I'll give you numbers, but what do you have done to the car?

AAD camber arms, no question. They're inexpensive, look good, work perfectly, have the best design, reduce weight and are made in Nebraska (or something like that). It's not even a discussion in my book.

I find pyrometers to be of limited use. I know I'm going to be hot on the inside and cooler on the outside if I'm even remotely in the window. I mostly look at wear numbers and the actual surface pattern.

TeeLew said:

I'll give you numbers, but what do you have done to the car?

Click to expand...

Steeda Magneride sport progressive lowering springs, adjustable front and rear sway bar, subframe alignment bushings, subframe braces, and camber plates. I have other modifications, but those are the ones pertinent to suspension/chassis.

I am going to be running Continental ExtremeContact Force 295/30/19 square.

blacksheep-1 said:

Little food for thought from Laguna Seca..

View attachment 102679

View attachment 102680

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I'm amazed you aren't losing tyre pressure over the course of a session with that amount of deflection. It actually looks like the tyre is trying to be de beaded rather than just rolling under. Any idea what kind of g force that corner allows them to load up to.

GAR944 said:

I'm amazed you aren't losing tyre pressure over the course of a session with that amount of deflection. It actually looks like the tyre is trying to be de beaded rather than just rolling under. Any idea what kind of g force that corner allows them to load up to.

Click to expand...

Gt4 cars are not instrumented to that degree, but that amount of deflection is pretty common, I first saw in on the S197 platform at Homestead, which is a handful from a tire perspective. At least it was the 68 series tire instead of that crappy little 65 we had last year.

These are at 1.2-1.3G. 2.7 rear camber. Stock camber arms, I pretty much set and forget at 2.5-2.7. Working tire pressure in the mid 30psi range.

Steeda magneride springs 350/1200, bars, A7's

MCS 600/750, Nankang crs 200tw


Camber setting is not hard with the wheels off - I use this long ratcheting wrench and a longacre camber gauge (digital) - measure on the ground, measure on the lift, adjust by desired increment - say add 0.3 degrees on the lift - then re-measure on the ground.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KQ4MEPE?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
But most alignment shops will do it from under the car, on the rack, which is torturous on the driver side, and difficult to make a fine adjustment.

Stan Whitney said:

These are at 1.2-1.3G. 2.7 rear camber. Stock camber arms, I pretty much set and forget at 2.5-2.7. Working tire pressure in the mid 30psi range.

Steeda magneride springs 350/1200, bars, A7's
View attachment 102691
MCS 600/750, Nankang crs 200tw
View attachment 102692

Camber setting is not hard with the wheels off - I use this long ratcheting wrench and a longacre camber gauge (digital) - measure on the ground, measure on the lift, adjust by desired increment - say add 0.3 degrees on the lift - then re-measure on the ground.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KQ4MEPE?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
But most alignment shops will do it from under the car, on the rack, which is torturous on the driver side, and difficult to make a fine adjustment.

Click to expand...

Thank you! That is very helpful. I do the same thing when I am setting the front camber where I measure on the ground, then lift and adjust by the desired change. A couple of questions:

1. What are you running for camber and toe in the front?
2. Do you know how much change in toe there is in the rear for a given camber adjustment?

Front is 3.8-4 degrees, 0 toe. The Rear adds toe out when you increase camber, I run 1/8-1/4" toe in in the rear (using toe plates)

Stan Whitney said:

These are at 1.2-1.3G. 2.7 rear camber. Stock camber arms, I pretty much set and forget at 2.5-2.7. Working tire pressure in the mid 30psi range.

Steeda magneride springs 350/1200, bars, A7's
View attachment 102691
MCS 600/750, Nankang crs 200tw
View attachment 102692

Camber setting is not hard with the wheels off - I use this long ratcheting wrench and a longacre camber gauge (digital) - measure on the ground, measure on the lift, adjust by desired increment - say add 0.3 degrees on the lift - then re-measure on the ground.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KQ4MEPE?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
But most alignment shops will do it from under the car, on the rack, which is torturous on the driver side, and difficult to make a fine adjustment.

Click to expand...

This is a lot of body roll. Do you consider any form of roll center correction ?

bnight said:

This is a lot of body roll. Do you consider any form of roll center correction ?

Click to expand...

Not much available to make the corrections, maybe different front control arms with extended ball joints, but I would be worried about strength and breakage. Nothing for the rear on the market. I use big sway bars, but the car just has a lot of mass at 4k lbs. The lowering of CG is worth the roll center change to me.

Stan Whitney said:

Not much available to make the corrections, maybe different front control arms with extended ball joints, but I would be worried about strength and breakage. Nothing for the rear on the market. I use big sway bars, but the car just has a lot of mass at 4k lbs. The lowering of CG is worth the roll center change to me.

Click to expand...

I fight with the same issue at 1" lower and your car looks to be sitting lower than that. I plan to play with rising it a bit and see how it goes. As the body roll is actually reducing grip from the tires.

JDee said:

BTW, my Dark Horse is at -2.5 factory stock. I don't have plates, it was supposed to come with them but it didn't. I am good with -2.5 for what I'm doing now.

Click to expand...

Is that normal? I have a Dark Horse (with handling package) and have not checked the alignment yet.

Junkyard Dog said:

Is that normal? I have a Dark Horse (with handling package) and have not checked the alignment yet.

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I dunno. I have handling package as well. It's just what it measured at.
For reference, my much modified 2016 was at -4 with Vorshlag plates and cutting the tops of the towers out for clearance.

JDee said:

I dunno. I have handling package as well. It's just what it measured at.
For reference, my much modified 2016 was at -4 with Vorshlag plates and cutting the tops of the towers out for clearance.

Click to expand...

Since I have your attention, and you obviously have more HPDE/Track experience than me - What is your opinion of the Trofeo RS tires for HPDE/Track? I have one whole track day under my belt, LOL, and I thought that they were great, but I have never used any other tire.

The brakes were the thing that impressed me most about my car, but I imagine the Trofeo RS tires had a lot to do with that, too.

Stan Whitney said:

Steeda magneride springs 350/1200, bars, A7's
View attachment 102691
MCS 600/750, Nankang crs 200tw
View attachment 102692

Click to expand...

Point 1: Beautiful car
Point 2: The upper picture setup is absolutely screaming for more front spring rate.
Point3: The lower picture setup looks much better tied together.

Junkyard Dog said:

Since I have your attention, and you obviously have more HPDE/Track experience than me - What is your opinion of the Trofeo RS tires for HPDE/Track? I have one whole track day under my belt, LOL, and I thought that they were great, but I have never used any other tire.

The brakes were the thing that impressed me most about my car, but I imagine the Trofeo RS tires had a lot to do with that, too.

Click to expand...

No idea, haven't run the Trofeos on track and probably never will. They look like a really serious track tire, but I bet they will wear out quickly on track. They only measure at 4/32" new so that's not going to have a long life on track.

krisk said:

I am going to be running Continental ExtremeContact Force 295/30/19 square.

Click to expand...

Two quick questions. You have probably run these 200 tread wear tires by now. What do you think of them?

Second question, what wheels and wheel width?

Since you are running a square setup, can you rotate front to back, or is wheel offset going to prevent that?

Junkyard Dog said:

Two quick questions. You have probably run these 200 tread wear tires by now. What do you think of them?

Second question, what wheels and wheel width?

Since you are running a square setup, can you rotate front to back, or is wheel offset going to prevent that?

Click to expand...

If you have differing wheel offsets = no rotate.
If you have exact same wheel offsets + spacers on the front = rotate

Ewheels said:

If you have differing wheel offsets = no rotate.
If you have exact same wheel offsets + spacers on the front = rotate

Click to expand...

Agreed. That is why I asked him about the offset in addition to the width.