Been meaning to update this thread with what's happening with the car. I've mainly been working on the brakes. I did the front brake lines over again to simplify them. I still had them running into the car for the ABS module. Since I have no plan at this time to reinstall the ABS module at this time I decided to clean it up. I took out the bulkhead fittings and plugged the holes. I also wanted to add the pressure sensors for the Racecapture system. I put the one for the front brakes on the line running to the driver side caliper. The rear sensor is just before the tee that runs to both rear calipers. My original plan was to run a dual stacked banjo fitting off the master cylinder. Unfortunately I could never get it to seal I would always get a bad leak. So I scraped that ran a single line to a tee then off to both front calipers. Here's the pressure sensor for the front and the rear.





I was fine with everything until my over active brain started to wonder if the is air going to get trapped in the cavity where the sensor is or will it get pushed out. Should I flip it over so the sensor is below? Then also thought what will be the affect of the fluid going from the small tube into a small chamber then back to a small tube will that effect on feel or pressure at the caliper? I also had an idea I could replace the sensor fitting with a tee fitting then mount the pressure sensor to the strut tower with a rubberized P clamp then run a short line from the tee fitting to the pressure sensor all of it pointing up to make sure air got out.

I also finally got the porting done on the upper and lower intake and sent it over to JBA to have them wash it just to make sure it was all cleaned out. I got it back in the car with the new SpeedDoctor alternator bracket.



Another thing I wanted to take care of was removing the MAF sensor from the car. I left it in after I installed the Holley Dominator since i just need an air cleaner. So made a new section and put on a new filter.



The next thing I wanted to do was move my shock reservoir for the passenger side of the car I had it mounted on the strut tower and man that thing would get hot. I think the heat from the header was just roasting it. I tried to put a heat shield on it with no luck. You can see in the picture above I put it right under the air filter. I can still reach it to make adjustments and when ever I change or check the pressure in the canister I remove it anyway.

I still have a few more things before the end of September. The plan is to get it back on the dyno to see if we gained anything from the porting of the intake and the other changes. Plus we still need to work on the idle it still likes to idle hunt from time to time.

Peter92lx said:

I was fine with everything until my over active brain started to wonder if the is air going to get trapped in the cavity where the sensor is or will it get pushed out. Should I flip it over so the sensor is below? Then also thought what will be the affect of the fluid going from the small tube into a small chamber then back to a small tube will that effect on feel or pressure at the caliper? I also had an idea I could replace the sensor fitting with a tee fitting then mount the pressure sensor to the strut tower with a rubberized P clamp then run a short line from the tee fitting to the pressure sensor all of it pointing up to make sure air got out.

Click to expand...

I'll preface that I have not measured hydraulic pressure on a system like car brakes, but I have measured hydraulic systems for work. If you can bleed out the air at the sensor then it wouldn't matter which way it faces. Since this would be difficult to do with how it's configured I would recommend flipping it. As for the pressure reading or your concern with feel, the fluid is not moving up to the sensor then to the caliper. The brake lines are already full of fluid with no air so there isn't flow per se. The brake fluid will pressurize (ie push) all surfaces. You're not adding that much more capacity that it will influence your pedal feel. Hopefully that makes sense.

Peter92lx said:

The next thing I wanted to do was move my shock reservoir for the passenger side of the car I had it mounted on the strut tower and man that thing would get hot. I think the heat from the header was just roasting it. I tried to put a heat shield on it with no luck. You can see in the picture above I put it right under the air filter. I can still reach it to make adjustments and when ever I change or check the pressure in the canister I remove it anyway.

Click to expand...

I mounted my shock reservoir on the shock tower first too and also quickly realized it got really hot from the exhaust. I figured it couldn't be good for a pressurized canister.

I've got a dumb question for both of you (Peter92lx and RinerAuto). How far do the hood vents protrude down into the engine bay? I've got the GT350 center vent in a shopping cart right now, but I'm afraid to click to buy. One is the issue above since I have a 351w based engine and it's tight under the stock hood and the potential curvature difference. I would like to have both of your thoughts since you both have similar vents.

TYancy said:

I've got a dumb question for both of you (Peter92lx and RinerAuto). How far do the hood vents protrude down into the engine bay? I've got the GT350 center vent in a shopping cart right now, but I'm afraid to click to buy. One is the issue above since I have a 351w based engine and it's tight under the stock hood and the potential curvature difference. I would like to have both of your thoughts since you both have similar vents.

Click to expand...

I can check on my vents. I'm not sure how big an opening the gt350 vents are but mine do not go far enough back to interfere with the intake manifold. I did have to clearance my hood to clear the intake manifold and that is with 351 drop engine mounts. Ideally hood vents need to start a couple inches behind the radiator fan.

What type of intake are you running?

My hood vents clear my Holley Systemax intake. I do have my motor shifted back an inch. The only thing that comes a bit close was the strut tower brace. When I get home on Friday I can take some pictures of it.

RinerAuto said:

I can check on my vents. I'm not sure how big an opening the gt350 vents are but mine do not go far enough back to interfere with the intake manifold. I did have to clearance my hood to clear the intake manifold and that is with 351 drop engine mounts. Ideally hood vents need to start a couple inches behind the radiator fan.

What type of intake are you running?

Click to expand...

I've got a Victor Jr. EFI carb-style with a custom elbow. I think the area that I'm most concerned about is right around the distributor / end of the fuel rail. I may lay it out according to the dimensions on the website and see how it looks. It's about 18.5" end to end.

Well it's been a very long time since I did an update to my thread. I've been meaning to update it but just haven't had a chance. Not sure where to start other then the end of last year. I finished out the season strong winning the last 4 SCCA events of the season and taking the CAM-T championship. I was really happy to pull it off I just made the minimum events I need to qualify for points. I won 6 out of the 7 SCCA events I needed so it was a good year. During this time i kept working on getting the motor to stop leaking oil without any luck. I decided at the end of the 2025 season I would pull the motor on the car and completely reseal it. That didn't happen I got a bright idea since the motor would be out why not make it bigger so that is what I'm in the process of doing now. I didn't end up pulling the motor until mid March. I decided to run the first 2 SCCA events of the season and the first 2 Summit Racing AutoX Extreme events.

The Engine

I told myself the next time this engine comes out it's not going back in as a 347. I wanted to see how big I could make it safely. It turns out with a 3.5 stroke Molnar crank and a 4.165 bore you can make a 381 so that's what I'm doing. It's going to have 12:1 compression and I'm going to switch the Holley Systemax intake with a Trickflow Carb style EFI intake with a Wilson throttle body. Since we are building it to rev to 8k I'm switch the car to COP for the ignition. Here's me mocking everything up so I can build the COP harness for the Holley.



Once I got everything measured out I pulled the engine and sent it off to JBA to have them get started. What I should do is add the part where I sell my DART SHP block and to decide the build the new motor with a BMP Aluminum block instead. I figured why not take some weight off the nose of the car also selling my old short block helped pay for the new block. Not entirely but it helped. Before I got the engine pulled JBA brought in a new engine builder to add the ability to do porting and mainly setting up race engines. He started by porting my intake manifold. When I got the engine out he got to work on porting my AFR 205 heads.





Unfortunately it turns out running a hydraulic roller cam with solid roller lifters can sometimes be bad. The cam was holding the exhaust open to long and shutting the valves to fast and it smashed the hell out of the valve seats and burned the exhaust valves. If I hadn't pulled the engine when I did it would have failed sooner rather then later. So we replaced the cam with the right one and the valve train is good for up to 8500 rpms which is above my planned limit of 8k. The hope is the engine should be dyno tested and ready to pick up by May 1. Which should give me 3 weeks to get it back in the car and running. So I can test it on May 24th.

Racing Season

The race season has technically already started. But not really I plan to do something different this year. I really need to make the May 24th event to shakedown the car since I plan to take to Crows landing for the SCCA national tour. I want to get some testing on concrete with the car to see how it handles. My plan is to take the car to SCCA Nationals in Nebraska in September. I've never gone and its something I've always told myself I was going to do one day well this is the year. The plan is to get as much seat time as possible for me and my co-driver that's going with me before the nationals. I need to focus on my consistency leading up to the nationals.

Prepping the Car for Nationals

At the end of the season last year I had already started on making some small changes to the IRS. The adjustment of the camber in the back is a real pain in the ass. I also wanted to see if I could add some more bump travel so I switched to Kenny Brown upper control arms. then I added Mustang Geek camber shims to the upper control arms.





What's nice is I tested a bunch of the shims and recorded how they affected camber and marked the shims. It's made changing the camber really easy. The next thing I needed to work on was the rear brakes. I'm not sure what has been going on with the driver side rear brake but it either doesn't release properly or I don't know what. The driver side rotor is completely worn out as you can see from this picture.



I thought it was the Cobra calipers I used to have on the car but when I switched to the MM IRS big brake kit I had the same issue. I was still using the brake plumbing from when the car had ABS with two individual lines running to the back. The driver side line was a few feet longer then the passenger side. So I decided to remove the two lines and add a single line running to the back of the car and putting a tee at the back. This should work for now but I will change it when I put ABS back in the car at some point in the future.



I'm hoping this change fixes the issue but we will see. Another thing I needed to address is my power steering cooler. I tried adding one of those cylinder style coolers but I never could seem to get it into good air flow. So I decided to swap it out with a Improved Racing cooler and mount it close enough to the radiator so when the fans are running it will get air pulled through it. It's temporary I plan to rebuild the front of the car after nationals.



Not the best but it will do for now. I've had good luck with the Improved coolers so I think it should really help out.

Fender flares and splitter

I've decided after the nationals I'm going to take the rest of the year off so I can work on the front of the car and a couple things in the back. I really don't like how the front of the car looks right now. It does the job but I'm not happy about it. I should have left the fenders alone but I was really sure the tire was going to hit the flares but now I think it would have been fine. I'm currently getting some of the parts together to work on the front end. The plan is to pull the fenders and the front bumper off the car. I want to work on getting the radiator boxed in again and focus more of the air through the radiator and power steering cooler. I also want to add a splitter to the car. I almost have everything planned out I just don't know what I'm going to do with the fenders. Right now I'm looking at 4 options.

Option 1. Just clean up my fenders and add the flares back on like I had them with some modifications to make them clear the tire better. This would be the easiest way to get the fenders looking good. Not really what I want to do to make the flares work I had to cut and push out the flares and the fender which made it distort the fender and cause fitment issues. It also caused my lower air dam to buckle in when I pushed out the sides. I would like the fenders to follow there form without distorting them to make them fit a 315. I want to open up the fender opening front and back to fit the 315.

Option 2. Just get Maier racing fender flares. They should work fine but I know from what I have read they don't fit very well. Then I would have to switch out the rear flares which would be a pain in the ass so not sure this is the best route. Plus I like the look of the Chicane 23 fenders better.

Option 3. Get a set of the Chicane 23 full front fenders that are all fiberglass and modify them to work. It would get me two things that I'm looking for lighter weight then adding the flares to a metal fender and the flare I like the best. Just not sure how much work it would take to make them work. I know people have made them work with 315 but it will take some modifying possibly cutting.

Option 4. Buy a set of fiberglass stock style fenders and add flares to them. It turns out a lot of people make stock style fiberglass fenders for drag racing. This would have the benefit of putting the flare where I want but will still require a lot of modification to work. This might be the best way to get what I want some weight savings and the flare I like back on the car.

I'm mainly focusing on Options 3 and 4 right now since I feel like they are the best but both will require a bit of work. I know option 4 will cost the most. I'm just trying to figure out is it better to start with a fender that already has the flare built into it or add the flare.

That's really it for now once I get the engine back and starting to install it I will post up some more updates.

Peter92lx said:

Well it's been a very long time since I did an update to my thread. I've been meaning to update it but just haven't had a chance. Not sure where to start other then the end of last year. I finished out the season strong winning the last 4 SCCA events of the season and taking the CAM-T championship. I was really happy to pull it off I just made the minimum events I need to qualify for points. I won 6 out of the 7 SCCA events I needed so it was a good year. During this time i kept working on getting the motor to stop leaking oil without any luck. I decided at the end of the 2025 season I would pull the motor on the car and completely reseal it. That didn't happen I got a bright idea since the motor would be out why not make it bigger so that is what I'm in the process of doing now. I didn't end up pulling the motor until mid March. I decided to run the first 2 SCCA events of the season and the first 2 Summit Racing AutoX Extreme events.

The Engine

I told myself the next time this engine comes out it's not going back in as a 347. I wanted to see how big I could make it safely. It turns out with a 3.5 stroke Molnar crank and a 4.165 bore you can make a 381 so that's what I'm doing. It's going to have 12:1 compression and I'm going to switch the Holley Systemax intake with a Trickflow Carb style EFI intake with a Wilson throttle body. Since we are building it to rev to 8k I'm switch the car to COP for the ignition. Here's me mocking everything up so I can build the COP harness for the Holley.

View attachment 109828

Once I got everything measured out I pulled the engine and sent it off to JBA to have them get started. What I should do is add the part where I sell my DART SHP block and to decide the build the new motor with a BMP Aluminum block instead. I figured why not take some weight off the nose of the car also selling my old short block helped pay for the new block. Not entirely but it helped. Before I got the engine pulled JBA brought in a new engine builder to add the ability to do porting and mainly setting up race engines. He started by porting my intake manifold. When I got the engine out he got to work on porting my AFR 205 heads.

View attachment 109829

View attachment 109830

Unfortunately it turns out running a hydraulic roller cam with solid roller lifters can sometimes be bad. The cam was holding the exhaust open to long and shutting the valves to fast and it smashed the hell out of the valve seats and burned the exhaust valves. If I hadn't pulled the engine when I did it would have failed sooner rather then later. So we replaced the cam with the right one and the valve train is good for up to 8500 rpms which is above my planned limit of 8k. The hope is the engine should be dyno tested and ready to pick up by May 1. Which should give me 3 weeks to get it back in the car and running. So I can test it on May 24th.

Racing Season

The race season has technically already started. But not really I plan to do something different this year. I really need to make the May 24th event to shakedown the car since I plan to take to Crows landing for the SCCA national tour. I want to get some testing on concrete with the car to see how it handles. My plan is to take the car to SCCA Nationals in Nebraska in September. I've never gone and its something I've always told myself I was going to do one day well this is the year. The plan is to get as much seat time as possible for me and my co-driver that's going with me before the nationals. I need to focus on my consistency leading up to the nationals.

Prepping the Car for Nationals

At the end of the season last year I had already started on making some small changes to the IRS. The adjustment of the camber in the back is a real pain in the ass. I also wanted to see if I could add some more bump travel so I switched to Kenny Brown upper control arms. then I added Mustang Geek camber shims to the upper control arms.

View attachment 109831

View attachment 109832

What's nice is I tested a bunch of the shims and recorded how they affected camber and marked the shims. It's made changing the camber really easy. The next thing I needed to work on was the rear brakes. I'm not sure what has been going on with the driver side rear brake but it either doesn't release properly or I don't know what. The driver side rotor is completely worn out as you can see from this picture.

View attachment 109833

I thought it was the Cobra calipers I used to have on the car but when I switched to the MM IRS big brake kit I had the same issue. I was still using the brake plumbing from when the car had ABS with two individual lines running to the back. The driver side line was a few feet longer then the passenger side. So I decided to remove the two lines and add a single line running to the back of the car and putting a tee at the back. This should work for now but I will change it when I put ABS back in the car at some point in the future.

View attachment 109834

I'm hoping this change fixes the issue but we will see. Another thing I needed to address is my power steering cooler. I tried adding one of those cylinder style coolers but I never could seem to get it into good air flow. So I decided to swap it out with a Improved Racing cooler and mount it close enough to the radiator so when the fans are running it will get air pulled through it. It's temporary I plan to rebuild the front of the car after nationals.

View attachment 109835

Not the best but it will do for now. I've had good luck with the Improved coolers so I think it should really help out.

Fender flares and splitter

I've decided after the nationals I'm going to take the rest of the year off so I can work on the front of the car and a couple things in the back. I really don't like how the front of the car looks right now. It does the job but I'm not happy about it. I should have left the fenders alone but I was really sure the tire was going to hit the flares but now I think it would have been fine. I'm currently getting some of the parts together to work on the front end. The plan is to pull the fenders and the front bumper off the car. I want to work on getting the radiator boxed in again and focus more of the air through the radiator and power steering cooler. I also want to add a splitter to the car. I almost have everything planned out I just don't know what I'm going to do with the fenders. Right now I'm looking at 4 options.

Option 1. Just clean up my fenders and add the flares back on like I had them with some modifications to make them clear the tire better. This would be the easiest way to get the fenders looking good. Not really what I want to do to make the flares work I had to cut and push out the flares and the fender which made it distort the fender and cause fitment issues. It also caused my lower air dam to buckle in when I pushed out the sides. I would like the fenders to follow there form without distorting them to make them fit a 315. I want to open up the fender opening front and back to fit the 315.

Option 2. Just get Maier racing fender flares. They should work fine but I know from what I have read they don't fit very well. Then I would have to switch out the rear flares which would be a pain in the ass so not sure this is the best route. Plus I like the look of the Chicane 23 fenders better.

Option 3. Get a set of the Chicane 23 full front fenders that are all fiberglass and modify them to work. It would get me two things that I'm looking for lighter weight then adding the flares to a metal fender and the flare I like the best. Just not sure how much work it would take to make them work. I know people have made them work with 315 but it will take some modifying possibly cutting.

Option 4. Buy a set of fiberglass stock style fenders and add flares to them. It turns out a lot of people make stock style fiberglass fenders for drag racing. This would have the benefit of putting the flare where I want but will still require a lot of modification to work. This might be the best way to get what I want some weight savings and the flare I like back on the car.

I'm mainly focusing on Options 3 and 4 right now since I feel like they are the best but both will require a bit of work. I know option 4 will cost the most. I'm just trying to figure out is it better to start with a fender that already has the flare built into it or add the flare.

That's really it for now once I get the engine back and starting to install it I will post up some more updates.

Click to expand...

Congrats! You're killing it. Great writeup too.

The other thing I forgot to add was I had to get a new hood for the car. When I first measured out hood clearance with the intake a Wilson throttle body I would have been fine. But when the intake was being ported Jeff the guy porting it mentioned to get the proper flow I need to add a spacer the taller the better. I added a Wilson 1inch spacer to the setup. That ruined my plan to keep the factory hood. I've never been a fan of cowl induction hoods so hopefully it will grow on my over time.



I went with the Cervinis 2.5 inch cowl induction hood. It was the best I could find that wasn't 3 or 4 inches tall. It should come up to the height of the windshield wipers so I don't think it will really change my view. I will say when I got it out of the box I had to double an triple check the part number because it seemed way taller then 2.5 inch's. I'm planning on adding one of these to the car to get the cool air from the cowl.




I just need to get the engine back in the car so I can figure it out.

While doing research on fiberglass fenders I had an idea when I saw this car running the Maier 1.5 flares.





What if I started with the Maier 1.5 inch fiberglass fenders then put the Chicane 23 flares on them. They cost around the same as stock style fiberglass fenders plus they have the added benefit of already being pushed out a bit on the front and the back for better tire clearance. It sounds like a good idea in my head but that's the same place my bad ideas come from.

Why not go all-out with the Maier 3" fenders?

I do like the look of the Maier fenders - they remind me of the flares on the original (E30) BMW M3.

Dave_W said:

Why not go all-out with the Maier 3" fenders?

I do like the look of the Maier fenders - they remind me of the flares on the original (E30) BMW M3.

Click to expand...

I've thought about putting the Maier 3 inch flares on the car I just like the simple look of the Chicane 23 flare better. Plus I already have the Chicane 23 flares on the back of the car so I could leave the back of the car alone. If I went to the Maier flares I would have to redo the back of the car. I know a lot of people like to bolt on the Maier flares on the back but I would have to glue and blend them to the car since I think it looks better.

Well my co-driver and I are signed up for the Crows landing National tour. The engine is starting to come together. They got the cam installed and the heads are on. It should be on the dyno next Tuesday.





The plan is to break it in with a 850 carb and race gas and make sure the EGT's are where they want them. Then switch the it over to EFI and E85 like it will run in my car are start seeing what power we can make. If all goes well should have the engine back by the end of next week.

It's almost ready for the dyno. The push rods should be in tomorrow so they can get the rockers installed. There going to move it to the dyno stand tonight to get it ready so they can start testing it.





They are going to test it with a carb first on 110 race gas to break it in and make sure the EGT's are where they want to see them. Then switch to holley dominator EFI and tune it for E85.

Just wanted to post up an update the engine ran good on the dyno. They got the rings seated and did some pulls on race gas it made 610hp and 500tq and it kept getting better. The dyno started to surge so they weren't able to take the motor to 8k. With the way it was pulling they think it will top out at 630hp. I'm getting the car back together no so I can get a startup tune done and get to the shop to run it on the rollers to see what it makes at the tire. Hopefully if all goes well it will be on the chassis dyno at the end of the week.



The transmission and exhaust are in the car I still have a few things to do under the car then it's focusing on the engine bay which will have a majority of the work. I did add EGT's to the car for tuning. When we ran it on the engine dyno with EGT's everything looked great all the cylinders were really well balance. It should make more power on E85 then it did on race gas so hopefully we can get a bit more out of it.

I've been wanting to do an update but it's been a made rush to get the car running. I ended up missing last weekends event since the car just wasn't done. I was still having issues getting it to run. I finally went to the Holley forums to see if someone had seen the issue I was having. It turns out I had the cam sync not setup in a way that the sensor setting I had in the software wouldn't work right. I finally got it started but it wasn't running that great that was expected since the tune was for the old engine with some minor changes to get the car to work with the cam and crank sensor. I decided to purchase the Holley SBF crank trigger kit. That really helped the car run much better. I got it running enough to make just make it to my trailer so I could take it to JBA to work on the tune.

I got car to the shop and the tuner noticed the IAC wasn't working properly or something was wrong with it. Turns out the old Holley IAC is wired different then the one GM uses on the LS engines which is in my Wilson throttle body. It wasn't a big deal to move the pins around to make the IAC work properly which made the car idle much better. We got it on the dyno yesterday morning and I started working with the tuner who is in Colorado right now. I worked the dyno while he made the changes. The one addition I'm really glad I made was the EGT sensors that was huge help in getting the car tuned. Being able to see the EGT's for each cylinder helped get the car running great. It was interesting to see the difference between exhaust temp on the longer runners on the manifold vs the shorter runners. Even with the car showing a good AFR you could see that all the cylinders weren't balanced. He was able to tune each cylinder to match each other making the car run really good. We did some full throttle hits with the car but ran into issues with it spinning the tires after 3900 rpm so we had to add 300lb of weight to the back of the car. Based on what we could see since we had issues with the dyno reading the RPM's off the plug wire. Were making a little over 500hp and 450trq at the tire. The car is great from 3000rpm to 7800rpm but at lower speeds part throttle it needs some more work on the tune which is the plan for today. I'll try and remember to get pictures of the car today when I'm at the shop.

The plan now is to take the car to Vegas for the 3rd round of the Summit Racing AutoX extreme event. My plan was to run a local Cal Club SCCA event but they canceled it at the last minute and the only other event local was sold out. This will be the only event I can make before taking the car to Crow's landing next weekend for the SCCA national tour. The car is going to get a lot of laps this weekend between me and my co-driver. He hasn't driven the car in years so he needs to get used to it. Hopefully all goes well since we will have very little time to fix any issues.

Peter92lx said:

I've been wanting to do an update but it's been a made rush to get the car running. I ended up missing last weekends event since the car just wasn't done. I was still having issues getting it to run. I finally went to the Holley forums to see if someone had seen the issue I was having. It turns out I had the cam sync not setup in a way that the sensor setting I had in the software wouldn't work right. I finally got it started but it wasn't running that great that was expected since the tune was for the old engine with some minor changes to get the car to work with the cam and crank sensor. I decided to purchase the Holley SBF crank trigger kit. That really helped the car run much better. I got it running enough to make just make it to my trailer so I could take it to JBA to work on the tune.

I got car to the shop and the tuner noticed the IAC wasn't working properly or something was wrong with it. Turns out the old Holley IAC is wired different then the one GM uses on the LS engines which is in my Wilson throttle body. It wasn't a big deal to move the pins around to make the IAC work properly which made the car idle much better. We got it on the dyno yesterday morning and I started working with the tuner who is in Colorado right now. I worked the dyno while he made the changes. The one addition I'm really glad I made was the EGT sensors that was huge help in getting the car tuned. Being able to see the EGT's for each cylinder helped get the car running great. It was interesting to see the difference between exhaust temp on the longer runners on the manifold vs the shorter runners. Even with the car showing a good AFR you could see that all the cylinders weren't balanced. He was able to tune each cylinder to match each other making the car run really good. We did some full throttle hits with the car but ran into issues with it spinning the tires after 3900 rpm so we had to add 300lb of weight to the back of the car. Based on what we could see since we had issues with the dyno reading the RPM's off the plug wire. Were making a little over 500hp and 450trq at the tire. The car is great from 3000rpm to 7800rpm but at lower speeds part throttle it needs some more work on the tune which is the plan for today. I'll try and remember to get pictures of the car today when I'm at the shop.

The plan now is to take the car to Vegas for the 3rd round of the Summit Racing AutoX extreme event. My plan was to run a local Cal Club SCCA event but they canceled it at the last minute and the only other event local was sold out. This will be the only event I can make before taking the car to Crow's landing next weekend for the SCCA national tour. The car is going to get a lot of laps this weekend between me and my co-driver. He hasn't driven the car in years so he needs to get used to it. Hopefully all goes well since we will have very little time to fix any issues.

Click to expand...

I miss the days when we had a carb and a distributer.

Fabman said:

I miss the days when we had a carb and a distributer.

Click to expand...

That's what the guy who built it said. "Just throw a carb on it and be done."

Peter92lx said:

That's what the guy who built it said. "Just throw a carb on it and be done."

Click to expand...

Don’t get me wrong, I love the performance of the newer tech, I’m just too stupid to deal with it so I’m held hostage having other people deal with it while I make setup choices…..cause that’s something that still makes sense to me.

Peter92lx said:

That's what the guy who built it said. "Just throw a carb on it and be done."

Click to expand...

Used to be a push button start and a toggle switch….no charging system. Simple.