I think at this point the obvious answer is better plates and cutting something

Looked at my Bullitt with steeda plates. Set at -2.5 lots more room, It is lowered though so that may affect the geometry

Lowering increases negative camber. I dropped a 455 inch engine in the bay of my 1983 Oldsmobile Cutlass where a 6 cylinder previously resided, and I think I was instantly at about -10° camber The "diesel" front springs cured that.

My Dark Horse with the handling package is already so low that it causes me issues in many every day sort of locations. I could not imagine lowering it more. It would be undrivable on the street.

Not a good every day driver. You gotta learn to approach any type of angled driveway/ramp at a 45 degree angle

The PP1 Bullitt even lowered has more room on the splitter

Getting ready to jack up looking at camber definitely looks decent at factory specs and you could definitely fit more tire under the opening

Looking at tire wear needs more camber front and rear most likely

Dark horse R camber plates

That’s probably the way to go

TA28 said:

Dark horse R camber plates

View attachment 109390

View attachment 109391

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And look at that custom aluminum welded radiator peeking out from under that black plastic.

I actually have alum radiator 4sale

Suspension dark R

Dang it your making me want to buy the R now i had talked myself out of it

I see the brakes are 4 pot i think it comes with 18” wheels?

I need to see one up close

I'm late to the party, but as far as front camber on a strut suspension is concerned, you can never have enough. This is especially true for slicks. You basically end up running as much as you can without damaging the inner sidewall of the tire. I'd be completely comfortable with more than -4 Deg on track. I think the Challenge cars are limited to -3.5?

Going over about -2.0 on the street hurts wear. Standing them up might give a little U/S, but that's not a bad thing. If you can't hang on a curvy road with any other 'normal' sportscar, that's on you, not the camber.

Gunslinger55 said:

Ahh yes may be maxed out already. Vorshlag uses 3mm spacer min clearance to the strut. Is that the DHR camber plate? Or which one is it? They seem to like -4+ as well

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Sorry, missed your question. Mine are the earlier version that came on the FP350S from 2017. Same concept as the Dark Horse R. Just not as fancy. Watson Racing where clearing out stock and had them on special so i grabbed a set. They were a bargain at the time.

Yes those are nice. The DHR are a bit more expensive that vorshlag but i like the spacer repeatability etc. But i might need new plates. Won’t know till i cut i guess see if i can move them more

right front 16 sessions and 1100 miles. Needs done more camber. Might last another day. Does this bolt on strut adjust camber? Should be splines with a slot? Or no?

Gunslinger55 said:

I just went through this on my Dark Horse. Had to lower the struts to get the set screws out then set it to the track HP specs -2.25 negative. Did 8 sessions on it and wear seems good with recommended air pressure on the trofeos. There is more room to move the struts negative.

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Just seeking an update for whether you managed to get more than -2.25° yet?

Post # 7

"-2.25 is what I got maxed out from the factory plates."

So it looks like the Ford Track Addendum track alignment recommendation is also the maximum.

Odd that Ford would not have built more adjustment into it so long as they were in their adding and adjustable camber plate.

I’m sure if you cut the hole you can get more. It’s pretty maxed out in the factory configuration. I haven’t done anything more yet as it drives pretty good. I really was pushing it a bit last weekend and the outer edges are a bit more worn so sure it could use some more. The car is pretty good though as soon as i figure out how to save/transfer my catalyst info i’ll post some. Had to deal with my warranty issue might check that before you track it too much