing this. My front kit was for a S197 direct replacement so I figured someone might know the fitting size. Just my front spindle is based on a 1966 with a shortened steering arm, 1970 big snout spindle and...

Fair enough. I have decent experience and am going to try and make a good run in whatever I decide to run in. Already have my eye on a couple cars for scca/nasa Touring and American Iron. Honestly this first build isn't going to be banging heads but I will run it in some events. And BTW it...

2 weekends ago i was in Sonoma. Got to watch SCCA Regionals. Great cars and drivers but I'm going to mess you up when my car gets going.

And every bolt gets hand cranked with my 1948/49 Williams S-5 set and vintage Craftsman wrenches. The Williams was in its original box unopened when I bought it a couple years ago. Oh the days when tools were tools.

Finally the weather was warm enough I could paint. I don't have a garage so my car is in our carport and I live in Utah. Got the front frame rails painted inside and out, wheel well with undercoat and some areas in the engine compartment.Parts are going on!!! Waiting on my new pedals (got the...

Could any of you GT500 owners bet me basic dimensions of the pod. I want to see if it will come close to fitting in my 1965.The pod has the 2 5/8 gauges and I want to have my mechanical oil and brake pressure gauges right there plus one other of course.Face height and width at top, middle...

Not right now. I'll go back and do it after I get everything on and drive it for a while in case I need to take stuff off. I won't be doing any hard at first. Plus I may switch over to the 5x4.75 pattern depending on what I do for my full floater. One I'm looking at uses the C7 Vette rear hubs...

I've got the 4 pot 13" set. You can see them on my build feed. Haven't installed them yet but I wanted a caliper I could slam on all day and these were the best I found for the money. Interested in hearing your experience if you get them. I won't have mine on for another month or 2.

It's not pretty but it worked really good. I put a piece of sheetmetal in there as well. And I rotated each stud to the bigger hole. I'll do up a better one later but this is all the wood I had around. Thanks for the idea.

I'll draw that out see if I can make that work. I'll probably use the 3/4 ply because the wood won't marr the threads like steel. I'm usually good at figuring these things out but this one is stumping me. As if I'm the first to ever have screw in studs. If I make something this weekend I'll post...

Finally getting parts put on my car and a couple things I haven't done before. I have Baer hubs with screw in 1/2 - 20 ARP 3in wheel studs. I have no idea how to torque down the studs to 100lbs. Meaning I can't secure them enough to get them torqued. Tried securing with a vise but don't want to...

Thanks. I already have all of my brake lines and fittings. Everything is stainless steel. It's been a pain finding fittings, had to order Tee blocks from Australia. I got the flare tool from Eastwood and it is smooth on stainless.

Hair under 26. Really going to try and squeeze in a 275/35 R18. I know I may have to massage. Thats ok.

Long story short. The 9" full float rear end I want has a 11 week lead time (Thanks Biden). While I know transmission ratio and engine torque curves are all taken into consideration. I'm trying to narrow down the rear end ratio that comes the closest since I need to buy today to have it 3 months...