Junkyard Dog said:

LOL, I love that whine when you are on the throttle!

But you gotta go easier on the throttle until you get the steering wheel straight, lol.

The braking video was scary. No ABS on this set up? You did a very good job catching the car and keeping anything bad from happening.

So here is a question, if you know yet, how many laps can you get before oil or coolant or CHT gets too hot?

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Yeah I was trying to get on throttle as early as possible that was certainly tough lol. I think I do need the electronic bypass valve for the whipple someone mentioned here. The 11-14 pedal also seems more numb than the 05-09. Maybe its just the tune though I can talk to Joe goodnough. I do also suffer from cave man syndrome of just wanting to push the pedal and over the years I have gotten better its just hard not to want to just hear the freedom pedal lol.

It does have stock ABS which sucks. When I swapped it I lost comms with the module so I bled it the hard way, which wasn't enough I guess. I need an aftermarket system or at least a manual way to do the dealer abs purge. I could also just use my old ecu but that is just as much as a pain. I ordered new wheel speed sensors just incase though too. After I bled it at the track though it was pretty much fine. I've had this problem before when I accidentally get air in the abs.

Anywho temps were tough this weekend it was around 87-92 thurs-sat and 70s on sunday when the sprint was. I could do the whole 15min session fine with it being 70 but could do 2 hot laps when it was hot. I dont have oil temp but 2 oil pressure gauges, one is a fancy Texas instruments one thats connected to my obd2 haltech you can see in the vid. I set upper and lower warnings on all the stuff there. I mostly just come off if I get iat over 145. The other gauge is my old autometer ford gauge thats connected to the tstat side of the oil cooler. Its not as reliable and is hard mounted vs soft but I figured id just leave it.

spectrogrant said:

I think I do need the electronic bypass valve for the whipple someone mentioned here

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That was me. See posts #24-26. You can literally set it up so that it only allows boost with your pedal position, although like I posted, somebody measuring found it allows 100% boost at about 70% throttle, so he just installed an adjustable little rheostat like you could buy at Radioshack and adjusted it until it was 1:1 from pedal position to boost, and boost was only 100% at 100% throttle position. You can find his YouTube video if you look.

You can also use it to limit boost. Let's say oh, no, the temperature is 124° outside today. It is going to be a scorcher, and you want to stay out a little longer. You can just dial the maximum boost down so that it never exceeds 3 psi or 5 psi or whatever you want. The rest gets bled off. It is a really nifty gadget.

spectrogrant said:

I could do the whole 15min session fine with it being 70 but could do 2 hot laps when it was hot. I dont have oil temp but 2 oil pressure gauges, one is a fancy Texas instruments one thats connected to my obd2 haltech you can see in the vid. I set upper and lower warnings on all the stuff there. I mostly just come off if I get iat over 145

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But this was at 14 psi, right?

With two heat exchangers in your set up and maybe down at 7 psi with a larger pulley, I am betting you could find a middle ground where you still have too much horsepower but do not get such a high IAT even in warm weather. Then, once you get that sorted, see how long before coolant temps get too high.

Are you measuring coolant temps?

Do you intend to measure oil temps in the future or is this not important for you?

spectrogrant said:

Before the track day i had the tuner come by and retune the car on the 3.85 griptech pulley(vs 3.75). It wont affect much of anything since timing was so conservative but it runs about 12.5-13 psi of boost vs 14. So should run cooler.

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Oh, a little lower, but, still, even lower would drop those IATs. And I bet you can still get a lot of horsepower.

I forget your compression ratio, but at a lower IAT with a lower boost on E85 you can probably advance the timing some, so the horsepower loss may not be as big of a deal . . . I am just typing my thoughts out loud . . . I'll stop.

Neat car. Neat videos. Thanks for sharing. I enjoyed reading everything so far and watching the videos and will be watching and reading in the future, too.

Junkyard Dog said:

But this was at 14 psi, right?

With two heat exchangers in your set up and maybe down at 7 psi with a larger pulley, I am betting you could find a middle ground where you still have too much horsepower but do not get such a high IAT even in warm weather. Then, once you get that sorted, see how long before coolant temps get too high.

Are you measuring coolant temps?

Do you intend to measure oil temps in the future or is this not important for you?

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Junkyard Dog said:

Oh, a little lower, but, still, even lower would drop those IATs. And I bet you can still get a lot of horsepower.

I forget your compression ratio, but at a lower IAT with a lower boost on E85 you can probably advance the timing some, so the horsepower loss may not be as big of a deal . . . I am just typing my thoughts out loud . . . I'll stop.

Neat car. Neat videos. Thanks for sharing. I enjoyed reading everything so far and watching the videos and will be watching and reading in the future, too.

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If anything the car needs more power in the straights or needs more weight out. Both of which are pretty difficult tasks. I still had k24 turbo miatas pulling on me with my foot to the floor. Ill probably though just keep it at that power level and try to get weight out its just diminishing returns. Joe Goodnough tuned the car. He was the master tuner at VMP for almost a decade before he started his own biz. He tuned Jonathan Blevins car for Optima which is similar to my car except it had a gen3r. Anyway mine is on the 3.85 pulley running 12-13psi. Its what Joe felt comfortable with. Beyond that im no expert on timing etc.

You can see coolant temps on the haltech on the screen. I might get a oil temp gauge but i dunno its usually Iat is what the limiting factor is before any of that unless yall convince me otherwise. Joe mentioned i should have EGT so i might do that instead along with fuel pressure. Which i have but just a manual gauge i really need to remove anyway.

Thanks for the comments and suggestions though. I do like this forum. everyone has been super helpful. I met a few of yall in person at gingerman last year. If anyone has any questions that i could help with let me know and i can document it here or in a vid. On to prep for Road Atlanta.

spectrogrant said:

I still had k24 turbo miatas pulling on me with my foot to the floor.

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It's not Road Atlanta, but it is in Georgia, 800 hp to the wheels with tires slipping on the dyno . . . gets all crooked at 1:20