Ok i thought i knew something ing about oil. But have more to learn.

Now that i am focusing more on track than street and have a race car i read my manual and said to use a very specific type of oil. “Joe Gibbs Racing”’now driven. Looking into racing oil i see it’s a whole nother set of issues like everything else.

I was reading here about oil temps etc and was interested to find out thinner oil can reduce oil temps in tight tolerance motors. Also all those fancy non street legal additives can make your engine live longer. And you don’t have to change it as often.

In my new track only car it says a 10-30 JGR racing oil so i got drivens (formerly JGR) synthetic 10-30 racing oil. Seems like thicker would be better in az especially but i’m not too worried the oil is supposed to be one of the “best”

Which made me think about the 5-50 on the coyote. (not a coyote in track car). Assume for the valve train it’s a good deal as i use ford 5/50 like shelby recommends although they are not vudoos

The driven is $24 a quart so it better be good. But i was wondering if in modern engines with tight tolerances if a less super thick oil can actually reduce oil temp by flowing through the bearings faster?

Also i heard from the builder of my race engine that mobil 1 sucks. Thought that was interesting as it breaks down super fast . If you change it a lot then it’s ok

Anyhow lots more to learn here but keeping my engines alive seems like a good idea lots of zinc and additives that the epa doesn’t like but your engine will. I’ll do a search as well as this all
might of been covered previously

Oil advice appreciated

This post comes in a perfect timing.
I might become driven oil distributor.
with one purpose. Get us better pricing to access the best oil
in the market.
(Via our company Speeditaliaracing.com)
Driven oil has been developed together with Jake speed Jr ( the oil geek guy)
What i love is the oil quality but especially they declare the addictive package.
im going between 0w40 (during winter time and for time attack) and 5w50 for hotter months and longer races.
I will also use their "carb "upper cylinders cleaner (especially cause im e85)

Avoid 5w30. It is too thin for what we do.
It is a purpose in case is 90% daily and some hpde.

Feel free to contact me in DM.
Literally finalizing this in these days.

Alessandro

Wow that’s interesting. Awesome! any break on pricing will be appreciated but i’ll likely use some type of it in all my cars now that i learned about it. XP3 is what i got but may change viscosity it but if it’s good for a circle track nascar engine it’s probably good enough for me

keep us informed!

Absolutely.
this is the summary of 2 months of research. I pulished it with AI to avoid italian English mistakes
In particular I wanted to know why driven is better than other things and then compared to AMSOIL


HP-X 5W-50 is purpose-built for hard track use, while Amsoil Signature Series is optimized for long street drain intervals — a strength that's wasted on a car you change oil in every event or two. HP-X's PAO-Ester-Alkylated naphthalene package is tuned for repeated heat-cycling and sustained high-temp film strength rather than mileage longevity, making it the more direct fit for sustained 280°F sessions.
I love also they declare the addictives amount.
Regarding Zinc Content :
HP-X's zinc/phosphorus is tuned for modern roller-cam engines — your Coyote's roller-rocker valvetrain doesn't rely on high ZDDP the way old flat-tappet cams do, so it's already at the right level, not a low one.

This is the oil I will sell
In 2 weight. 5w50 but also
0w40 (for max power time attack coyote NA)

AND I think i might be able to
Sell it for 16$ a piece.

Stay tuned!

Something about the Pennsylvania oil that makes it better as well

flyhalf said:

Absolutely.
this is the summary of 2 months of research. I pulished it with AI to avoid italian English mistakes
In particular I wanted to know why driven is better than other things and then compared to AMSOIL


HP-X 5W-50 is purpose-built for hard track use, while Amsoil Signature Series is optimized for long street drain intervals — a strength that's wasted on a car you change oil in every event or two. HP-X's PAO-based package is tuned for repeated heat-cycling and sustained high-temp film strength rather than mileage longevity, making it the more direct fit for sustained 280°F sessions.
I love also they declare the addictives amount.
Regarding Zinc Content :
HP-X's zinc/phosphorus is tuned for modern roller-cam engines — your Coyote's roller-rocker valvetrain doesn't rely on high ZDDP the way old flat-tappet cams do, so it's already at the right level, not a low one.

This is the oil I will sell
In 2 weight. 5w50 but also
0w40 (for max power time attack coyote NA)

AND I think i might be able to
Sell it for 16$ a piece.

Stay tuned!

Click to expand...

Ale, does this research count for the similar 3.7 V6, or would that be a whole new metric? I know we discussed this whole thing before, but I know you've done a ton more research since then.

I actually did
I believe HP-X 5W-30 is the right one. It's Ford-spec for your engine and it's the same formulation I use, just the right grade for the Cyclone.

a 20 is too thin for track heat, and a 40 is thicker than your motor was designed for.

More important than the oil: temps.
If you're seeing 260°F+, the fix is a cooler and a baffled pan, not heavier oil. That's what actually blows up track V6s."
However If he comes back with temps consistently above 260°F, then the 40-grade conversation is worth having.

Let me know if you are interested so When I place an order I get 12 quarts of 5w30 too.

Noted. I need to add an oil temp gauge to my dash. I believe I never saw over 240*, but that's just speculation off memory. Yes I am interested, what's the price per 5w-30 quart?

240 should be ok for 5w30. But yes a gauge is mandatory. Text me in private later. Still have no pricing but keep U posted

So are you doing full synthetic semi synthetic or conventional oil?

Full synthetic for sure.

Interesting topic as I was just scratching my head about what oil to pursue next since they stopped making the Driven FR50 5w50 marketed as a Coyote specific race oil. Was considering the Mobil 1 5w50 Supercar or just go back to the Motorcraft 5w50. Driven says DT50 10w50 for race applications at $21/quart ! I’m running the GT500 pan and pump so looking at 12 of those golden quarts. The HP-X seems more street focused but please convince me otherwise.

So what are all DH Challenge cars running?

You definitely can run it longer so it’s cheaper in the long run. That’s the consensus

That’s what i’ll switch too after i use all of my mobil 1 and motor craft up

Mjschneidy said:

Interesting topic as I was just scratching my head about what oil to pursue next since they stopped making the Driven FR50 5w50 marketed as a Coyote specific race oil. Was considering the Mobil 1 5w50 Supercar or just go back to the Motorcraft 5w50. Driven says DT50 10w50 for race applications at $21/quart ! I’m running the GT500 pan and pump so looking at 12 of those golden quarts. The HP-X seems more street focused but please convince me otherwise.

So what are all DH Challenge cars running?

Click to expand...

HTHS is what in my opinion counts the most for what I (we) do
HP-X 5W-50 tests 4.77 cP at 150C.
Mobil 1 FS 4.3, Red Line 4.4, Castrol Edge 4.1. Amsoil 4.5

The 3way blend. PAO for thermal stability and VI, ester for polarity and film adhesion, AN for deposit control under sustained heat.

Complete additive package out of the bottle, ZDDP plus moly, full detergent and dispersant load, TBN above 11.(more than anything)

At least these are the "good things " that sold me at the point to be involved.

Dark Horse R cars run Motorcraft 5W-50 per Ford's homologation doc. That's a factory fill street oil with documented shear down toward a 30 weight. You'd be running more oil than Mustang Challenge, anyway.

One note
DT50 is the true FR50 replacement, same additives and base oils, 10W50 and you warming up the car anyway before pushing it.

I can ask DRIVEN OIL more info if you want.

Hope this helps!

You going to carry the DT-50? Also pure race oils like xp3?

I can carry what I like. I will not stock them in big quantity. But if there is a need. Absolutely.
Again. I want to give all the help I can to community. Via oil. Titanium and splitter fast release systems

JGR “Driven” oil in my manual. Interesting how they say it lowers oil temp and 40 hours pretty long time between changes

Gunslinger55 said:

JGR “Driven” oil in my manual. Interesting how they say it lowers oil temp and 40 hours pretty long time between changes

View attachment 111224

Click to expand...

I believe that change interval is meant to be 4 hours of race time. If the motor lives to 40 hours racing, it will not be on the factory fill and original filter.

Interesting if that’s a typo. I’ll inquire. That would be a large difference. 40 seems like a lot. They would be some pretty magical oil

Is the 5w50 safe for catalytic converters?