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Splined Strut Camber Bolts - Why are they splined

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70
129
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Melbourne Australia
I'm curious as to why the camber adjustment bolts on the strut leg are splined on the Mustang. They aren't on my other cars.
The reason i ask is i had one move a the track on the weekend. Unfortunately couldn't move it back whilst there so had to call it a day.
To me it seems strange that having an interference fit on one side could prevent the bolt from actually clamping the 2 ears of the strut leg. If it stops short even at a minuscule level the other side will pull down but you wont have a good clamp. To make matters worse the 2 flanges on the bolt and nut are both beautifully smooth and apparently slide nicely when enough load is applied. I obviously wasn't manly enough to tighten it sufficiently.
After a brief search here i did find out about the camber locks which was what i had envisioned in my mind as a mechanical lockout. Glad to know they actually exist even though i have no chance of finding them in Australia. Well, probably have a better chance of winning lotto.
Has anyone used non-oem hardware? Has anyone used Nord-lock washers that have a grip surface to prevent loosening and add a friction surface. I figure this side of the suspension should be a set and forget. Adjust for wheel clearance and lock it down. Adjust camber via the camber plates at the top to your hearts content.

Looking forward to an education from you guys with more understanding than me.

1000007475.jpg
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,249
4,237
Santiago, Chile
Camber plates are the best way to go, though I use both camber bolts and plates (for upto -4.5 degrees) . Lots of good options in camber plates! Can you order from Amazon or Ebay?? When you say splined bolts, do you mean like these BMR camber bolts for the S550?

1710771000242.png
 
484
451
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
MD
I'm curious as to why the camber adjustment bolts on the strut leg are splined on the Mustang. They aren't on my other cars.
The reason i ask is i had one move a the track on the weekend. Unfortunately couldn't move it back whilst there so had to call it a day.
To me it seems strange that having an interference fit on one side could prevent the bolt from actually clamping the 2 ears of the strut leg. If it stops short even at a minuscule level the other side will pull down but you wont have a good clamp. To make matters worse the 2 flanges on the bolt and nut are both beautifully smooth and apparently slide nicely when enough load is applied. I obviously wasn't manly enough to tighten it sufficiently.
After a brief search here i did find out about the camber locks which was what i had envisioned in my mind as a mechanical lockout. Glad to know they actually exist even though i have no chance of finding them in Australia. Well, probably have a better chance of winning lotto.
Has anyone used non-oem hardware? Has anyone used Nord-lock washers that have a grip surface to prevent loosening and add a friction surface. I figure this side of the suspension should be a set and forget. Adjust for wheel clearance and lock it down. Adjust camber via the camber plates at the top to your hearts content.

Looking forward to an education from you guys with more understanding than me.

View attachment 93956
So I ordered new strut bolts a few weeks ago and I find out that Ford changed the designed to non splined bolts.

IMG_5211.png
Also for struts with elongated top bolt hole, I designed a camber lock in CAD. There is someone in one of the track FB group who is going to cut them for me. I’m sure you can design something for a local CNC shop to do the same. Prevents movement and just adjust camber from the plates up top
IMG_4982.jpeg
 
70
129
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Melbourne Australia
Camber plates are the best way to go, though I use both camber bolts and plates (for upto -4.5 degrees) . Lots of good options in camber plates! Can you order from Amazon or Ebay?? When you say splined bolts, do you mean like these BMR camber bolts for the S550?

View attachment 93979
Sorry for not being clear, The factory bolts. I can get -5 with my camber plates and slotted top fixing hole. It also means i cant run a big rim and need to dial some back for tyre to spring clearance to run a 305 up front. But as @biggsy has mentioned below the factory appears to have changed to non-splined.
 
70
129
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Melbourne Australia
So I ordered new strut bolts a few weeks ago and I find out that Ford changed the designed to non splined bolts.

View attachment 93984
Also for struts with elongated top bolt hole, I designed a camber lock in CAD. There is someone in one of the track FB group who is going to cut them for me. I’m sure you can design something for a local CNC shop to do the same. Prevents movement and just adjust camber from the plates up top
View attachment 93985
Thanks for that bit of information. Was going to linish the splines down on the origional bolts but was curious if i was missing something from an engineering standpoint. My 944 had modified struts and they came with a factory eccentric washer bolt that adjusted the angle of the spindle. Obviously free to rotate in the hub. Never had an issue with them moving but the car was only 1200kg not 1800kg and a 225 front tyre not a 285.

I'm pretty sure it was your post from like 2022 that i saw the camber locks that confirmed my thoughts. I'll set the strut up to take an 11' rim tyre combo and take some measurements and see about getting some locks made.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,557
5,291
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
To answer your original question.

Splined Strut Camber Bolts - Why are they splined​


With a splined bolt which is pulled in with the nut. If the nut was to come loose the bolt will not move. I learned this while removing the steering knuckle on my wife's Explorer. Remove the nut and all the parts stay in place. The answer, Safety.
 
70
129
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Melbourne Australia
To answer your original question.

Splined Strut Camber Bolts - Why are they splined​


With a splined bolt which is pulled in with the nut. If the nut was to come loose the bolt will not move. I learned this while removing the steering knuckle on my wife's Explorer. Remove the nut and all the parts stay in place. The answer, Safety.
Kind of what i thought, set and forget on a road car. Never to be looked at for a few hundred thousand miles. Also thought it may be an assembly process bonus. Not necessarily best practice but best outcome for a manufacturer. Have it in my industry where engineering goes out the window and parts get overspecified because they are cheaper than the lower spec one. Quantity of scale dictates pricing.
Thanks for the input.
 
484
451
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
MD
Thanks for that bit of information. Was going to linish the splines down on the origional bolts but was curious if i was missing something from an engineering standpoint. My 944 had modified struts and they came with a factory eccentric washer bolt that adjusted the angle of the spindle. Obviously free to rotate in the hub. Never had an issue with them moving but the car was only 1200kg not 1800kg and a 225 front tyre not a 285.

I'm pretty sure it was your post from like 2022 that i saw the camber locks that confirmed my thoughts. I'll set the strut up to take an 11' rim tyre combo and take some measurements and see about getting some locks made.
Yea. I had a shop install camber bolts without my knowledge. The bolt ended up slipping and cause the wheel to make contact with the strut. Left a nice silver ring on the inner barrel of the wheel. So now that I have been traumatized, I won’t rely on friction with the MCS struts I have now.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,249
4,237
Santiago, Chile
My MM camber plates only took me to -2.5 camber, but with BMR bolts top and bottom it increased to a max of -4.5. Never had a camber bolt slip after several years of racing including knocking a rear wheel off a GT4 with my front. That's with 315 rubber.
 
70
129
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Melbourne Australia
My MM camber plates only took me to -2.5 camber, but with BMR bolts top and bottom it increased to a max of -4.5. Never had a camber bolt slip after several years of racing including knocking a rear wheel off a GT4 with my front. That's with 315 rubber.
I take full responsibility for this one coming loose. Didn't want to remove the caliper to loosen and adjust the hub for wheel clearance to the new springs. Went from metric to imperial and the couple of mm clearance i had disappeared. I thought i hadn't budged the nut but obviously managed to do enough before deciding to throw the spacers on which had just arrived from the US. I'd get back to the adjustment so i could run without spacer when i had more time. Well that ruined a day at the track.
I'm going to go down the path of using a solution that doesn't rely on absolute brute force on a single nut. Especially one that is in a crap spot for access.
 
70
129
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Melbourne Australia
@GAR944 just received pictures of the finished camber locks. If you have measurements and pay for shipping the guy who did mine will be willing to make a set for you.
View attachment 94406
View attachment 94405
Thanks for the offer. They look awesome.
I have just finished removing the splines on my bolts and installed Nord-Lock washers.
They do one that's the perfect size. I now don't need to beat the crap out of the bolts and can undo them from the non-caliper side. Even managed to torque them from one side once tightened partially without them spinning so they are definitely grabbing the strut.
Once again thanks for thinking of me and the offer. I may still do this down the track once i get everything how i want settings and spring wise.
2024-04-06 11.35.42.jpeg2024-04-06 11.35.46.jpeg
 

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