Champale said:

I totally understand. My first new car was a 1998 Mustang GT 5sp and I loved it despite being a slow, sloppy dog. A Cobra with better brakes and some suspension work (and better seats) must be a blast.

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A seat is in the budget for next year, but yes, I thought the Cobra would be a good platform to start with the GT40 bits and better brakes.

Did my first track day on 6/1 with RevMatch at Blackhawk Farms. I had a blast and was just learning. I was not fast by any means, and was not really chasing a time, but just getting comfortable and having fun out there. Trevor was my instructor and was an awesome guy who was driving a SCCA spec mustang. I ran a 1:36.31, the last session of the day. Just need some more power down the road and a better seat!

Your car brings back some great memories. I bought my corbra New in 1995. Put just shy of 110k when I sold it.

1 old racer said:

Your car brings back some great memories. I bought my corbra New in 1995. Put just shy of 110k when I sold it.

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Glad it does! I don't see too many of them out there anymore.

So an update... After the track day I noticed a drip of oil under the car at the back of the motor. So annoyed at this time, as there is not a gasket or seal on this motor that I have not replaced. I went for a spin to see if it continued to drip, or was a one off thing. While driving the car, it felt like there was a misfire. Real weird. The more i drove it, I realized the new clutch was slipping. Now, I will be the first to admit, I did not break it in properly, so it is my own fault. So out comes the transmission to diagnose.

So with the transmission, flywheel, and clutch out of the way, I see the oil leak is from my rear main seal, which is brand new. So I am thinking, I have too much crankcase pressure, or maybe there is scoring on the crank I missed. So I will replace with a crank sleeve and a new seal, just to be safe. To address any crankcase pressure, I deleted the PCV system (from what I read online there is a know issue with these GT40 intakes and their PCV system? idk) and put a MotionRaceworks breather on the passenger side valve cover with a remote filter. The drivers side already has a breather. I was researching new valve covers, but didn't want to shell out the money and go through the trial and error for what will fit under the intake, but I didn't want to cut into the factory cobra stamped covers either. So I bought a set of used 94 mustang gt valve covers to cut up and add the breather to. I checked clearance with the baffle and the rockers and it all checked out.

Clutch issues - I contacted McLeod and sent them pictures of everything and was told that besides not being broken in, the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces were not course enough. They suggested getting the flywheel ground, even though it is brand new, and taking 80 grit sand paper to the pressure place and reinstalling. I asked whether I should upgrade to a more grippier clutch for my application and use, and they said what I have is no problem (Street Pro), so that was a relief. I figured while the transmission was out, I would upgrade if I needed to. They told me to drive it like I stole it after I do the break in.

So I hope to have the transmission back in this weekend. I told my wife my new nickname for this car is hover car, because it spends more time on jack stands then on the ground. I will put the old wheels and tires on it for breaking in the clutch and hope to drive the snot out of it soon.

Went to Fall Ford Fest/Cruise for a Cause Track Day at Blackhawk on 10/1. Thanks to Drew Potts and jchady for turning me onto this event. It was my first time doing an all Ford event and the comradery was great. I made some new friends John and David who were in the blue Mustang next to me and have never been to Blackhawk before. Both of them lost their wives to Leukemia and were out to have fun and support a great cause. Great guys!

I was able to set a new PB at 1:28.96 in my second session. Later in the day I could tell the heat was robbing some power as it was a beautiful 80 degree day. But I was able to run a good number of 1:29s in my last session.

Got home and swapped pads and wheels and noticed I did a number on the PowerStop Track Day pads. They have plenty of pad material left as I used less than 2mm of material for the day, but they are cracked in multiple areas, so I guess time to upgrade to something else next year. Pedal felt fine all day though with the Amsoil Dot 4 Racing brake fluid.

Love this build!

You mentioned that you have the Ford Racing 7 quart pan and a MM k-member. Did you have any clearance/fitment issues with that setup? I’ve also read about issues with that pan and the T-5 transmission. Can you speak to that as well? Thanks!

Thank you and great question! I have no issues with the transmission or k member. The only major issue I ran into was with the sway bar. I am currently running the stock sway bar and noticed it rubbing on the pan on the front passenger corner. To alleviate this, I added Maximum's sway bar relocation kit (MMFSB-51). That moved it forward enough, but you need to space it down even more. I had some scrap metal that I placed between the frame and MM bracket to move it down more and that seemed to do the trick. Adjusting ride height helped too. Next year I am thinking on running the Kenny Brown adjustable front bar and end links. With having a thicker bar, I will need to probably space it down even further. I have my eyes set on Steeda's sway bar space kit (555-8124).

That was my major issue. A couple of minor things, is that I had to bend down a power steering line a bit to clearance the pan. And Maximum wants you to put the steering rack as high as you can go with the aluminum power steering rack bushings. I wasn't able to go to the highest setting, but not a big deal.

Also the pan has a couple of bungs in the pan that I didn't use, so I ordered a couple of -8 AN ORB block off plugs from amazon that worked great.

2ereacher11 said:

Love this build!

You mentioned that you have the Ford Racing 7 quart pan and a MM k-member. Did you have any clearance/fitment issues with that setup? I’ve also read about issues with that pan and the T-5 transmission. Can you speak to that as well? Thanks!

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Thank you and great question! I have no issues with the transmission or k member. The only major issue I ran into was with the sway bar. I am currently running the stock sway bar and noticed it rubbing on the pan on the front passenger corner. To alleviate this, I added Maximum's sway bar relocation kit (MMFSB-51). That moved it forward enough, but you need to space it down even more. I had some scrap metal that I placed between the frame and MM bracket to move it down more and that seemed to do the trick. Adjusting ride height helped too. Next year I am thinking on running the Kenny Brown adjustable front bar and end links. With having a thicker bar, I will need to probably space it down even further. I have my eyes set on Steeda's sway bar space kit (555-8124).

That was my major issue. A couple of minor things, is that I had to bend down a power steering line a bit to clearance the pan. And Maximum wants you to put the steering rack as high as you can go with the aluminum power steering rack bushings. I wasn't able to go to the highest setting, but not a big deal.

Also the pan has a couple of bungs in the pan that I didn't use, so I ordered a couple of -8 AN ORB block off plugs from amazon that worked great.

mrw2442 said:

Thank you and great question! I have no issues with the transmission or k member. The only major issue I ran into was with the sway bar. I am currently running the stock sway bar and noticed it rubbing on the pan on the front passenger corner. To alleviate this, I added Maximum's sway bar relocation kit (MMFSB-51). That moved it forward enough, but you need to space it down even more. I had some scrap metal that I placed between the frame and MM bracket to move it down more and that seemed to do the trick. Adjusting ride height helped too. Next year I am thinking on running the Kenny Brown adjustable front bar and end links. With having a thicker bar, I will need to probably space it down even further. I have my eyes set on Steeda's sway bar space kit (555-8124).

That was my major issue. A couple of minor things, is that I had to bend down a power steering line a bit to clearance the pan. And Maximum wants you to put the steering rack as high as you can go with the aluminum power steering rack bushings. I wasn't able to go to the highest setting, but not a big deal.

Also the pan has a couple of bungs in the pan that I didn't use, so I ordered a couple of -8 AN ORB block off plugs from amazon that worked great.

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Thanks for the quick reply! That pan part number M-6675-DRS302? Just want to make sure we’re on the same page!

2ereacher11 said:

Thanks for the quick reply! That pan part number M-6675-DRS302? Just want to make sure we’re on the same page!

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yep! When I got the pan, I heard others say that the back right rail was sort of bent and they were mad. Mine came the same way and I took some channel locks and bent mine up a bit, but I have had no issues.

Happy Holidays everyone!

Hello and Happy New Year! I was digging back through your build and had some questions about your breather and remote filter setup. Could you elaborate on that and do you have any pictures of your setup? I’m currently looking at doing something similar, but I refuse to cut my OEM Cobra covers and finding covers that fit has been somewhat of a pain. Thanks!

Steven

2ereacher11 said:

Hello and Happy New Year! I was digging back through your build and had some questions about your breather and remote filter setup. Could you elaborate on that and do you have any pictures of your setup? I’m currently looking at doing something similar, but I refuse to cut my OEM Cobra covers and finding covers that fit has been somewhat of a pain. Thanks!

Steven

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Sure thing! Below is a screen shot of my order from Motion Raceworks with the SKU #s on the right. For the remote catch can filter kit, I bought the filter and mount only. There is an optional 3' hose you can buy, but I opted out for that because it was so expensive and I was not sure how much hose I would need and wanted extra. It looks like I bought two filters, but it says in the description "Note: This kit reuses your Motion Catch Can Filter: Click Here for replacement" So then I added the filter from the link. For the valve cover breather you can add the option for a 12 an orb to 12 an adapter, which is what I did.

The second part of my purchase was the kit below from Amazon. This was mostly for the hose and random fittings that would likely come in handy as I was not sure where I was going to mount the filter.

The third thing I bought was some used 94-95 GT valve covers off eBay. Like you, I didn't want to cut my stock breathers.

I checked and don't have any other pictures besides the ones below. The car is in storage right now and don't have quick access to it. I mounted the filter to the coil pack bracket. I did bend the bracket a bit to make sure the filter fit under the strut tower brace. Under the filter, I used one of the 90 degree fittings from the Amazon kit. In the last picture, I got lucky the hole I made in the valve cover didn't interfere with the elbow coming down from the intake, though it could have just been plugged. There is a yellow mark on the header below the breather. This was to mark a spot in between two rockers, so the baffle wouldn't make contact. The baffle is very low profile, I was really pleased. The passenger side has a screw in breather on the stock valve cover.

A couple other misc items... I bought a silicone plug and cap kit from Harbor Freight to cap any openings from the PCV system. One is under the passenger valve cover breather, cold air intake, and one above baffle in last pic. To address the PCV valve itself, I just capped it and then put it back in the intake with some gasket maker to make sure it didn't go anywhere. Mine was always loose. For the fittings under the upper intake, I bought some 3/8 hose at a hardware store and just connected the hose to both fittings to close it off.

Overall, this has been a great set up. Aftermarket valve covers with breathers would have probably been the cheaper route to go, but I didn't want the headache of trial and error with intake interference, possibly needing a intake spacer, to then just have another clearance issue with my hood. I am still considering running a catch can in the future, but this is a great alternative as long as your not running high boost or anything. I hope this helps!

First update of 2026.... Prepping for a track day on 5/31 at Blackhawk Farms. New items for the car this year are a Kenny Brown adjustable front sway bar, KB rear strut tower brace, some spring rubbers, and I will be running G-Loc R12 pads up front.

The Kenny Brown parts are nice units. I like how the bottom of the sway bar has a wider flat section, which gives you better clearance for aftermarket oil pans. The stock sway bar, I had to shim down in order to clear my Ford Racing road race pan. No shimming needed now. The only note I would make on this sway par is that the bushings they send you are for the stock mounts. If you have the offset bracket from Maximum Motorsports, you will need to order 9.5113G from Energy Suspension or equivalent from Prothane. The adjustable end links are nice as well.

The rear shock tower brace is nice, but some clearance will need to be had if you have Maximum's rear coilovers. The cap screw head was rubbing a bit on the coil spring... not a big deal though.

Spring Rubbers - As I considered upgrading my springs for less nose dive, in my research I came across spring rubbers. I was on the fence for the spring upgrade as I didn't want it to be to stiff to drive around on our IL crappy roads. The spring rubbers are considerably cheaper than new springs and figured I would give them a try. I bought Speedway's 3/4" thick spring rubbers for the front and install was easy. Supposedly they are supposed to give me 75# more when compressed. I drilled some holes and zip tied them to the soil spring to stay in place. It did raise my ride height a bit, so I had to adjust that to bring it back down, but otherwise just driving around, you can tell no difference, but when you hit the brakes I can tell the front end is more flat. Overall win win so far.


G-Loc R12s - Decided to run these a try. I am not the most advanced driver, but needed something better than what I had as I started to crack my last pads.

So just need an alignment and double check things and send it...As of now, it is supposed to be 85 and mostly sunny. Nothing beats a beautiful day at the track.